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Gumby (1/14)



  1. I was there on a week day and was the only one on the mountain. I did the center gully as DPS describes. It was simple and fun scrambling. Use a little caution coming down, but nothing diffcult. I know other parts of the summit pyrimad can go up to about 5.6. One thing about the gully is that it is easy to find and know that you are on what you want to be on...not wondering if you are on the blank ridge or the blank arete or the blank side...you get it. I bet if it is crowded that gully would not be fun. Good luck
  2. Usually that time of year the cravasses are very large, open, and easy to detect, and avoid. So, if you can't find a partner, you should be able to solo the peak safely. I did it solo with a light sleeping bag, a bivy sack, light stove, crampons, and ice axe and never felt concerned. This is of course assuming a cetain level of compentancy with ice axe and crampons. (I know some out there will say I am sending you on a death climb, and don't listen to nobody, whatever). Permits can also be a bit of a bitch that time of year. Good luck
  3. Thanks for the link. Very cool page with great info to keep tabs on the progress. This was taken from the page: "Washington Pass" North Cascades Highwaycreated 03/24/2002 Assessment of SR 20 in the North CascadesOKANOGAN – The North Central Region WSDOT Avalanche Control team traveled in a snow cat over SR 20 for an initial snow and safety assessment evaluation on Monday, February 25. They found the avalanche chutes still very active, so it will be mid to late March before it will be safe to move crews and equipment to begin preparing for the spring opening. The crew estimated that once they start the effort, it may take several weeks to open the highway due to the large amount of snow that has accumulated. Last year’s drought and very low snow pack allowed the highway to re-open earlier than ever before, on March 22. The latest opening date was recorded in 1974 when it wasn’t re-opened until June 14. Only once since the highway opened to traffic in 1973 has it remained open through the entire winter, in 1976-77, during a drought. Typically, the re-opening date of the North Cascades has fallen between late April and mid May. The North Central Region Avalanche team found snow depths on the highway below the Liberty Bell avalanche chutes near the Washington Pass summit ranged from 25 to nearly 50 feet this year compared with the 12 to 36 feet on the road last year. Snow depths through the Cutthroat Ridge avalanche zone ranged from 8 to 33 feet this year compared to the 4 to 11 feet on the road last year. The snow volume is much higher than a year ago. At Cutthroat #11, the snow at the foot of the avalanche chute is only a couple feet higher than last year, but while the accumulation was only ten feet wide last spring, it was 95 feet wide this spring. Surprisingly, the snow at the top of Washington (5,477’ and Rainy (4,855’ passes was only about 10 feet deep compared with 8 feet recorded during last year’s assessment. A snow pit was excavated near the summit of Washington Pass. The overall snow pack shows to be stable as of now, however rapid prolonged warming could hamper the stability of the pack. There are several snow pockets that have not released as of yet. These areas might release before opening commences, if not they will have to be watched carefully.
  4. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about Wash. Pass road opening this year? I haven't heard anything. I know that it usually opens in late April or May...correct? Sorry if this topic has recently been posted. Any beta is appreciated!!!
  5. "The fall was caused by the woman having slipped out of both ice tool leashes." Interesting....curious to hear more. Wonder what kind of leashes and if she had them on correctly? Hope she recovers soon....
  6. I have been up there that time of year. We bailed due to very high winds. My impresssions: Yes, it is doable in one day if you are in very good shape, a solid climber at that difficulty level, used to moving quickly over that type of ground, your partner(s) is/are all of these things too, and the route is in good shape. Going up the main route would, of course, be even more doable. Either way, one day is long and the weather that time of year can turn very quickly. Good luck and post a TR.
  7. rr666: What do you mean Tom Cruise a Hollywood Climber? Come on dude, that was real....wasn't it? hahahahahahahahah
  8. I believe that MSR was sold off from REI's list of wholly owned subsidiaries no too long ago. Also REI never, or rarely anyway, interfered with the running of the company. I agree MSR has it right. [ 02-27-2002: Message edited by: nobody ]
  9. And if you spend enough time in the Gorge you can watch someone throw themselves off the bridge (something like 970+ feet to the railroad grade) only to find they are illegally basejumping. Watch out for the dueling banjos...if you hear them run away...fast.
  10. I used one of the Katadyn in Africa and it worked fine.
  11. I like K2. Though the Eiger Sanction is cool too. K2 does have some pretty bad parts, tecnically at least. But as far as expedition climbing goes i think it hits the spot. The story is at least interetsing without going overboard. And the scenery is really good. I remember the 1956 Mountain with Spencer Tracy. It was a good movie for its time. Poor special effect but good story. I think a snow bridge colapse kills the bad guy. How about Cliff Hanger? Sure a total Hollywood flick, but at least enertaining at times with some good scenery.
  12. Scott: I am curious if you noticed the snow level/conditions as far as skiing all the way down the Nisqually glacier/river tot the bridge? Is there enough snow pack to do it this year? Thanks in advance...
  13. Nadia: You may want to provide more informaton as far as your experience, the type of climbing you want to do (sport, ice, alpine, basic mountainering, etc.) And also include what your avaiability is, roughly anyway. Are you a weekend only person? Weekdays? Info like that will help those out there that might be willing to help. Good luck....
  14. I actually cracked a plastic or Lexan blade before, not by prying it either. I am convinced that the aluminum is stronger when used to cut or slice. However, it is true that either can and will break, especially when using it to pry. I know that BD used to make one that fit a standard ice ax handle...but I haven't seen one in some time. DRU: I actually saw someone do an improvised shovel once with a deadman/fluke...it can be done but it really seemed more of a last resort and took some time to set up. For the life of me I cannot remember where I saw this, or how they actually rigged the system up.
  15. genepires: Check the Jeff Lowe connection to Cloudveil. The owners of Cloudveil a couple of young guys that live in Jackson. I met them in the Tetons a couple of years ago (though they both stated that there was another silent/money partner). Overall thier stuff is innovative and well constructed. But Scholler is Scholler and will perform the same regardless of manufacturer (of course there are somevaritaions by things like cut and features of a particular garmet.) As wdietsch said, Jeff Lowe's is called Cloudwalker. I haven't seen or heard much about his company.
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