dberdinka

:tup: THE VIDEO IS VERY, VERY COOL :tup:

Clearly we all need to exhibit a little more humility like Mr Semple and Mr Twit. to wit: "Semplicity is the cyber-portal into the brain of Scott Semple. Topics range widely, but the ranting is usually limited to common themes: Scott’s pursuit of — and others’ disregard for — quality, effectiveness, and (most powerful of all) efficiency, in work, play and life." What a bag of dicks...

Wrong tower. That's April Fools. Having been on Tarkis as well a long time ago there's some real nice potential on that face as well.

While contemplating an old Leavenworth Guidebook the other night I was reminded of the fact I always wanted to climb the east face of Easter Tower up by Snow Creek Wall. Three pitches ending with a stellar looking finger crack. Unfortunately for as long as I can remember the climb has always appeared to be absolutely filthy to point of being unclimbable (large amounts of greenery on the first pitch). IS that still the case? Anyone every climb it? Clenaed up it looks like it could be a real classic.

Owning the distinct honor of having the easiest route ever mentioned in the Alpinist Newswire I think they'll pick up just about anything that happens in the alpine as long as you have a pretty photo to go with it. Unfortunately Patagonia never came knocking on our doors with an ambassadorship. Guess we should have rated it 10+ r M5......

His handle does suggest that he likes dick in front of his face....

Thanks for the information, hope you make a full and quick recovery. The first/second-person writes up regarding accidents this summer have been a really amazing addition to the website. They're all apreciated!

Saw the following pic from Sunday on the internet.... http://www.alpinestateofmind.com/Adventures/Mount-Baker-2009/9858019_b8jir#670651699_3nPzh-A-LB

Lettermans now a douchebag John Ensign. There's a scumbag Republican Senator abuses power to cover up affair (with female) "Early last year, Senator John Ensign contacted a small circle of political and corporate supporters back home in Nevada...seeking work for a close friend and top Washington aide, Douglas Hampton. The job pitch left out one salient fact: the senator was having an affair with Mr. Hampton’s wife, Cynthia, a campaign aide. In the coming months, the senator arranged for Mr. Hampton to join a political consulting firm .... Mr. Ensign and his staff then repeatedly intervened on the companies’ behalf with federal agencies, often after urging from Mr. Hampton."

Huh?

If you Seattle folk wonder what the hell I'm talking about...it appears the 'Ham has it's own homegrowm patriots..... Bellinghams very own teabaggers These things are farking everywhere....

I donh't think it's related to this http://www.wethepeople.gov/

...can't form a complete thought? WTF is this stuff? It keeps popping up all over my neighborhood. I'm presuming it's somne secret teabagger code for disaffected middle-class, middle-aged white men angered at the loss of their perceived station in the social hierarchy. Help me out?

Very nice. I've seen that poster hanging in the occasional gas station/country store out along Hwy20. Four comments I honestly think the large landmass in back right is intended to be Vancouver Island with the San Juans being some slight green stuff just left of Baker. Hannegan Peak is mislabeled. Teh actual Hannegan Peak is straight right of Ruth. What you have marked is a subsummit of Sefrit Between Buckindy and Chavel I think you have White Chuck (you can tell because he included the little NW summit just to the right of the peak) Fallen Angel is just left of the yellow circle below Marblemount, so... the yellow circle must be Big Devil? You might add Sauk Mountain as well. Its directly above Marblemount

Hall Peak is nothing special but there is a ton of ice on that thing and the access is ridiculously easy, maybe an hour from car to roping up. This looks pretty and accessible

Sometimes, not all the time, when rappelling or even belaying the rope will go absolutely nuts with twists. As you reach the ends there will be this massive clusterf%$k of corkscrewed rope. What happened? I don't think my technique is changing at all but clearly the rope is getting twisted as it passes through the rappell/belay device. I'm always using the same rap device (BD thingy) I'm curious what rappel method minimizes the twisting of ropes. Any suggestions?

At first you follow the exposed ridgecrest including a really cool handcrack through a roof. Right before the summit you end up climbing down and around the west side of some pinnacles. The final bit to the summit might have some wide cracks but nothing that requires the Oh-dubya~!ing. I think gear to a #3 Camalot was entirely adequate.

Really nice photos as usual. Based on TRs and Select guidebook descriptions no one seems to do the ridge finish to the climb. I did it a couple years ago as a completion to a different route and found it to be really fun and asthetic. Highly recommended and much better than the usual ledge traverse-to-wide cracks IMO. You might edit your beta photo as well. You access the ridge climb at the flat shoulder in sunshine about halfway between the words "Cracks/Flakes - 5.8" and "Ridge Option - 5.7"

While definitely true I think the more important point is you DO NOT NEED a big cold snap to bring routes into condition. I did several high quality ice or mixed routes that winter when freezing levels were and had been quite high (higher than us) and encountered excellent, stable conditions (just stay out of the sun ).

You're trying to hard. The rule of thumb these days is if you can't google it then it's a first ascent. Congratulations.

It never got very cold that winter There were several massive pineapple express' that melted the shit out of whatever snow had fallen. Freezing levels were consisently high. I would bet Lillooet sucked that winter. My take away from that winter was good winter climbing in the Cascades is more dependant on warm weather and limited snowfall than it is on cold weather. It doesn't make any sense I know but less snowfall means easier access and less filled in features, you need the warm weather to melt the snow that does fall to form waterice and if you get a few clear nights it will be cold enough to freeze up.

Was this the scenic approach to CS gulley? Or the only approach?

I always figured there had to be an easier way...... Thanks Rad.

You're my new hero! Nice photos, in fact the best I've ever seen of SQW. You've got some knowledge there that many people (including myself) would like to have.

Maybe a little more detail helps.... 1)go to your gallery on cc.com and find the photo you want. 2)Right-click on the photo 3)Click on "Properties" in the resulting drop down menu 4)Highlight the Address (holding down right mouse key) then select Copy 5)Paste the address in between the tags with no spaces in your TR. Sort of a headache particularly with multiple photos. I like all the photos of Chickenshit Gulley. Looks fun!