Latok I North Ridge Rescue?

[Choada_Boy]

Anyone else been following this? Holy shit!!

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/alexander-gukov-rescued-on-latok-1.html

 

[JasonG]

Now that is amazing. I thought he was a dead man.  That must have been exciting to have his anchor blow apart while he was being pulled by the helo.

[ScaredSilly]

A one shot short haul. Good thing his anchor was marginal. Lucky boy.

[Choada_Boy]

I remember a similar thing a bunch of years ago, on Nanga Parpat’s Rupal Face. 

I watched this one play out for the last week or so, on mountain.ru. I also figured he was a goner, bur still held out hope, until late last night.  I got chills down my spine when they posted: “Saved!”

Russian climbers are hard dudes, though, so I am not too surprised. They almost summited, again, this was their second attempt. His partner fell with most of their gear. F#ck that!

[Rad]

Wow. I'd also read the accounts from this past weekend and guessed that he was toast. So great to hear a happy ending in the mountains. Sounds like he could have been torn apart like a medieval tortue rack victim if the anchor had been any stronger.

Phew! 

Maybe the mountain spirits are telling him to take up golf...

 

[Choada_Boy]

Parbat, not parpat. 

[dberdinka]

3 hours ago, Choada_Boy said:

I remember a similar thing a bunch of years ago, on Nanga Parpat’s Rupal Face. 

I watched this one play out for the last week or so, on mountain.ru. I also figured he was a goner, bur still held out hope, until late last night.  I got chills down my spine when they posted: “Saved!”

Russian climbers are hard dudes, though, so I am not too surprised. They almost summited, again, this was their second attempt. His partner fell with most of their gear. F#ck that!

 

So is it true they were using dulfersitz because a rappel device was too heavy to carry?   Seems a bit unreasonable to expect someone to risk their neck to save you when you cut your margins that thin.   And then to leave yourself anchored to both chopper and wall.  Yikes.

[BK9]

I had also read that they were using the dulfersitz rappel.

What a horrible situation to be in after watching your partner perish.

Glad he was able to be rescued, you think he'll give it another go?

[JasonG]

52 minutes ago, dberdinka said:

So is it true they were using dulfersitz because a rappel device was too heavy to carry?

WHAT??!! 

[layton]

Taken from AAI:

There are a few mental tools that we use when we instruct people how to climb safer and better. One of these is the use of acronyms to remember the components of safe anchor systems. Fortunately, these are becoming part of the average climber's vocabulary. The three that are most commonly used are SERENE + ERNEST + HELICOPTER. Here's what they stand for:

Solid (or strong)
Equalized
Redundant
Efficient
No
Extension

+

Equalized
Redunant
No
Extension
Solid (or strong)
Timely

+

Helicopter-proof

Edited August 1, 2018 by layton

[Choada_Boy]

I read that they left their rappel devices at the Bone Cairn. 

 

Edited August 1, 2018 by Choada_Boy

[G-spotter]

From Supertopo: "

pell   climber Moscow

Aug 1, 2018 - 12:15am PT We call it dulfer in Russia no matter which exact rope descending technique is used. Correct translation is rappel/rappeling. Also NO COLLUSION

"

[ivan]

abseil sounds cooler still

[Stefan]

Wow.  On so many levels.

One.  The attempt.  Ballsy.

Two. He lives for many days after his partner dies.

Three.  The rescue.