dberdinka

But Thin Red Line isn't a VI?

Some sort of trick question. NW, excluding BC apparently, the only 2 grade VIs aren't it so maybe some old Beckey aid line on the Elephants Perch in the Sawtooths of Idaho. Seems like somthing like Curtis Ridge might be considered a VI due to difficulty, commitment etc. Though thinking like that...Les McDonald in the early 60's climbed Nooksack Tower, traversed Nooksack Ridge to the summit of Shuksan then "descended" by traversing Jagged Ridge to Seapho Peak. Definitely Grade VI and I bet totally unrepeated.

All the cams are used but in good condition, they came right off my rack. None are tweaked, they all have excellent trigger action, I don't take big whippers. Located in B'ham. Shipping is at cost. If you want to pay via paypal add 4%. I'll prioritize sales by quantity and sell all the cams and lockers for $95.00 Please PM or e-mail if you must dberdinka AT gmail DOT com All cams & biners sold enmass. Thanks for looking 2 Figure 8s - $6 each

I think Tom failed to point out that... This was probably the highest unclimbed summit in the Cascades (est. of prominence Tom?) It's the only summit that can only be climbed under winter conditions. While certainly arguable, if it's not the hardest summit to reach it's gotta be in the top ...3?

A little more than 2 years ago "Trophy Wife" was a beautiful clean streak surrounded by deep, deep carpets of moss. Given its isolated location it's not surprising it' gone back to nature. What a shame considering what a great pitch it is.

Thats so bad ass. Nice work.

Josh, you totally rock. Way to get after it!

How do the capitalists increase their capital in a zero-growth economy? Is that the core of the problem? ...random thought....

I've only experienced massive inconsistency from every manufacturer I've tried. I had a couple Sterling Marathons I loved, my latest seems to be falling apart quicker though. Once had a great Mammut Galaxy replaced by a total piece of crap Galaxy. My first pair of Edelrid Twins lasted for years, on my second pair the sheath starting slipping all over after occasional use. Big crap shoot. Though I'm liking my $95 special New England Rope right now.

Climbed the Dragon on Sunday. First pitch and a half was soaked everything else was bone dry. 1st pitch of DH was drenched but the 2nd pitch was definitely good to go. This was immediately after a day of hard rain. Basically I think Index is not experiencing the typical amount of winter seepage that normally occurs due to the dry winter. Hence everything is drying out quickly.

probably about the same time the quality went downhill. Bunch of their signature designs went from being full functional and rad to cute but useless about 2-3 years ago.

OH NOS ITS GONE!

LTW?? or UTW??

This demands resurrection as the best story ever on this site...

Sounds like it's your belayer who needs to watch out.....but you're probably soloing...

That picture has been scientifically designed by a team of 20 psychologists to suck your eyeballs right down her cleavage. It works!

All biners are used, never dropped and in working order. Cam works great. In B'ham or $4.95 for flat rate USPS. Petzl Williams Locker $6 10 Black Diamond Ovals $22 7 Misc Lockers $20 #3 Metolius TCU $18 Buy it all for $60. PM or e-mail dberdinka AT gmail DOT com, will favor whom ever wants the most of it.

Then presumably you are equally offended by every route in Darrington as well?

No point in fucking up a bunch of other planets.

Reillys post about his FA (Ulf's Arete) on Constance was awesome. Amazing looking route....

Bug! I just feel the need to point out that your issue is a prime example of the second half of Luckys post..(not that I'm claiming your frustrated just that your vague) Whats willy-nilly? When is a bolt OK in wilderness? When isn't it?

I'm curious if some of the more vocal opponents of IB here can articulate their feelings about Dave Whitelaw's "Slab Daddy". Of similar length, difficulty, bolted-ness and also located in a Wilderness Area. Of course the primary difference is that it was established with hand drills. You note that even the dreaded LW had some involvement! Clearly Raindawg is simply pushing his strongest single arguement against IB. I'm sure he would have found a hand drilled IB equally objectionable. I think Bug is claiming that bolts qualify as "structures" as described in the Wilderness Act. So whats ok and what isn't under the rules of "willy-nilly"? Tvash are you indifferent to power drills? or against bolts in Wilderness areas? Ultimately I don't see a lot of clarity if the issues people have is with the bolts or the method of placements. As the D-town Crew has shown is is entirely possible to construct, using hand drills, LOTS of long, heavily bolted rock climbs. All it takes is experience, practice and dedication. The fact it when putting up a "crag" style route in the mountains of Western Washington, getting there, cleaning the route and Tr'ing pretty much relegate you to about a pitch-a-day regardless of how you're drilling. As Whitelaw mentions in his article, he and his compadres can handrill a 3/8" hole in 6-10 minutes, whereas a powerdrill takes less than a minute. But if it took you 3 hours to get to your high point, another 4 hours of cleaning plus an hour of Tr'ing, and now you need to place 8 bolts, what difference does it make if one guy could powerbolt it in 15 minutes or two guys could handrill it in just over an hour? My expectation is your going to see a lot more drilling in the future, particularly hand drilling as people discover that it's not the impossibilitly that we've (I've) assumed. How are you going to feel about that? One more aside, both D-town and IB are examples of "Wilderness" (with a capital W) areas where the boundaries are defined by elevation so that the valleys themselves can have roads punched up them so the forest can be clearcut whereas the economically useless "rocks and ice" can be protected. I'd guess a lot of crgas and potential crags are found in a similar situation. Tvash. The ban is on "Motorized" equipment. So anything with a spinning hard drive (think ipods) are banned in wilderness areas. Though I concede a signiifcant difference bewteen ipods and rotary hammers.

I've got a pair mounted on 190cm Fischer Outtabounds. If you weigh at least 170lbs it's a nice setup. I live in Bellingham. PM me if interested. Darin

For all the bitchin on the internet about it I thought Condermoraphine was pretty darn good! Plenty of bolts yes but not the bolted monstrosity it had been routinely described as. Presumably IB is not much different.

WOW! And to have my words turned on me like that. Oh my goodness! What a powerful arguement! Presuming one were to believe that placing a bolt and cutting down old trees having...well...absolutely anything in common. Purpose, visibility, enviromental impact, moral equivalence. You and your buddy are a joke.