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bargainhunter

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bargainhunter last won the day on January 14 2020

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About bargainhunter

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  1. Price Avalanche + Rescue

    Wonder if they had a sense that the snow was soft on the approach to the lower Nooksak Tower, BEFORE turning back from soft snow that dropped down to the Price Glacier? I could see anyone descending from the Tower late in the afternoon after the rappels to feel relieved to be back on the snowfield and just want to power down back to camp or car, unaware or too tired to care about the avalanche danger, and getting hit by a similar slide. Man, those guys were lucky. That's a long way to get dragged. Could have been much worse. Sobering example of spring slide potential. Thanks for posting!
  2. idea Cable bindings for Mountaineering Boots

    Chouinard made an adapter for mountaineering boots to fit in cable tele bindings in the 1980s. I have a pair and used them on some fairly long mountaineering trips in Alaska in the Wrangells and on Denali. It was a toe piece with an axle that fit into a modified Riva cable binding and allowed the rigid mountaineering boot to pivot at the toe. I like your idea as I have tele gear and mountaineering boots and don't have an AT set up or plan to get one. I did mount some old Silvretta 404s on some approach skis but haven't used them yet. I suspect that set up, with the heel not latched would work fine for approaches and gentle touring. I have to decide between ski touring or a mountaineering goal and then choose what gear to take (tele vs mountaineering boots). Having an AT set up with boots that one can climb in would make this choice obsolete. But I'm kind of slow to embrace this change and I enjoy the free heel touring experience. Classic climbs in the Alps were climbed then the slopes were skied back down to Chamonix in regular (non-ski) boots. Perhaps bringing back a similar cable binding set up might work? Also, Altai skis (maker of the Altai Hok) has a universal approach binding that will bind any boot but I doubt that offers much in the way of performance.
  3. Hotlum-Bolam Ridge on Shasta

    I've done this route a number of times both in summer and winter, solo, in a day, camping out, etc. All of the options you list are good. Skis for the approach could save you from post-holing. Storms are no joke on that mountain. That little step up around 13,000' is a great place to experience the full force of cascade tempests and have your tent destroyed. Great place to test your gear and mettle for bigger ranges (hint for Alaska: dig a pit 5' deep in the snow and build an additional circumferential snow wall. A snow saw for making blocks is helpful. When it's really coming down, expect to shovel every 30 mins so you don't get buried). Crevasses were a non-issue, but all of my trips were 20-30 years ago. Don't get stuck on the approach road! Many fun, interesting and challenging routes of Shasta...lots to explore. Steep snow basics like bomber self arrest technique are assumed, and yes I descended the same way (don't fall!). Be safe! Please post a TR to share your experience.
  4. Did you loose these items recently near the backcountry access point near the Mt. Baker Ski Area? If so, please describe them and when you lost them.
  5. Mt Hood

    Or ask Colin Hailey how he broke his cheek bone.
  6. Mt Hood

    Renato Casarotto could add some insight to this discussion.
  7. Whitehorse, matinee idol

    Great opening scene in War Games in the missile silo . I'd never heard of Whitehorse. It's now added to my list of peaks to climb. Thanks for posting. Beautiful TR here: http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/whitehorse/whitehorseglcier2008/wh2008.htm
  8. wanted to buy Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2 Tent Vestibule

    Mountain Hardwear is now making the Direkt 2 again under the name AC 2. They have a vestibule too for $170. For a 1/2 pound more than the Direkt 2 vestibule weight (630g) you can get a full coverage fly by improvising using a 850gm Mountainsmith Mountain Shelter LT tarp tent (see below). It adds a layer of versatility/protection for basecamp scenarios, then you could take the Direkt 2 alone up higher to save weight. The pics below show it covering the Directk2 in my yard. Staked out, it's bomber in heavy storms and wind. I slept in just the Mountain Shelter LT 50 days a year (without the Direkt 2) for a couple of consecutive years in the Sierra during every month of the year. It's a floorless tarp tent. The piñon green color is great for stealth camping in Buttermilk sagebrush. It's been discontinued but you can still find them online for $70-100 on sale or pay $120-150 retail. I made carbon fiber poles for mine as I don't hike with trekking poles. An idea for the budget minded plus you get an awesome tarp tent to use alone too. It's heavier duty construction is appreciated for something that I'll use often and need abrasion resistance for wear and tear, but it's not ultralight. I swapped out the reflective guylines for lighter weight non-reflective cord.
  9. wanted to buy Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2 Tent Vestibule

    Definitely makes the Direkt 2 so much more comfortable/ functional.
  10. [TR] Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 10/03/2020

    "Going up and down the icy sections without a backup required total focus and perfection" So true! I hit it solo back in mid-August, and an icy Winnie's definitely gave me pause. Strangely, I had the entire summit pyramid to myself. When you are back at the trailhead, it's cool that you can see both Winnie's and Hell's Highway from parking lot,. Before I climbed it, Shuksan's complexity made it hard to figure out where the route actually went. What an awesome mountain. I look forward to doing some of the North Face routes and of course Nooksak Ridge/Tower and Jagged Ridge too. Looking down on the Hanging glacier from the summit was wild! Descending the route in a whiteout/storm/darkness would be epic!
  11. You can get a 70”x20” pad like that from Sierra Trading Post with free shipping to their store for $7/ea and they weigh 234g. https://www.sierra.com/trespass-radix-sleeping-pad-70x20-rectangular~p~443fm/ The gossamer gear ones cost $32 PLUS $20 just for shipping alone for a single pad, and it’s 1” narrower and 11” shorter. F that.
  12. [TR] Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 08/09/2020

    Thanks for the beta! With your trip report (and reading over ALL of the older ones on CC) I was able to climb it confidently solo on Friday 8/14/20. Winnies slide almost shut me down. The ice halfway up gave me serious pause. Bad runout into rocks. I had perfect conditions but easily see how one can epic on several of the sections. Crevasses, falls, bad weather (wind/white out on the sulphide summit plateau) and I sure as hell wouldn’t want to try to descend down the Chimneys in the dark or in rain. It would be easy to loose the trail over the talus patches on the way back to Lake Ann from the base of the Chimneys at night as well. Full value strenuous day. Knowing about the glacial run off at the upper Curtis was great for hydration. There were snowmelt drips even on the summit pyramid, which is a lot bigger/longer than I thought. Glad I took steel crampons (Grivel G12s) on my Scarpa Rebel carbons instead of aluminum crampons. Camp Corsa axe did the job but two Quarks would have been more secure on Winnies and Hell’s highway. If I had had a rope I might have rapped it. The boot track from previous parties made navigation a no brainer and relieved a lot of stress (thank you!) , but the track had faded when I descended in the afternoon. Wands or GPS breadcrumbs would be useful if it’s misty/low viz. Crevasses were visible and bridges were solid, but I would have turned back immediately if I felt sketched about the solidity of the lips/bridges. Also, the moats by the rocks can be treacherous. I had been wanting to do this route for 30+ years. Definitely a satisfying mountaineering goal! Beckey described it as torturous. I’d call it extreme walking. Classic!
  13. What’s this buttress called? Routes? Topos? Beta? It’s on the opposite side of Ruth Creek from Mamie Peak. It descends off of the north side of Nooksack Ridge between Ruth and Sefrit (not the similarly named Nooksack Ridge which is nearby between Nooksack Tower and Shuksan’s summit).
  14. DIY Altitude Training , does it work??

    Might be simpler/cheaper to put a plastic bag over your head and rubber band it around you neck. If you can do 50 laps on Chair Peak in winter without removing it, wearing only running shoes and a wife beater, then you may be ready for the Kukuczka line on K2. Just don't buy your rope used in a Katmandu bazaar.
  15. wanted to buy Anyone selling: mountain hardwear direkt 2

    Such a good tent for its intended purpose. It’s a shame they discontinued it.
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