max

Yeah right Gene. Careful everyone, gene's the type of guy that'd post some crazy bad conditions like above just so he'd have the place to himself. What a low thing to do! And check you're pm's. dave

quote: Originally posted by Dan Larson: At present time which headlamp out there is the longest lasting / best illuminating Dan, I don't know you, but by judging from your posts, YOU SUCK! I mean, are you retarded, or what? Obviously a headlamp that is dimmer will tend to last longer. And brightest? "well, the headlamp I found attatched to the from of my car seems to be the brightest I've found. Hell of a attery, but sure good for those winter ascents of Rainier!" In my field of study, we call this a poorly-posed problem. In laymans terms, it's just a dumb question. dave I will add my two cents worth on the headlamp issue... I have one of those small petzl lamps.. the micro? When I first started using it, I was jealous of all my older freinds who had bigger beams... stupid joke. At first, I thought it was stupid dim. But then I thought about how many times I'd been able to do what I needed in twighlight or moonlight, leading me to the realization it doesnt matter how much light your lamp puts out 'cause your eyes adjust anyways! Ok ok, yeah, a brighter lamp is a little better, but when I think about how many times I've thrown my lamp in my pack going for a day of cragging thinking, "it small. Why not?" and been glad I took it along vs. the number of times I've cursed my lamp for being dim (very few times), I realize a lightweight, dim, low power, long lasting, dependable, easy to work with lamp is the best. If I loose mine or it stolen (I recently reduced my insurance deducable to $4.20), I'll replace it with one of those new BD LSD headlamps. And one final tip: I put a little slip of thin cardboard/paper in front of one of the contacts in my battery casing to prevent unexpected light failure. Then I put a small piece of tape over the lense to remind my dumb-ass about the paper. [ 01-08-2002: Message edited by: max ]

I just wanted to throw this out: I'd like to hear from people as to their favorite "alternate" route on mountains. More specifically, there are many "classic" (read: crowded) climbs in the Cascades on mountains that have other routes that are of similar difficulty and style, and are just as good! Maybe I can best describe what I'm looking for with an example... I like the Boulder Glacier on Mt. Baker. It's an excellent alternate to the Coleman_Deming route in that it's a moderate angle, winding glacier route that takes you past some yawning cracks and presents a few "interseting" situations. We did the route in mid to late May and didn't see another party. The Coleman is a zoo at this time! And, the route gave us a great view of the Park glacier headwall. Maybe some one could verify the Park as a good "alternate" to the N. Ridge? Any other Mountains with "alternates"?

quote: Originally posted by jeffers: if the rangers, or anyone else ever sets up a DGPS transmitter around Rainier or elsewhere, If this ever happens, just shoot me. Please. [ 01-04-2002: Message edited by: max ]

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: ...makes me think of batwings I would think these would make terrible appitizers being so lean of meat and sustinance... I like "drop knee". It doesn't really sound funny, it just makes me think of someone doing a drop knee and having their knee drop off!

quote: Originally posted by Ade: That way you only have to wand the really tricky bits and use the GPS to get between the wanded sections.

These two guys must be some sort of guides! Only they could get that worked up over AAI vs. NOLS!

I'm wondering if anyone here has knowledge of big walls in Peru.

oh yeah. all that negative energy just sucked the thoughts out of my brain. now I can remember... Dang. Is this a pattern, or what!?! Last winter I too was stumbling in the chaos of a broken relationship... but the awesome thing was tat it rocket thrust me out into adventure, making me goat things I never thought I'd be able to do. I never tried! No longer tethered to a girlfriend, I busted a move and got shit done! Now, after a spring and summer of fun and adventure, I find myselfin the numerics lab fussing over stupid math shit that just makes me grumpy! My new home town of Boulder has awesome climbing and skiing opportunities for those that can stomach theboulder scene (it takes a strong stomach, let me tell you!) Winter break is here and it's time to go skiing!Some personal highlights from last year: -climbing hard with my best friend who had just a year ago been in chemo and rad therapy. Fucking awesome.-Night shift on a fire near chelan. Morning has never been so calm and beutiful.-Hanging out in Cochise stronghold with nowhere to be for three months. While i didn't stay that long, that was the first time I realized "you have no plans for the immediate future" How refreshing! And the stronghold just kicks ass!-climbing with my highschool teacher/climbing partner and talking shit about what has happened in the last six years. I'll always be thankful for his guidance. He's another one of those older guys that kicks ass! I'm excited to hear from more people about what made their year. Keep it coming! dave brannon

[ 12-21-2001: Message edited by: max ]

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP. Oh my! Aren't we all so impressive! "I went here, and I did this, and look at me." Oh shut the shit. The thing is, I like hearing about what people are doing and have done. I like hearing about the first time somebody get scared as shit on a slab climb. I remeber what that was like and it brings a smile to my face to be reminded. I like hearing about people headed for SA. I want to go there. It makes me dream. Just clam up, will ya? quote: Originally posted by RURP:Where was RURP last year at this time? Who cares. But for those who do, it had something to do with a BIG WALL.RURP has spoken.[/QB] So you're modest and all, but you still have to tell us you were climbing a big wall (somewhere misterious) in the winter. Nobody get excited 'cause RURP's too cool to accept praise. sorry man, you attitude bugs me. dave brannon

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP. You guys are all groupies. You read about these people in magazines and now they are all your "friends". Did you hear the news? Timmy cut his finger and now he can't go climbing for a while! And Beth just climbed a crack that is really hard for girls! And Todd and Paul are quite the gang! I need no other heroes then myself striving to do my Big Wall best.RURP has spoken. BURP: Your yabber about how lame everyone is for being groupies is at least as lame as being a groupie! Get of ya' fuckin high horse! Also make sure to check out how much you bug me in "Where were you a year ago? And now?" later. Nice name, by the way. (honesty) That isn't bragging about your "big wall experience", is it? (sarcasm) dave brannon

quote: Originally posted by sisu suomi: My John Thomas. Is this one of those smoldering white gas hand warmers? I've described this to many lower-48 gear store lackies, only to be told "that sounds crazy. No one makes such a thing!" dumbass!

blue, yellow, and orange tcu's. Don't these guys just make you thikn of soaring finger cracks that suck up our fingers like that cute 18 y... woops. I like tcu's. speaking of cheap/light/versitile: I like my sneakers. They're comfy and eat shit non-stop. max

Two things. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Hmm lemme see :Some people are assholes enought that they deserve all hostility I can possible brew up. Plus some more. -CPT So, by your own logic, you (an asshole, verify-able by nearly all on cc.com) deserve all hostility (being moderated and or booted) that may be brewed up. Hmm, truth hurts, huh? quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Hmm lemme see :You can say what you want Erik but shit is moderated on a basis of whether or not you are liked by someone else period. -CPT I think what this comes down to is a moderator is willing to put up with some abberations from everyone, but when someone continually spews worthless shit, they get cut off. IMHO, you should have been booted a long time ago, butthats why I'm not a moderator of cc.com dave brannon

12/13/01 As of December 13, 2001. The Ouray Ice Park is open for 2001/2002. The new South Park Climbs all saw first ascents this morning. The upper gorge is in great shape but the lower gorge needs one more week of water. Temps are cold (Daytime highs of 15 degrees and nightime lows of -5 below.) The climbing will be getting better and better over the next week. Most of the climbs surrounding Ouray have come in. Climbing in the skylight area is great right now. All of the climbs are in and the ice is thicker than usual. The Ribbon and Birdbrain are not in. After 2-4 feet of new snow on Thanksgiving many new smears and unclimbed routes are appearing on Southern aspects. Avalanche condition in Ouray remain Considerable particularly on Northern and Northeastern facing slopes. High winds and 6-12 inches of new snow friday along with cold temperatures are not allowing the snowpack to stabilize. In Eureka Stairway to Heaven is in. The first pitch of Whorehouse Hose is in but the second ramp is unclimbable. The ice is in great condition on both climbs. All other Eureka climbs are in. South Mineral most climbs are in but have lengthy approaches. The 14 new climbs in the South Park area are forming up nicely.Gravity's Rainbow, Kennedy's and Horsetail are in but thin. Dexter Slabs is in. In Telluride - Ames Fall is in. Ames Ice Hose is in with a thin first pitch. Bridal Veil Falls is formed. This message will be updated daily and weekly depending on if I'm climbing or not. Thanks for your patience with our website. Erin Eddy, President, Ouray Ice Park Inc.

"bigot" "racist" Give me a break. These guys aren't. Look back through their posts (especially l.b's) and you'll eat your words (or else maybe YOU'LL just close your eyes! And even if someone does make generalizations about particular nationalities, isn't it possible they are GENERALLY true? Do we throw out statistics 'cause they're "not nice". "Those statisitcs make me feel bad... I want cuddly bear... WAAAAAA!" Give me a break. And even if they're not true, you can't say Americans don't get shit-on generalizations too. I say it's a rough world, buck up! If you can't handle some lip from somebody, you're probably not cut out to be a world traveler/climber. The idea of being able to climb el cap and not being able to handle being labeled/generalized/sterotyped is silly!

My opinion: 1. If your primarily interested in sliding, get the at boots. Plastic mountaineering boots suck for control and comfort. They just don't mold the foot well enough. 2. If you interested in using as approach for climbs, MAYBE get plastic mountaineering boots. I say maybe since if you already have a pair of beefy leather climbing boots, use those for approaches. This hints at my bias towards good leather climbing boots, but the jist of the story is that plastic boots suck for skiing in, and I don't think they're that great for most climbing situations! Bottom line: Unless you plan on a serious amount of snow slogging or doing something BIG and COLD, skip the plastics and go for AT boots. PS: good call on the at gear! telemark: french for "snob" max

worse.

even though the link I've pasted above might look like it doesn't wok, it does. so try it.

ACT QUICK! Sierra Trading post has Silvretta 404's (I think....) for 200 even. GOOD DEAL! I just got their catalouge yesterday, so they still have them. http://www.sierratradingpost.com/product.asp?base%5Fno=71930&str%5Fbase%5Fno=71507%2C71509%2C71620%2C71622%2C71626%2C71629%2C71630%2C71918%2C71923%2C71927%2C71928%2C71929%2C71930%2 C72100%2C72101%2C72102%2C72103%2C72201%2C72206%2C72302%2C&header%5Ftitle=&page%5Fname=prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp&search%5Ftype=L1%7E365&size1=&size2=&gender=0&ShowImages=yes&sq=80 &cont=1&intPgNo=5&mscssid=797C37N9SW129JUN550RS56KN8H3D1S0. Now all you anti-AT people out there, just hold the lip! All I want to say is I've had great sucsess with AT and the setup works well for mountainerring and ice. I can't vouch for the 404's, but I can say their next ones up.. I think the EZ-go's work great. max

Alright. I'm retarded. http://9news.com/newsroom/13910.html

http://www.csac.org/Incidents/1999-00/19991218-Colo.html From what I've heard, this guy was in the Yankee Doodle Lakes area. I've been told it's an "only ski it in the spring" type of place. You've been there?

Jayb: Went up to Butler's Gulch a.k.a. ButtCrack today. Sweet foot deep powder, not TOO many people, and AWESOME bluebird skies! We skiied up to a little peak at the head of butler's, droppped down, then came back for another half run. Good stuff. We started to do a Rucshblock on the left side of the draw, but desided we'd seen all we need to know when it collapsed before we even finish diggin it! Luckly, it seems like there's enough low angle and tree runs to still safely ski there. Awesome day! I-70 was a bit of nut-house, but who cares!

quote: Originally posted by Wallstein: I think the key to performing on such physically demanding climbs is eating the correct foods and consuming enough calories. I am a real believer in gu after doing numerous routes where that was my main food intake for over 2 days. I could see my partners bonking when they were low on fuel. This caused them to not only move slower but to have a much more negative attitude. I think mental conditioning is also very important to suceeding on long hard climbs. Mental conditioning started for me at a young age when I would procrastinate so much that I would be up all night doing my homework. I like. Food is good! A did a little climbing with another guy on this board. Watching him, I realized how much better a trip is with good food. So we always stoppped at the IGA (?) in Squamish and picked up chocolate crossaints and pizza bagels! And on more adventurous alpine trips, keeping good snack food around has made me much happier and made me perform much better! Homework! yeah, there's nothing like finishing up a brutal night in the lab at 2 am, staggering home or to the bars, and remenicing of vector spaces and the euclidian norm over a few drinks! Love it! Masocism at its best!