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Everything posted by kmfoerster

  1. Trip: Mt. Triumph - NE Ridge Trip Date: 09/21/2019 Trip Report: On Saturday @willgovus and I climbed Mt. Triumph's NE Ridge in a day, roughly 16.5 hours c2c. Camped at the trailhead and set the alarm for dark and early. Only two other cars there, possibly camping around Thornton Lakes. Approach went pretty smooth through the brush around the lakes, felt like hiking through a car wash. Took about 4 hours to get to the base of the ramp before the notch at the start of the NE Ridge. The only snow travel was a ~50yd patch after the notch above Thornton Lakes. After that it was walking along mostly dry slabs. We made the mistake of staying little too high initially on the slabs only to get cliffed out, but found a mellow mossy ramp down lower on the slabs. I'd recommend staying low on the slabs until after crossing the big gully in the middle of the cirque. Climbing on the ridge was almost entirely done simuling, with pitched out sections at the cruxes. I thought the rock quality from after the vegetated beginning to the high gulley towards the top to be really good. The rock was damp here and there and keeping the soles of our shoes dry was a challenge. The 5.7 "off width" crack was pretty fun and protected well, even though a bit moist in spots. I imagine other, easier variations exist on the north side. After the high gulley we traversed the south side on heather ledges and scrambled up to the summit. The scrambling near the top it quite loose and nerve wracking and doesn't get any better when having to down climb. If doing this again I would bring the rope up to rappel down this section. It took us about 3 hours from the notch at the base of the ridge to get to the summit. It took about 2 hours to get back down to the notch at the base, mostly rappelling and simuling the lower angle sections of the ridge. Cant remember how many rappels we did exactly, though enough to make me glad we were only a group of two. Some rappels with a 60m rope ended up being just short of the next station which we delt with just by down climbing 5 to 10ft. Reversed the long hike out and got back to the car around 6:30pm. This is easily one of the more amazing ridge climbs I've ever done. This thing is long and delivers the false summit effect a few times along the way. Very happy to sneak in one more big outing before things get even more rainy around here! Gear Notes: Cams .3 to 3, set of nuts, 7 alpine draws and 5 double length runners. 60m rope is fine if you don't mind down climbing a bit of easy 5th to get to the next station a few times. Otherwise, if you have a 70m that's somehow lighter I'd bring that. Approach Notes: Approach shoes, aluminum crampons and a light axe
  2. current song in your head

  3. It was awesome! My buddy and I connected p1,2 and p3,4. I think that's the best way to do it if you're both comfortable at the grade. I wish pitch 5 went on forever, so good! Overall such a quality route. You did a great job with the Vesper routes man. I wouldn't feel too much regret if I were you, that face is just begging to be climbed. I think having more routes on it was just inevitable.
  4. My mistake, my pre-coffee morning brain took your yesterday as Sunday for some reason when you meant Saturday. That just puts the usage into better perspective. I don't think the newer routes on Vesper will have any problem staying clean.
  5. I was out there on Fish and Whistle yesterday and "only" counted 13 climbers on various routes on the face, including my friend and I. That was in the morning before 11 or 12. Not sure when Bronco counted 30. Anyway, it's quite evident that that area specifically is getting a lot of use. The trail was noticeably more beaten in since the last time I was there. Ragged edge and True Grit are becoming/have become mega popular.
  6. Climbing/bouldering near Joseph, Oregon

    I had no idea about this area. Looks awesome!
  7. Yeah I'm far more concerned about physical damage to tubular webbing as it doesn't have a rip-stop weave to it if I remember correctly. So tears and nicks can propagate easily. Sun bleaching comes very quick to nylon. I agree that tat probably gets added way more often than it needs to. I like a nice tidy rap station where you don't have to ask "What the hell is going on here?". Some of the stations on Chimney Rock last year had ten pieces of tat each which is just insanity. Very safe, but insane and an eye sore.
  8. I've got to admit, seeing your stuff from Peru these last two trips has definitely peaked my interest in climbing there.
  9. Trip: Forbidden Peak - East Ridge Direct Trip Date: 07/22/2019 Trip Report: Today my friend and I climbed the East Ridge Direct on Forbidden Peak 10.5 hours car to car. Spent last night at the trail head and started hiking very early. We got up into the upper basin around 4ish. I love how quick that trail shoots you out above the tree line. The approach was very manageable in the dark. We got up to the lone gendarme on the ridge and did a quick sorting of gear. We simul'd just about all of the route, taking turns leading out simul blocks. I thought the climbing and rock quality to be really good. Especially the 5.7 and 5.8 gendarme pitches along with the knife edge traverse section. We summited at 8:30 and stopped to take a few photos and rig the first rappel to get down to the east ledges. You see a lot of rap tat below you along the way while you're climbing but don't pay attention to any of those. I highly recommend doing exactly 5 single rope rappels that trend slightly east straight down from the summit. This puts you in easier terrain on the east ledges. I've seen a lot of talk about the ledges being terrifying and stressful. While I agree that they can be loose and manky, and you definitely don't want to fall, they were way more mellow than I was expecting. Just take your time and look for the occasional cairn. The decent back down from the start of the ridge to the car felt like it went really quick. This is a stellar route on a classic mountain and we had perfect weather to boot. Awesome day! Gear Notes: Single set of cams from .3 to 2", set of stoppers, 4 draws, 7 double length slings. Approach Notes: Light axe, aluminum crampons, and trail runners worked perfect.
  10. Room wanted in Seattle - Sept. 1st

    haha thanks Jason! I should also mention I'm looking for a year lease (or longer if it works out). I'm also pretty handy around the house.
  11. Room wanted in Seattle - Sept. 1st

    I know it's early yet but I'd thought I'd put this up now so people have time to maybe see it. First off my names Karsten and I'm a 29 year old male. I'm looking for a room with a lease starting around September 1st. Somewhere in the north side of the city (north of Lake Union) for commuting reasons. I'm pretty quiet and tend to keep to myself after work when I'm home. I would consider myself a clean and organized person and tend to clean as I go instead of doing a huge clean every now and then if I can help it. I don't smoke, but I don't mind if you do though. I work as an arborist for a private company, full time, Tuesday through Friday. I'm hoping to find a room in a house that has roommates that share similar interests as me. My interests include alpine and rock climbing, cycling, skiing and running. Also as a hobby, I make gear such as packs and other various kinds of bags. I would need space for my ski stuff (just one setup) and two bikes, the rest of my belongings could probably fit in the room just fine. An appreciation for art, music, and creativity are important to me. Thanks for taking the time to read this and feel free to contact me directly if need be.
  12. Trip: Mt. Baker - North Ridge Trip Date: 06/01/2019 Trip Report: Yesterday my friend and I climbed the north ridge of Mt. Baker in an 11 hour single push. Camped at the trail head Friday night and managed to maybe get 1.5 hours of sleep. Other cars we coming and going all hours of the night. Woke up at 2am and started hiking up shortly after. The trail has some snow up high as you near the tree line, but is either compact or firm if you go in the morning. Stream crossings were easy. We skinned from just above the tree line to just before the base of the north ridge. We did not rope up for the glacier travel as the snow was very solid. We started booting once we had to cross a narrow but solid snow bridge. We took the broad gully up to the base of the ice cliff and took a AI3/3+ pitch to gain the upper ridge. From there the conditions were very cruiser (AI2 and steep to moderate snow) and in no time were were at the summit. we stopped to eat, repack some things and get ready for the ski down. The upper section of the CD route was firm and didn't end up skiing much of that, switched back to booting after a bit. Started skiing again at the col between Baker and Colfax. Great skiing conditions from there back to the trail. Crevasses on the CD were very easy to navigate through/avoid as you just had to follow the bootpack. Gear Notes: Two pickets (used one) and six screws 2x16cm and 4x13cm Approach Notes: heliotrope ridge trail
  13. [TR] Mt. Baker - North Ridge 06/01/2019

    Didn't see any other major icefall. I don't think there was any debris over the bootpack/up track at any point. The one in my last photo the debris was still pretty far from the up track at its closest point, maybe somewhere around 50yds away?
  14. That trail is a quad blaster for sure.
  15. Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir Trip Date: 05/05/2019 Trip Report: My friend and I Climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir on Sunday. Rode bikes up to the trail head. Theres just a 100' long patch of snow near the trailhead now. Hiked in early and the approach wasn't terrible booting. Followed the summer approach trail. Plenty of cairns to go off of when the going gets snowy. Camped at 5400' and woke up early Sunday morning. The snow on the way up to the couloir was firm enough that just your crampon points would sink in. The rest of the snow on the route stayed consistently firm as well. The bergschrund was easily crossed via bridges on climbers right. The constriction in the couloir was in great shape with thick ice. Mostly 60 degrees with a couple short vertical/near vertical bulges. Got to the west ridge notch around 7am and started working our way along the west ridge. On the ridge the ledges and gullies were snowy. The rock on route was mostly bare with patches of ice and ice in the cracks. I thought this made for interesting climbing as you would need your tools for a bit and then want to stow your gloves and tools for some sections. Really fun climbing on the the north side traverse pitch and the following twin cracks pitch out of the tiny notch. This was a fun outing on an awesome route. I thought the climbing was easier but more fun than what we encountered on triple couloirs this year. In these conditions I'd give the route a WI2/M3+/5.6 rating. Gear Notes: cams to 2", assortments of pins, set of stoppers, 2 13cm ice screws, a picket (dead weight as usual, snow was conducive to vertically placed pickets but there was other pro available) Approach Notes: Road is still gated at Bridge Creek campground. Bikes for the road. Booted in and out. Approach was way less miserable on the way in.
  16. for sale Trango Cube GTX

    Are they still for sale? Are they The newer red ones?
  17. Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple couloirs Trip Date: 03/31/2019 Trip Report: This last weekend a friend and I climbed TC's on Dragontail peak over two days. Ski'd in to and out of Colchuck Lake on the approach, continuous snow coverage on the road in the first day but on the way out on the second day there were several patches of bare road about 20-30' long. The trail was very firm, packed snow. got to the lake around 1pm the first day and just hung out as we were going to get an early start the next day. There was another group of two coming in about the same time we were to climb TC's as well. We got up at 2am the next day and did the morning routine and started to head up to the base of the route. The ice on the step up to the hidden couloir is in good shape and was very enjoyable. We made our way up to the base of the runnels in the dark and the first pitch had great coverage. Not super thick ice but enough to be secure climbing, couldn't put a screw in it or anything though. We ended up bailing off the runnels as the following options proved to be too thin for us. We then rapped down and opted for the runnels bypass, which was a mix of snice and sugar snow on slab requiring some excavating for dry tooling in spots. Rapped into just below the second couloir from there and climbed up the mixed chimney which I thought was really fun. Good sticks in thin ice and stemming. The pitch between the second and third couloir was in not great shape as it was sugar snow over slab. I chose to keep to climbers left as it offered more placements for dry tooling and protection. This turned out to be quite loose in places (very sorry to the party below us!) and steep. The third couloir was very straightforward with no complications. We either simul soloed or simul'ed the couloirs as they were very wind firmed dry snow and made for solid steps. The way back down through Asgard was pockets of loose dry over wind firmed snow. I was told by another friend who met us there on the second day (he was skiing) that the Colchuck Glacier was about the same. Glad we got a decent weather window that actually turned out to be better than expected. Just intermittent clouds the whole time. This was a really fun climb! Gear Notes: -Cams .3 to 1 -Half set of nuts -4 tri cams -2x 10cm and 2x 13cm screws (didn't use any) -A bunch of pins, mostly knife blades and one small angle, as I knew the snow wouldn't take a picket. Definitely proved the most useful along with small stoppers. Approach Notes: Still a bunch of snow on the road but it feels like its melting out fast. Was surprised how much bare road there was on the way out. The trail is packed and bootable in the morning but in the later part of the day post holing is pretty common. Same goes for the road too. I was glad to have skis as it expedites a lot of the travel on the way out.
  18. [TR] Alpine Lakes - NBC - Colchuck Peak 01/28/2019

    Heres some photos. Was in the party attempting trip c's. Very thin ice in runnels and bypass, not really a huge shocker this time of year I suppose. The snow coverage for this area seemed less than previous years around the same time also. Wanted to see if the bypass or variation via the NW face would go this time of year at a moderate difficulty. Ice down low was good and the snow was mostly firm enough to be securely climbed. Some really interesting mixed steps to get to the NW face were encountered. I'll probably be back in the spring but most of the point of this trip was to try and sneak it in before everyone and there mom climbs it.