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crazyjizzy

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Everything posted by crazyjizzy

  1. Apparently, years later, Markov was doing the WF of NEWS when someone who was looking for the Markov NF route yelled up assking for directions. Greg told her of the error, but she took him to task, yelling back to him that "it's in the guidebook!". To which Greg screamed in reply "I am Greg Markov GODDAMN IT!"
  2. UBB23-ML-434841-ML-
  3. The PM of Georgia died of the effects of a "accidental gas leak" at a "friends" house. I know that I am probably the only one in the world who thinks so, but what is the chance that the PM of an oil rich, geo-politically important, strife driven, country could die such an innocous death? Am I crazy to think that there may be more to the story?
  4. The AP is reporting that the King has dismissed the PM, declared a "State of Emergency", and possibly desolved the democratically elected government. All this while battling Maoists. Not only could this have deleterous effects on travellers, it is a shame that such a fine country and people are so troubled.
  5. 1) You are right about Alex Frid, I had the CAJ with me while I typed, and I fucked up. 2) I clearly stated that the 1989 route had a different start. 3) The article is not clear how tne 1989 and summer routes coincide, but on p.74 they state "follow a line similar to Fred Beckeys". Unless the FA put spray paint on the soles of their feet, we all can only follow a route " similar". 4) I think the main thrust of my reply was to reinforce the need to do research before making any claims. Wayne and DP did a fine climb, but unfortunatly marred their trip report with a claim which can be construed as nebulous. It was Special Ed and Ray Borbon who brought this all up, I mostly clearly referenced things.
  6. crazyjizzy

    Dirtbag Tm?

    Wait untill you get something in the mail, from a real lawyer.
  7. Oh, screw my good frien AlpineK, I am nicer than him. Want some Tyvek?
  8. Bobby Cordaroy-Cotter! I thought that ego driven piece of shit was gone for good. He is the author of clearly some of the worst climbimg writing ever; a "train of thought" POS about doing the Croz with Bebie, and of course his article about soloing Edith Cavell. In the latter article he mentioned each and every piece of gear he own, obviously an attempt at sponsorship whoring. Fuck him.
  9. It didn't load for me, but if you hate it, I hate it. I will be good to see you, your Leavenworth buddy, and your two other pals on 2-5.
  10. You greedy son of a bitch, yesterday I mailed (on my own dime) the young man a piece of tyvek 9' x 12' for free. Why would he want to buy your obviously second rate tyvek?
  11. According to CAJ v73, 1990, p 71: The upper ridge had a winter ascent prior to 1988. Alex Frid and Jack Stewart climbed the FNR to the summit via an ice line apparently between the '63 Beckey start and the more common summer start (CAJ v70, 1990 p72-74). After reading their account, I give full credit to them for the first winter ascent of the Full North Ridge of Stuart.
  12. I have a big roll of tyvek. PM me with your address, and I could mail you a 5'x9' piece. Mail will cost one of us probably $1.00.
  13. AlpineK: While we are speaking the 70's, 76-77 was dryer than this year. As was 80-81. So take your data, and jam it up your ass.
  14. CBS Maybe it is you that your colleagues are talking about. The crazy ones don't think they are.
  15. You understand the dynamics, and the stressors correctly. Remember, Jason Martin is a god damn playwrite, not a vocation known for strength in math and physics. He is correct about the c-pulley and a 2:1 ratio. But as a "redirect" the anchor will feel load X and X' = 2X, but there is no mechanical advantage to the belayer.
  16. Are you in Nepal? What is the political situation there now? Thanks.
  17. I was refering to Erden query about adaibatic cooling of the flame. A careful reading of that post would show that that particular question was in regards to evaporation in the burner area, on a liquid fuel stove. After years at a mechanical fab shop, I know all about the evaporation in the gaseous portion of propane, liquid oxygen, etc bottles.
  18. I have always thought that stoves in Alaska worked poorly because the fuel was old. When you buy it from the flight service, you can't tell how long it has been sitting around. We had difficulty with stoves in the past, which then worked well when the fuel source was changed to a known "good". I don't think that cooling from evaporation could cool any reaction with such a high heat of reaction as the proper combustion of a fossil fuel, such as in a stove, to have a deleterous effect on combustion.
  19. DPS, not to nit-pick, but you are wrong in practical terms about gas fuel bieng a mix. Sinsu-stricto iso-butane is a pure gas, but MSR markets their cannisters as a mix of propane and butane. So in reality, Kurt is right, and you are a dumb son of a bitch.
  20. You pussy, you nailed it. AlpineK has been pushing the envelope of clean tree climbing for 15 years. You are suck.
  21. It is a hammer drill, as opposed to a rotory hammer. It is really meant for drill short and small diameter holes in concrete, as well as stucco, gyp crete, etc. It will not drill a hole in granite. Dewalt quality is very good. Their cordless ddrill motor is the industry standard, and is typically almost the only one seen on job sites. This is not because of price, because all professional grade tools are similar in price.
  22. Advertising on a bulletin board is an excellent way to keep it a big surprise! Don't quit your day job to go to work for the CIA.
  23. No, that would be Dale Farham, of the FA with Charlie and Pete Doorish.
  24. AK, You'll need something to protect you from all your new friends who want to kick your ass at the other sight. At least rat, TFM, and me are too busy to deal with you. Good luck.
  25. If you left a bunch of stuff at the Col in July, while getting blown to Mt. Hixson, please PM me. At least some of your stuff is in Squamish now.
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