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Everything posted by Marko
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[TR] Snoqualmie Mountain - New York Gully 03/16/2019
Marko replied to PorterM's topic in Alpine Lakes
Well done! Careful, or you're gonna get hooked on those climbs back there... -
It should be noted that the Rat exudes casual when the climbing isn't. And I think your assessment of climbing is spot on!
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Ya indeed; the above pic was from Saturday. We expected a conga line going up it!
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Of course, a small token for loaning out your man!
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Actually I think we only used the brown (field) one, but used it 2 or 3 times. We definitely brought pinko though!
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Trip: Snoqualmonix - Pineapple Express Trip Date: 03/30/2019 Trip Report: Another lap on it w/ Rolf. Thinnish ice down low but well adhered to the rock and more quantity than expected. The upper NYG pitch was quite dry. Still a very fun outing for this late in the season. It was a GroundUp-TeamFree-SmashAnGrab redpoint our sponsors (Geritol and Dr. Scholl's) would like to point out. No good pics on the route so I included a shot of the start of last year's instant classic, the Turf Testament... --I'd like to add a recommendation to rap after the 4th pitch since the traverse to NYG is a bit tedious, but more importantly the turf on the last pitch of NYG is not frozen. We had to be very careful not to damage it. Gear Notes: Don't forget the Tricams. Approach Notes: Need younger knees.
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Nice; kicking, stabbing, AND wallowing. It's all anyone needs.
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There’s also a fun spicier start just around to the right of the buttress toe. A bit Scottishy and turfy.
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sold! sold: SD Nitro 30 long, down sleeping bag, $80 obo
Marko replied to ropegoat's topic in The Yard Sale
Howdy, How does $60 cash sound? I'm in Seattle, can p/u anytime after work (7pm). -
[TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress Solo 08/01/2018
Marko replied to landoclimb's topic in North Cascades
Hot damn dude, nice one! -
On 4/22 NW face route between Backbone and Serpentine was quite dry, too.
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first ascent [TR] snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament 03/31/2018
Marko replied to rat's topic in Alpine Lakes
kukuzka1, his brother, and I were Team Motrin on an Alaska trip a few years back; I think graduating to Team Centrum Silver is appropriate! -
first ascent [TR] snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament 03/31/2018
Marko replied to rat's topic in Alpine Lakes
You'd love it dude, next year you can guide me up it 'cause by then I'll forget that we even did it! -
first ascent [TR] snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament 03/31/2018
Marko replied to rat's topic in Alpine Lakes
Just one shortie Snarg, used 3x in the blessed turf blobs. Some very crappy phone pics follow... The first page of the newest Testament: The first 3 meters off the ground: The next 15 meters, which set the tone for most of the climbing: Looking straight up last pitch and summit cornice. (The few other pics I took during the climb were too crappy for publication): Summit shot. If you look closely you can see the chiseled Fingers of Fate: This climb, in the conditions we found it, is harder and more sustained than NYG and PE and all their variations. Though Rolf said that's because we're old now. Praise be Turf for without it we are NOTHING! -
I don't really remember a big chockstone chimney other than the upper feature in the 5th and 6th pics. After I took that shot of Don on the south side he deked right then back up to the cool spiny crest. We just about followed the way we went a couple summers ago. I totally agree with your sentiments about the Snoq Alps! There's even stuff left to do on the NW side of Snoqualmie Mtn. I'm positive that last weekend there could have been numerous new routes put up all over them Alps!
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Actually, the first clean winter ascent awaits; I rested on a couple pieces due to decrepitude!
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Trip: Chair Pk - NW Ridge Trip Date: 02/11/2018 Trip Report: More fun in winter I thought, especially with the amazing conditions. More alpine ice well adhered to the rock than I've ever seen in the Snoq area, neve even! Don, my long time climbing partner, and I had a blast in this puppy yesterday. The last 10' of the first pitch gaining the ridge was a good opener. The second pitch we traversed on the south side of the ridge up to a small notch with a chockstone, then up a short runout slab then a downward traverse to a small tree belay on the right. The third pitch went straight up to a steep hard (for me anyway) chimney topping out on the crest. Fantastic hooking! Running belay along the sharp crest and on to the top. I hope folks got out and got some in these incredible conditions! Left side of N face (yep, that's all good alpine ice and neve!): N Face route: 1st pitch top out: Don on runout slab (red dot), belay tree barely visible down and right: 3rd pitch: Looking down 3rd pitch top out: Running belay toward top: Gear Notes: Rock rack, no pins or screws needed Approach Notes: Casual, no floatation needed/wanted
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Best I know of is my friend Scotty's sub 2 hour c2c. I bet Leor or the Haley alpinerope(less)gun could break 1.5 hrs.
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[TR] West McMillan, The Barrier, Mt. Terror - 7/13/2017
Marko replied to tvolk's topic in North Cascades
tvolk, Yep, Barrier Crest; not as bad as I expected, all in the shade! -
[TR] West McMillan, The Barrier, Mt. Terror - 7/13/2017
Marko replied to tvolk's topic in North Cascades
My buddy Don and I spent a few days last week up there, too. Camped on a perfect granite patio 100ft above the Chopping Block col. Climbed the Block (raps good now for a single 50m rope), the (unnamed?) peak west of the Ottohorn, and the normal route on Terror. Great traveling now with all the snow. Love them Pickets!