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bargainhunter

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bargainhunter last won the day on January 14

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About bargainhunter

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  • Birthday 01/25/1969
  1. [TR] Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 10/03/2020

    "Going up and down the icy sections without a backup required total focus and perfection" So true! I hit it solo back in mid-August, and an icy Winnie's definitely gave me pause. Strangely, I had the entire summit pyramid to myself. When you are back at the trailhead, it's cool that you can see both Winnie's and Hell's Highway from parking lot,. Before I climbed it, Shuksan's complexity made it hard to figure out where the route actually went. What an awesome mountain. I look forward to doing some of the North Face routes and of course Nooksak Ridge/Tower and Jagged Ridge too. Looking down on the Hanging glacier from the summit was wild! Descending the route in a whiteout/storm/darkness would be epic!
  2. You can get a 70”x20” pad like that from Sierra Trading Post with free shipping to their store for $7/ea and they weigh 234g. https://www.sierra.com/trespass-radix-sleeping-pad-70x20-rectangular~p~443fm/ The gossamer gear ones cost $32 PLUS $20 just for shipping alone for a single pad, and it’s 1” narrower and 11” shorter. F that.
  3. [TR] Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 08/09/2020

    Thanks for the beta! With your trip report (and reading over ALL of the older ones on CC) I was able to climb it confidently solo on Friday 8/14/20. Winnies slide almost shut me down. The ice halfway up gave me serious pause. Bad runout into rocks. I had perfect conditions but easily see how one can epic on several of the sections. Crevasses, falls, bad weather (wind/white out on the sulphide summit plateau) and I sure as hell wouldn’t want to try to descend down the Chimneys in the dark or in rain. It would be easy to loose the trail over the talus patches on the way back to Lake Ann from the base of the Chimneys at night as well. Full value strenuous day. Knowing about the glacial run off at the upper Curtis was great for hydration. There were snowmelt drips even on the summit pyramid, which is a lot bigger/longer than I thought. Glad I took steel crampons (Grivel G12s) on my Scarpa Rebel carbons instead of aluminum crampons. Camp Corsa axe did the job but two Quarks would have been more secure on Winnies and Hell’s highway. If I had had a rope I might have rapped it. The boot track from previous parties made navigation a no brainer and relieved a lot of stress (thank you!) , but the track had faded when I descended in the afternoon. Wands or GPS breadcrumbs would be useful if it’s misty/low viz. Crevasses were visible and bridges were solid, but I would have turned back immediately if I felt sketched about the solidity of the lips/bridges. Also, the moats by the rocks can be treacherous. I had been wanting to do this route for 30+ years. Definitely a satisfying mountaineering goal! Beckey described it as torturous. I’d call it extreme walking. Classic!
  4. What’s this buttress called? Routes? Topos? Beta? It’s on the opposite side of Ruth Creek from Mamie Peak. It descends off of the north side of Nooksack Ridge between Ruth and Sefrit (not the similarly named Nooksack Ridge which is nearby between Nooksack Tower and Shuksan’s summit).
  5. DIY Altitude Training , does it work??

    Might be simpler/cheaper to put a plastic bag over your head and rubber band it around you neck. If you can do 50 laps on Chair Peak in winter without removing it, wearing only running shoes and a wife beater, then you may be ready for the Kukuczka line on K2. Just don't buy your rope used in a Katmandu bazaar.
  6. wanted to buy Anyone selling: mountain hardwear direkt 2

    Such a good tent for its intended purpose. It’s a shame they discontinued it.
  7. You have good taste. That is my favorite fleece hoody. When I saw they were discontinuing it, I drove from Bishop to their Reno outlet to buy their last one in stock. It's a great cut for alpine bods, long in the waist to tuck in for extra warmth in the low back, full overage hoody which even when not pulled over the head really keeps your neck warm when fully zipped up. Breathes well. The large fits my 6'2" 170lb frame perfectly. I own two of them and would buy another few if I could. It's the one go-to layer that I always seem to take climbing, backpacking, skiing, and for house/urban wear when temps demand it, as it's great alone or in combo with other layers/shells. The warmth/weight/durability ratio is better than any of my other backcountry wear. Used prices for them are ridiculous, as I paid less for new ones at the Patagonia Outlet back in the day. Perhaps I need to visit their store to try on newer equivalents like the R1, etc.?
  8. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    I hardly think posting beta from a 48 year old guidebook is going to "insta-wreck" anything, especially because the "masses" arriving at the trailhead will be confronted with a thigh deep creek right at the parking lot. Then, if they look for an easier way across, and have the gumption to walk through brush a hundred yards upstream or downstream, the ice-covered log jams spanning the river may also give them pause. If they make it across, the 1 mile approach trail described in "101 Hikes..." is actually now 4 miles due to the Ruth Creek washout. That's just to reach the gravel bar of the Nooksack. To get to the cirque itself, it's another 5 miles of walking on riverbed boulders and crossing tributaries, with occasional bushwacks at points where the river forces you back in the forest (with temps dipping into the low 20sF in the fall permashade). The place is often described as "seldom visited" because the masses are, in general, too hardship adverse, lazy, and phone dependent. If the hoi polloi make it to the cirque itself, they aren't going to stumble through mossy boulderfields and alder thickets to find a specific overhanging boulder. The Trog isn't that obvious, one has to actively look for it. The "summit register" in the Trog was weathered and looked like it had been there a few years. The plastic bag which contained it was riddled with rodent nibbles and writhing with Hanta virions. There was only one name in it: mine, because I had just signed it. I'll go back to re-check it in 5-10 years and if it's overflowing with visitors, you will have proved me wrong and I'll delete this post and never mention the area again. Average Joes just aren't going to go there, while mountaineering masochist like you and me embrace this type of approach. Meanwhile, back on topic, yesterday I took a late afternoon stroll up the Hannegan Pass trail. Near Silesia Camp, after walking in snow for several miles in lowtop approach shoes, I caught a nice view of Shuksan from the northeast in twilight, already gripped in a wintery embrace. Shuksan, Price Glacier, Nooksack Tower and ridge from the Copper Ridge Trail west of Silesia camp 11/8/19:Damn! Further east was a impressive view of the north face of Mt. Blum, the most prominent peak between Shuksan and the Pickets. Mt Blum's north ridge (5.9, III) was first climbed in 1971, a year after Spring and Manning's "101 Hikes in the North Cascades" was first published. Mt Blum, from the north: I turned back at this point because it was dark and I was losing the trail in the snow. My planned turn around point at the Copper Ridge lookout was still 2 miles away. The perennial debate of sharing info vs keeping quiet even created tension for Manning and Spring. An interesting discussion of that can be found here: https://www.historylink.org/File/9381 So who is going to post a TR of their ascent of Sulphide Creek Falls?
  9. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    From Spring and Manning’s “101 Hikes in the North Cascades”, early 1970’s edition: PS: There were no crowds. I was the only one in the whole valley. Only my car at the trailhead.
  10. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Nooksack Cirque had endless possibilities last week for the adventurous, intrepid mixed master who doesn't mind significant objective risk. Pics taken on 10/31/19: View from the Trog: At the base: A buttress on Jagged Ridge: Seahpo/Cloudcap:
  11. Sea to Sky Gondola closed due to vandalism

    https://vancouversun.com/news/local-news/sea-to-sky-gondola-sabotaged-concludes-report
  12. Stunning photos of mountain grandeur. Thank you for sharing. Our ice is disappearing. Rainier may be an iceless slag pile in my lifetime. Sobering. This article from the Seattle Times yesterday shows some dramatic melting of the Bering Sea far more than I would have expected so soon. Bottom temps 12F (!) higher than 9 years ago!
  13. [TR] Colonial Peak - Watusi Rodeo 2/23/2015

    As someone alluded to above, Colin Haley and Mark Bunker climbed it in 2009. Here's the TR: http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2009/01/watusi-rodeo.html Returning home from rock climbing at the Pass yesterday, we stopped at Diablo Dam. The view of northern aspect of Pyramid Peak nearby was impressive. Colonial Peak is out of view to the left of Pyramid, hidden by the forested ridge.
  14. question Another Approach shoes and crampon thread

    My set up for these situations is a pair of Scarpa Zens with strap-on Black Diamond Nevés, and a Camp Corsa axe. I hardly notice the weight.
  15. [TR] Mt. Shuksan - Price Glacier 08/04/2018

    Shabash! Fucking stellar lads! Thanks for posting up!
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