crazyjizzy

I have read alot of magazine articles and TR's since 1975, and have decided that most writings are just plain shitty. This is not a recent occurance. By far the worst writing I have seen was a series by Bob Cotter when he was desperately trying to become the "nice" Twight. He had some unreadable stream of thought garbage of climbing the Croz Spur with Bebie, a muddled tale of Big Four, and a account of his solo on Edith Cavell that literally dripped with equipment name dropping. 1) Keep it short; I almost always scan a TR for lenght, and I know a long one is almost always padded with shit. 2) Formulas aren't bad. AlpineK has recieved some shit for his time-line driven TR's, but they get to the point, and impart the information. AlpineK knows he ain't Ed Webster. 3) Leave out the superflous crap. We don't need to read about your car, your wife (unless she has big knockers), your job, dog, etc. As a case in point "Big Four - Sprindrift Couloir, second ascent" was really padded with tripe. Who cares if he went skiing the weekend before? And does anyone give a shit that the guy you were going to climb with went to Mt. Index instead? 4) Knock off the name dropping. So what if you recieved beta from Jim Nelson, Kit, Charlie, Bryan Burdo etc. What happens when you mention the name of a semi-famous NW climber; is that you're chest thumping that you must be good, because your friends are. 5) Don't write love letters to your gear. Here I point to both the aforementioned Bob Cotter, and Spindrift. Cotter mentioned his gear so much that I expected to see trademarks. And Spindrift used "BD 22cm" etc way too much. This type of writing may have been OK in '75 when Alex McIntyre was waxing about his 'Terrors on the Shroud, but this ain't the seventies, and Mountain is long gone. I had a Professor who was a master at abstracts, and he liked to point out that at least one Nobel Prize has been won with an abstract ( I can not vouch for this claim). While the number of outdoor participants has grown alot in the last 20+ years, the number of periodicals (and the attendant number of writers) has grown even larger. Sadly, the number of good writers has remained stagnent. Climbing and R&I, are largely drivel about what to buy. Outside and a couple of similar mags always have a article or two that are real good. They use real journalists. The internet has diluted this gene pool even more. On a similar vien, do we need to read climbing resumes when someone replies to "Partners wanted". How about PM's? Or is there an ultier motive?

AlpineK and I need to know; does Dave Schuldt have a valid drivers license, and can he drive?

I agree completely with Sex CoCo, the problem is in the front office. GP's was a leader by example on the court, not a Capt. type, but was as fierce a battler as there is. Now we have no BC, and alot of stiffs up front.

Sp Ed, why would the use their $4.5m exemption, when they could have Larry Bird'd him in with no limit? Getting traded was the best thing for G., now he can play for George, with Anthony Mason, et. al, and maybe make a run on the east. With Wally and Rick Sund in the front office, the Supes will always have problems. Be sad for Sonic fans, be happy for GP for leaving a shitty situation, and be glad for what Gary brought us!

Fuck AlpineK, he is just mad 'cause he gets shitty reception. Fuck AlpineK, fuck AlpineK, fuck AlpineK. Without television, we would have "Friends" featuring Jennifer Anistons boobs. Fuck AlpineK

Sunday April 14th, 1989

Well said Double well said Triple well said

From the carnage that was yesterday, we will rebuild the Pub Club; better, faster, stronger. The Fremont/Ballard axis will be stopped. I think that we need to remember that in the last year there has been three East-side Pub Clubs (April, Oct., Feb.). On average that is about once every 14 weeks. When there is a groundswell for the East-side, we will not coddle anyone who we feel is trying to sway votes back to the hated Ballard/Fremont. Us East-sider's are particulary touchy because we all have regular jobs, and are not able to hang out by the computer in the living room like all you un-, and barely- employed Fremontites I vote that we codify Eastside Pub's for April, Sept, Nov, and Feb. That shopuld allow you wennies plenty of time near your homes. I also think that on occassion, that a trip to a place like Northlake Pizza, etc shopuld be entertained. This way youngsters like Colin could visit, while you drunks got your buzz on. It was cool to see people like Lisa and Dwayner at the Redmond Pub Club. Remember, us Eastsiders may be few, but we have Me and Caveman on out side, as well as an understanding AlpineK. Prolatriatly Yours CJZ

Then why are you responding if you dont care? You do care! And it was the Iceman, Dr. Don Ryan who first observed your behavior of trying to switch sites, even after Redmond was decided on. We will, with me and Cavey, but no you. Boo Hoo. So you get to state your opinion, but I don't. That is so much typical PC Seattle-Nazi bullshit. I wasn't the first, Dr. Don did. I just agreed with him. But because he has a Doctorate, you are afraid to argue with him. I got news for you sister, I can argue anyone to death! Well, I think that for the most part it is because it is a climbers gathering. And the simple fact is that most climbers are male. We aren't against women, but we will not give them any special treatment either. Don't flatter yourself. My girlfriend the RN loves me, and thinks I am the most fair person in the world. You are just mad cause I won't allow you to change the location to a place that will be easier for you to get to after your labs, ho hum, yawn. And Dave, I just want to compliment you on your nice brown nose. It was decided to go to Redmond before you even chimed in, and you told everyone on the board that you could only attend if it was near Fremont.

First off I would like to apologize to AK. I know you're not against drinking on the eastside. There is an important issue I feel the need to discuss. I read the Pub Club thread every week, and I've noticed a disturbing trend. Some, but not all, of the female posters on this site think that because they are female they can move the Pub Club to wherever they want to go. Well I've got news for you. A number of us guys already have girlfriends, and we aren't swayed by that crap; also quite a number of the single guys realize that they are never going to get laid hanging out at at Pub Club. If you have an opinion then state it, but don't couch in terms of, "I won't show up unless it is at *** location." We would like you to show up; just like any other climber. As a second point, I'm sick of reading posts that say, "I can't show up because .......... Either show up or don't show up; nobody really wants to hear your excuses. I come to Pub Clubs in Seattle. I'm sick of you Ballard/ Fremont people whining about driving more than 5 blocks.

Bull Fucking Shit! Have it god-damn Redmond. You fucking Fremont Ballard wennies are the god-damnest bunch of zenophobic fucks I ahve ever seen. Be nice to Lisa.

REDMOND REDMOND REDMOND!!!! That way me and Caveman will come!!! Screw Ballard and Fremont!

Allison said: As is her norm, Allison vastly understated the truth with that statement! She is an "art asistant" for the powerhouse Washington Trails, and contributes gear reviews for the same publication. In the last year she was responsible for single page reviews of MSR Ttrekking poles, and a MEC rain jacket. Of particular importance was her two page synopsis of various on-line and mail-order stores, including Sierra. We should be happy to have such a literary powerhouse and industry mogul as a regular poster here! WOW!!! I bet she may even get paid! It must really take some pull to get into the OR.

I think that we have to consider that Allison herself wrote the PM to Dave, and is now in a campaign of disinformation to falsely appear innocent. While she often tries to appear above it all, her avatar Poptart, and her dialoge under another name with Scott'teryx on Summitpost last year both got down and dirty. Both were crudely sexual and nasty. We know that Allison is against non-smoking Pub Clubs, and what a better way to get under Daves skin. She then attempts to point fingers in other directions. Allison, you should be ashamed of yourself! ------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------ AH HA!!! I figured out a way around a locked thread!!! Allison, your reply was nicely obfusicatory, but surely didn't deny that you wrote that PM to Dave. You still should be ashamed of yourself!

There has always been alot of marginal characters in the climbing world, some I feel were in need of true help. Yabo: Was crazy before he killed himself. John Bonneville: Became a skid row bum, dead(?) AT (from Smith, 70's and 80's): Given choice, drinking or death. Dead Aid Man Bob Shoenard: Soloed Leaning Tower in 82 with only three daisy chains Will Tyrell: My friends say this dude was fucked up Dave Stutzman: I remember him wandering around Leavenworth in a old pair of EB's, about five sizes too big. The Tron Brothers from the Valley: The name says it all Darryl Hatten: Needle and the damage done. Charlie: Dave Shultz: Had to be insane to do all the evil things he did to AlpineK. Jim Beyer: Talks about doing routes where an ambivalance to life is needed. A Seattle local written up by John Erbin, known for ice solo's and other not so notible behavior. Any others

It's Jim Nelson's brother.

Recent amendments to the Federal Fair Housing Act make it illegal to advertise any preferance, limitation, or otherwise encourage discrimination because of race, color, religion, etc. The Seattle Times intreperates this to include the clauses Single One Person No Children I will own you when my shyster lawyer gets done! You are a big meanie!

I am a pig fucker, so is Rat. Rat likes furry little animals too.

Lets set the record straight: Probably the first climber to shoot slings at Index was Don Harder, way back in the seventies. The first climber to hit the slings on Princely Ambitions with a potato gun from the RR tracks was Rat in '93. Kit Lewis fired his gun at Index many times, most notibly his 50cal. muzzle loader on the Fourth of July '85. We fired towards the Lower Lump in the hopes of nailing Dick Cilley. Three well known NW climbers were responsible for greasing City Park. The PIG was hung four seperate times over four years, by a group of three core members, and two helpers. The first PIG was found by Fred Grafton, who suggested the deed to the core three. After the initial rigging, Dean re-rigged the PIG to near the tunnel. The second year , BIG MOUTH found a pig at the town dump. The third year the PIG was found up {Proctor Creek. Due to the fact that violence was possible between Fred and BIG MOUTH, there was no fourth year. Kit Lewis had NOTHING to do with the PIG(s), except when Dave Bale offered the protection of himself and Kit when a angry Fred Grafton was going to pound on a drunked little PIG rigger. Fred Grafton and drunken little PIG rigger are now buddies again! The van belonged to a drunken ruver guide named Otis, who left it there when it broke down. It accumulated alot of shit, including old tires and spray paint, which was burned up by a group of rowdies in '92. All night long the spray paint blew up. In the morning Steve Swenson was appaled.

This is a board for climbers, by climbers, about climbing. AAs such we need to root out the bumbly intruders that are filling this place with incipid bullshit. I propose the following limits. Lurking: Open to all. Less than ten posts: Please limit your posts to innocous questions about gear. Less than fifty posts: Starting climbers, own Freedom of the Hills, or have read Herzog or Kraukauer. Less than 100 posts: Have top roped outside, walked in crampons without needing stitches, have climbed a roped summit in the Cascades. Less than 200: Have led a pitch of 5.6 trad without breaking any bones. Less than 500: You consider yourself, and more importantly, competent others consider you a climber. You can trad, climb waterfalls, and do a self arrest without a sucking chest wound. If you have been up multiple A4's, WI5, been to Alaska, the greater Himilaya, South America, been in at least one fist fight while climbing, been refered to as a park bum by some park bums, or fired Kit Lewis's 50cal. muzzle loaded while drunk at Index, you can say anything you want. If your posts exceed you ability by a factor less than 2.5 - get better. If greater than 2.5 STFU you boob.

So this is what CC.com has come to. Making truely important posts like whether or not to wear gloves while belaying.

Capt, A better person to have as a hero would clearly be Darryl Hatton. He has done more rad routes than Kit, been deperted from the US, and fought Hells Angels to a draw.

It was really nice to see so many Tippy Turtles there!!![/qb] Especially Mike the Necropheliac, as well as T-Man. Of course the worlds two Greatest Tippy Turtles were there, giving shit to that weasel Beck. [ 11-20-2002, 02:14 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

The Professor was in Ballard, at the Firehouse. I think that it was very sad that of all the citizens of Ballard, that AlpineK had to go to Oregon, and miss out on Lykis 101, and Racks! Lord knows that AlpineK could learn a thing or two from The Professor, and who doesn't want to see a good rack. I am sure that AlpineK won't see any good racks at sportclimberville Smith. Maybe AlpineK is just one of those ignorant people who refuses to learn, and maybe he doesn't like racks? [ 11-09-2002, 11:35 AM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

I just talked to my good friend "The Rat", and he reminded me of Jim Beyer's article on new routes in the Tetons in the 2001 AAJ. Anger management, the police, and parole officers play an important part. In fact, he needed his PO's permission to go on a climbing trip. I know my many shortcomings, and am glad that I will not be resposible for a little shitter. I just wonder why wackos reproduce. As an aside, when something as conservative and staid as the AAJ prints articles like this, it makes the recent CC thread "Irresponsibe posts" seem stupid and pointless. If you are worried that teens are going to read CC and take up third classing, then they are going to read the AAJ and become aid psychos. [ 10-31-2002, 06:01 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]