Price Glacier on Mt Shuksan

[PellucidWombat]

Hey everyone, I'm currently living in Denver and maybe flying in to the area for a Labor Day Weekend climb. Does anyone have a sense of what conditions are like right now on the Price Glacier based on how last winter & this summer have been? 

I'm aware that it melts out to where it is unclimbable, and tough to catch in condition, so just checking our odds on that. I lead up to bits of WI4, done things like Liberty Ridge & Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier, N Ridge of Baker, N Face glacier route on Adams when it was very melted out (fun serac climbing) and my partner is solid into WI5 and has been active in the PNW since he moved out at the end of last season. I lead up to M3, and my partner probably to M5 or M6.

[genepires]

no idea but good luck climbing it or even getting a condition report from someone.  I think very few people go out there.  maybe someone will have a photo from ruth tho.

 

 

[Rad]

I can't comment on that glacier, but based on observations of glaciers in the Forbidden/Sahale/Eldorado zome a bit further South - and phtos from the Pickets a bit further East, I would say you should expect seasonal snow is almost all gone and there will be bare glacial ice to contend with. FWIW, the Price glacier is one that most people stay away from due to the objective hazards of falling seracs. That's not my cup of tea, so perhaps others will have comments to add.

[Kameron]

I could see it from Goat more than a month ago now (ski trip), and it already looked pretty messed up. But I'm not hardcore.

[dave schultz]

my TR from 2014.  The technical skill you describe is certainly adequate, the real challenge is the route finding, and general big-mountain problem set and problem solving.

 

Compared to LR on Rainier, NR of Baker, and NF of Hood - I thought Price Glacier was larger (order(s) of magnitude) and more complicated objective. Technical ice and rock, shitty ice and rock, huge route, NO good beta, route advice, etc ... its truely a big and spectacular route. Very far out there, you'll feel like your on a different planet.

 

I'd 100% do it again, and really enjoyed the mid- to late-season conditions we found in 2014.

 

Enjoy, its a route youll never forget.

 

 

[bargainhunter]

1st problem to solve: the log is currently out over the Nooksack near Price Creek. With the heat, the Nooksack may be flowing briskly.

[JasonG]

8 hours ago, bargainhunter said:

the log is currently out over the Nooksack near Price Creek.

Yikes.  I remember that it didn't inspire confidence even about 10 years ago.  A silvery exterior with nugat center!

[Choada_Boy]

My impressions, from the summit of Ruth, on August 22:

Death.

Good luck with that!!

[robertm]

I was on Nooksack a few years back and there was a party of two that had just finished Price at around 2PM.  They didn't know it but not five minutes after they got off the face the shrund broke and collapsed down the entire glacier to the lake below.  It swept the entire thing and resulted in a small tsunami in the lake.   It would have been pretty bad news for any one on that face.   Lesson would be to climb it in cold / dark conditions.  It sees a fair amount of sun.

[PellucidWombat]

On 8/27/2022 at 12:35 PM, Kameron said:

I could see it from Goat more than a month ago now (ski trip), and it already looked pretty messed up. But I'm not hardcore.

Turned out to be pretty messed up. Nothing aiding on ice screws couldn't fix. Log crossing was also out. 2 rock runnels were VERY active. Still managed to get up it even though a bit late...

Amazing climbing! But not one to repeat as I want to live a bit longer...

[PellucidWombat]

On 8/28/2022 at 11:17 AM, bargainhunter said:

1st problem to solve: the log is currently out over the Nooksack near Price Creek. With the heat, the Nooksack may be flowing briskly.

With some bushwhacking, I found another log crossing about 0.5-1 mile upstream. For those that want to know, follow the trail after the old turnoff until the next gully crossing, and bushwhack down to the river from there. Chances are the crossing is a short bit upstream from where you hit the river. 

[PellucidWombat]

In case anyone wants to see some pics

 

[JasonG]

Yikes!  Post up a TR please!!!

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Cool, yea TR please!

[DPS]

This brings back memories. Or rather, nightmares. 

[PellucidWombat]

On 4/18/2023 at 11:51 AM, OlympicMtnBoy said:

Cool, yea TR please!

Maaaaybe. I'll check with my partner from that climb to see if he minds. It was a bit of an epic, so you know how that can go with tell-all reports 🤣

[JasonG]

That could be a really good TR!

[JasonG]

Also, I just noticed how gnarly that 'schrund is getting on Nooksack Tower.  No wonder I haven't seen a TR in a bit for that.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

On 4/24/2023 at 2:37 PM, PellucidWombat said:

Maaaaybe. I'll check with my partner from that climb to see if he minds. It was a bit of an epic, so you know how that can go with tell-all reports 🤣

No one wants to read a TR about how badass you are and everything went even better than planned!  I submit my own TRs as evidence.  😝

[Lostbolt]

Excellent job, would also enjoy reading a trip report on it. Looks like quite the route finding challenge and the timing needs to be spot on.

 

Did you find the pro placement sufficient or was everything rotted out?

[seth holton]

not sure if these can help you for summer but these were taken on two separate trips this winter. 
Have fun!

[JasonG]

I want to see the TR from the photos that got those up close shots of the Price in winter @seth holton!

[seth holton]

Hah,

no trip report but annual trip down into the hole to see if the cruxes go. 

[PellucidWombat]

OK, took what I wrote up last fall w/ pics on random Facebook posts, spliced together on here. Enjoy! Long read, many pics.

 

[Choada_Boy]

GNARLY!!! Sounds like a Near-Life Experience.