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bargainhunter

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bargainhunter last won the day on January 14 2020

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About bargainhunter

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  • Birthday 01/25/1969
  1. Plane crash on Kautz Glacier?

    Old school mountaineers have used aluminum conduit tubing (like what TMO described above) for snow stakes and cheap leave-behind rap anchors.
  2. Whatever happened to Dan Helmstadter?

    Chad wouldn't have cared less about that childish, ridiculous drama. If you doubt someone's achievement, then best them with your own record. Still waiting... Meanwhile back to Helmstadter. Legend. PS: That Powder article by Dave Page was a great piece of writing and really captures the spirit. There is an interview with him here: https://www.powder.com/powder-radio/the-storytellers-david-page/
  3. Kid carrying packs

    I cannot recommend the Deuter Kid Comfort II Carrier more highly! [This is for toddlers and up though. For a newborn you'll want a chest sling/papoose.] The Deuter was incredible and durable and really well designed. It handles heavy weight (whiney kids too lazy to walk) with well-thought-out straps, waist belt, load adjustments with plenty of pockets etc for diapers, blankets, Scooby snacks etc. Not cheap but worth it.That flip out kick stand that turns it into a chair (for the kid) is essential during breaks as they can keep snoozing comfortably in it when it's not on your back. I got two for my kids from Steep and Cheap for half off. Splurge for the rain and sun cover accessories. I gave my two away, otherwise I would give one to you.
  4. Holy type 2/3 fun Batman! That was an incredible write up and one of the best TRs that I've read in a long time! I've been drooling over that route for decades and you pulled it off in impressive style despite multiple setbacks along the way. Awesome commitment and honesty in reporting! Great photos! And 5.11 at altitude, massively dehydrated, with those big ass packs? Holy shiiite that's proud! Looking forward to your write up of K2's Cessen Route in approach shoes soon. So is Technique Extreme still there? When I was last in Cham 20 years ago they had super cheap gear of dubious quality, kind of like the Harbor Freight of mountaineering gear. That selfie of you and the summit Madonna is classic! Frame that in black velvet with black lighting above your bed! PS: Watching you shred those nice packs by hauling, ouch! Consider a Fish Atom Smasher or equivalent like the Metolius Mescalito or Express haul pack...much more durable for the granite grind, albeit heavier.
  5. [TR] Colonial - standard 08/03/2021

    Great TR Jon. Thanks for posting with such alluring pics. I've been wanting some colonialism even since I heard about Watusi Rodeo. Kuato, can you please tell me what ridge specifically are you referring to?
  6. Price Avalanche + Rescue

    Wonder if they had a sense that the snow was soft on the approach to the lower Nooksak Tower, BEFORE turning back from soft snow that dropped down to the Price Glacier? I could see anyone descending from the Tower late in the afternoon after the rappels to feel relieved to be back on the snowfield and just want to power down back to camp or car, unaware or too tired to care about the avalanche danger, and getting hit by a similar slide. Man, those guys were lucky. That's a long way to get dragged. Could have been much worse. Sobering example of spring slide potential. Thanks for posting!
  7. idea Cable bindings for Mountaineering Boots

    Chouinard made an adapter for mountaineering boots to fit in cable tele bindings in the 1980s. I have a pair and used them on some fairly long mountaineering trips in Alaska in the Wrangells and on Denali. It was a toe piece with an axle that fit into a modified Riva cable binding and allowed the rigid mountaineering boot to pivot at the toe. I like your idea as I have tele gear and mountaineering boots and don't have an AT set up or plan to get one. I did mount some old Silvretta 404s on some approach skis but haven't used them yet. I suspect that set up, with the heel not latched would work fine for approaches and gentle touring. I have to decide between ski touring or a mountaineering goal and then choose what gear to take (tele vs mountaineering boots). Having an AT set up with boots that one can climb in would make this choice obsolete. But I'm kind of slow to embrace this change and I enjoy the free heel touring experience. Classic climbs in the Alps were climbed then the slopes were skied back down to Chamonix in regular (non-ski) boots. Perhaps bringing back a similar cable binding set up might work? Also, Altai skis (maker of the Altai Hok) has a universal approach binding that will bind any boot but I doubt that offers much in the way of performance.
  8. Hotlum-Bolam Ridge on Shasta

    I've done this route a number of times both in summer and winter, solo, in a day, camping out, etc. All of the options you list are good. Skis for the approach could save you from post-holing. Storms are no joke on that mountain. That little step up around 13,000' is a great place to experience the full force of cascade tempests and have your tent destroyed. Great place to test your gear and mettle for bigger ranges (hint for Alaska: dig a pit 5' deep in the snow and build an additional circumferential snow wall. A snow saw for making blocks is helpful. When it's really coming down, expect to shovel every 30 mins so you don't get buried). Crevasses were a non-issue, but all of my trips were 20-30 years ago. Don't get stuck on the approach road! Many fun, interesting and challenging routes of Shasta...lots to explore. Steep snow basics like bomber self arrest technique are assumed, and yes I descended the same way (don't fall!). Be safe! Please post a TR to share your experience.
  9. Did you loose these items recently near the backcountry access point near the Mt. Baker Ski Area? If so, please describe them and when you lost them.
  10. Mt Hood

    Or ask Colin Hailey how he broke his cheek bone.
  11. Mt Hood

    Renato Casarotto could add some insight to this discussion.
  12. Whitehorse, matinee idol

    Great opening scene in War Games in the missile silo . I'd never heard of Whitehorse. It's now added to my list of peaks to climb. Thanks for posting. Beautiful TR here: http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/whitehorse/whitehorseglcier2008/wh2008.htm
  13. wanted to buy Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2 Tent Vestibule

    Mountain Hardwear is now making the Direkt 2 again under the name AC 2. They have a vestibule too for $170. For a 1/2 pound more than the Direkt 2 vestibule weight (630g) you can get a full coverage fly by improvising using a 850gm Mountainsmith Mountain Shelter LT tarp tent (see below). It adds a layer of versatility/protection for basecamp scenarios, then you could take the Direkt 2 alone up higher to save weight. The pics below show it covering the Directk2 in my yard. Staked out, it's bomber in heavy storms and wind. I slept in just the Mountain Shelter LT 50 days a year (without the Direkt 2) for a couple of consecutive years in the Sierra during every month of the year. It's a floorless tarp tent. The piƱon green color is great for stealth camping in Buttermilk sagebrush. It's been discontinued but you can still find them online for $70-100 on sale or pay $120-150 retail. I made carbon fiber poles for mine as I don't hike with trekking poles. An idea for the budget minded plus you get an awesome tarp tent to use alone too. It's heavier duty construction is appreciated for something that I'll use often and need abrasion resistance for wear and tear, but it's not ultralight. I swapped out the reflective guylines for lighter weight non-reflective cord.
  14. wanted to buy Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2 Tent Vestibule

    Definitely makes the Direkt 2 so much more comfortable/ functional.
  15. [TR] Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 10/03/2020

    "Going up and down the icy sections without a backup required total focus and perfection" So true! I hit it solo back in mid-August, and an icy Winnie's definitely gave me pause. Strangely, I had the entire summit pyramid to myself. When you are back at the trailhead, it's cool that you can see both Winnie's and Hell's Highway from parking lot,. Before I climbed it, Shuksan's complexity made it hard to figure out where the route actually went. What an awesome mountain. I look forward to doing some of the North Face routes and of course Nooksak Ridge/Tower and Jagged Ridge too. Looking down on the Hanging glacier from the summit was wild! Descending the route in a whiteout/storm/darkness would be epic!
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