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My eye's aren't good, not to mention I'm retarded. So can someone tell me if the line at midslope on the snow is the crown of a slide? Isn't this pretty steep for such a slide? Anyone have any real information about this?

From reading a post in the Olympics form, I started to think about ribboning obscure routes. Initially, I'd say it has it's place, but maybe should be left out of remote places. Then I realized remote is a relative term, and decided in respect of others, it just shouldn't be out there. Sucks though, cause it seems some sort of marking has really helped in past several times.

Obviously it's not useful as a guidebook, but http://www.climbingjtree.com has some good pictures...

And it's here in spray. multipitch, trad, 5.8/5.9. Looks classic. The rest of the beta is here

Climb: Colorado!? WTF?!-Indian Peaks Wilderness Date of Climb: 2/13/2004 Trip Report: Friday i didn't have any classes. Went up to indian peaks and dinked around. I wanted to check out these "peaks" for a potential ski/climb the next day. It was a gorgeous day and to be out in the sun and breathing hard! The funny thing is (yeah, real haha-like) is that thursday's lecture was about orthographic inertial gravity waves. The next day we made a slight change plans. My friend wanted to check this place out, but I was a little nervous about the avy forcast. We went up with the agrement of a no-haggle turn-around (sounds like the John Elway "No Haggle Low Prices". How does a multi-superbowl winner become a car salesaman? Weird.) Anyways, I watched the snow and terrain and felt fine. I don't like messing with avalanche danger. We skinned up onto the shoulder of Skyskraper peak and were blasted! with serious winds. THis was right on the divide and really felt the force! We quickly ditched the skins and hit it. Found this from the way up. Got back to the creek and trail, kicked for about 20, skated for another 20, had a sip of warm coffee at the car, and finished up a memorable day in the mountains. I'm not a crazy skier, but this still kicked ass.

I thumbed the leavenworth section of the Rcok Climbing Washington and picked out (most of) the 5.9 crack/face climbing typical of the pitch in question (ok, I'm GOING to do this and I may have to relax some perameters...) -Poison Ivcy Crack. Same. -Black Sheets of Rain. Ok, this is obviously not a traversing crack climb, but it is at least worth pointing out BSoR is much harder and WAY scarier! So this one counnts as Harder. -Deception. Shorter and no harder, and no real gear issues. I'd say the same. -Orbit. Just a bit harder climbing (just a tiny amount) and similar amuunts of it. The Same. _lightning Crack at peshastin. OK, this ones 5.8, but I think the little roof thing one the first pitch is much more scary and nervy than OS. So Like Black sheets of rain, Harder. So what's this add up to? (looking at this list, I want to say "not much") ANyways, Considering Lightning crack was thre only crack climb I could think of that was comperably graded and harder, and that climb is definately one-move-wonder material, AND, I seem to find steeper climbs less problematic than my peers. SO I's say OS is grade just fine. Now, squamish. I've got a sheet of paper listing most of my squamish climbs. Again, only the similar climbs (mostly, not sport or slabs...) -Mushroom. Harder. -A cream of White Mice. Harder. Just a bit. -Lybia sucks. Shorter, same, maybe just a bnit harder. Same. -Clandestine Affair Harder. -Penny Lane. Same. Maybe a just a bit easier. -JHoes Crack. Harder. So, 1. The squamish soft grades... I'd still have to say I think squamish is soft, but that's not what these examples say (of course, for a more statisticly powerful test, we need more than one L'worth climb. 2. I feel combining the result that squam 5.9's are generally harder than OS and that squam 5.9's seem "soft" to me, I'd say OS is overrated, that is, easier than it's rated.

I think it's safe to say that the recently developed potential for SERIOUS rockfall makes this climb no longer "the best climb of the grade in the valley."

From a technical standpoint this is explained by conservation of angular momentum, or for you meterioogogists out there, conservation of vorticity

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I was told by a "knowledgable sales person" that these new lightweight bags should be kept away from waterproof breathable treatments because the W/B agent will eventually get to the down and be (very efficiently) wicked away into the down, where it decreases the loft of your sleeping bag. Seem reasonable to me, but I sure can't say I've ever seen this or have any proof what so ever. I just realized your post isn't really specific to lightweight bags, but I guess the above would apply to warm bags too.

I very vividly remember driving back from shuksan late and swerving when I mistook one of the road stipes for a jack rabbit. It totally looked like a rabit! Night driving+tired=crazy

Skaha about five years ago: I just led a 5.8(?) to the right of.... shit. I led some skaha 5.8, anchored myself, got off belay, set up a rap, and had just started down when my partner yelled "What are you doing!?!" I responded with "rapping. what's it look like?" (or something equally indignant) Then she pointed out I had only ten feet or so of rope on one side of my rap setup. Somehow I'd fucked up it up and was just about to take a 40 footer backwards shit-your-pants style. What a wakeup! The thing that strikes me about the whole thing is how it's sickening how close I came... nothing but dumb luck (and my partner's watching!) kept me from... spat city. yuck.

My father took this picture, but I'll post it 'cause he's too un-teched. This one I did take. San Cristobal, Chiapas MX

I recently purchased a LaFuma Warm 'n Light 800. This is a great bag at an even better price. Previously I'd looked at a "light is right" type bag for biking and rock climbing, but I just couldn't justify the price and honestly, the bargin shopping. But an upcoming bike trip to the SW piqued my interest just enough... I like how LaFuma "rates" their bags. Using this bag as an example, they say +40 is comfortable, +35 is reasonable, +30 is cold. Ok, bag ratings are as subjective as climb ratings (maybe even more so!), but judging by the loft of the bag (800 fill down) and a few other "warm" features, these seem right for what I'd want in that temp range. The bag weights 1 lb. 13 oz. (+/- a few oz), has a light nylon shell (no w/b shit here. It's light!), head/neck elastic draw cord, medium gauge two way zipper w/ pull cord, small velcro zipper flap with nice "get the fuck out of my way" flap holder, "stash" pocket at the top of the zipper, and the thing packs small! Best thing of all is the price! I bought this at Neptunes in Boulder, so you know I didn't get any deal. No sale. Price: $125. I bet MEC's got something comperable and bargin shopping... yech. I've never owned any lafuma stuff, but I've seen other examples of their products and prices and it seems they make a pretty reasonably price, mid quality/features/design range. I like to seem this.

Nice.

http://neic.usgs.gov/neis/bulletin/02_EVENTS/EQ_021103/ak_animation.html This is pretty cool. Just pay attention.

uh, I think "the literature" says something about 2x the height... 2.5x? You know, dominoe type shit.

so what makes a scientist a scientist? A PH.D? he's got one. Just because it looks badly upon scientists, doesn't mean he is not a scientist. Ever heard of a vita ? I'm not trying to convince anyone of your dumbassery, but I can say for sure that anyone that is involved in real research who happens to read your rant will immediately be able to tell you don't know shit about how research works. It's just obvious.

Saw a Granite gear day pack yesterday and thought it looked pretty trick. Seemed like it was about the right size for a long bc day, long quick hike/climb. Light wieght and no frils, and $75 on sale. Anybody know about these?

Best Approach: DNR helitac, Bell 205++. 40 minute flight one way from Loomis heliport to helispot 24 (ahanola pass), 4 hour hike to cathedral. Daily re-supplies @ 0900. Hiding your rack in your line gear is your own problem to figure out. Seriously, the chewuck/longswamp/tungsten mine works pretty well. One long day and you're there, relatively flat, but possibly closed next year 'cause those god damn fire people love to tear shit up!

I hate to be a dork and bring this one up again... I cjecked out the chelan SAR web page and din{t really see anything addressing this issue. Maybe I missed it. What else can you tell me and what do you mean by "needed to be reeled in?" thanks

Does anybody know what{s going on with the CHelan COunty SAR posse? I heard some rumor about the tech rescue posse going away and it seems like the last ime Iwas in wenatchee I saw a sign about something like the sherrif was looking for volunteers? Am just making stuff up here or is there something Chelan COunty Climbers should know?

I was just talking with a fellow student who works at NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology) and he told me they have an "atomic" clock at NIST that had to be re-calibrated when moved from the basement to the third floor due to a difference in gravity and hence a difference in relativistic effect! Holy Shit!

i did it without oxygen she tried it w/o ou\xygen and I got arrested for attemped murder!