dberdinka

Go Google "Arresting a self belayed fall: A Comparison of Hitches and Ascenders". Basically a fall factor of 1 will cut the sheath but not the mantle. The only time you're ever going to get even close to a FF of 1 is as you approach the anchor. It's pretty easy to jug up to an anchor and have a bunch of slack in your system (mantelling or stepping up on a nice comfy ledge) So...I'm. Always extra careful to keep all slack out of the system and clip in as quickly as possible directly to it. Common sense I guess but there's a good reason for it. I use a Mini, they're handy for many things.

Please delete this post before Billcoe sees it. Thanks.

I ment ugly in a good way. I still think Blake better watch his back.

Kim Schmitz is man, man! And a big ugly looking one at that. He might kick your ass for calling him a girl.

But Thin Red Line isn't a VI?

Some sort of trick question. NW, excluding BC apparently, the only 2 grade VIs aren't it so maybe some old Beckey aid line on the Elephants Perch in the Sawtooths of Idaho. Seems like somthing like Curtis Ridge might be considered a VI due to difficulty, commitment etc. Though thinking like that...Les McDonald in the early 60's climbed Nooksack Tower, traversed Nooksack Ridge to the summit of Shuksan then "descended" by traversing Jagged Ridge to Seapho Peak. Definitely Grade VI and I bet totally unrepeated.

All the cams are used but in good condition, they came right off my rack. None are tweaked, they all have excellent trigger action, I don't take big whippers. Located in B'ham. Shipping is at cost. If you want to pay via paypal add 4%. I'll prioritize sales by quantity and sell all the cams and lockers for $95.00 Please PM or e-mail if you must dberdinka AT gmail DOT com All cams & biners sold enmass. Thanks for looking 2 Figure 8s - $6 each

I think Tom failed to point out that... This was probably the highest unclimbed summit in the Cascades (est. of prominence Tom?) It's the only summit that can only be climbed under winter conditions. While certainly arguable, if it's not the hardest summit to reach it's gotta be in the top ...3?

A little more than 2 years ago "Trophy Wife" was a beautiful clean streak surrounded by deep, deep carpets of moss. Given its isolated location it's not surprising it' gone back to nature. What a shame considering what a great pitch it is.

Thats so bad ass. Nice work.

Josh, you totally rock. Way to get after it!

How do the capitalists increase their capital in a zero-growth economy? Is that the core of the problem? ...random thought....

I've only experienced massive inconsistency from every manufacturer I've tried. I had a couple Sterling Marathons I loved, my latest seems to be falling apart quicker though. Once had a great Mammut Galaxy replaced by a total piece of crap Galaxy. My first pair of Edelrid Twins lasted for years, on my second pair the sheath starting slipping all over after occasional use. Big crap shoot. Though I'm liking my $95 special New England Rope right now.

Climbed the Dragon on Sunday. First pitch and a half was soaked everything else was bone dry. 1st pitch of DH was drenched but the 2nd pitch was definitely good to go. This was immediately after a day of hard rain. Basically I think Index is not experiencing the typical amount of winter seepage that normally occurs due to the dry winter. Hence everything is drying out quickly.

probably about the same time the quality went downhill. Bunch of their signature designs went from being full functional and rad to cute but useless about 2-3 years ago.

OH NOS ITS GONE!

LTW?? or UTW??

This demands resurrection as the best story ever on this site...

Sounds like it's your belayer who needs to watch out.....but you're probably soloing...

That picture has been scientifically designed by a team of 20 psychologists to suck your eyeballs right down her cleavage. It works!

All biners are used, never dropped and in working order. Cam works great. In B'ham or $4.95 for flat rate USPS. Petzl Williams Locker $6 10 Black Diamond Ovals $22 7 Misc Lockers $20 #3 Metolius TCU $18 Buy it all for $60. PM or e-mail dberdinka AT gmail DOT com, will favor whom ever wants the most of it.

Then presumably you are equally offended by every route in Darrington as well?

No point in fucking up a bunch of other planets.

Reillys post about his FA (Ulf's Arete) on Constance was awesome. Amazing looking route....

Bug! I just feel the need to point out that your issue is a prime example of the second half of Luckys post..(not that I'm claiming your frustrated just that your vague) Whats willy-nilly? When is a bolt OK in wilderness? When isn't it?