dberdinka

Really nice photos as usual. Based on TRs and Select guidebook descriptions no one seems to do the ridge finish to the climb. I did it a couple years ago as a completion to a different route and found it to be really fun and asthetic. Highly recommended and much better than the usual ledge traverse-to-wide cracks IMO. You might edit your beta photo as well. You access the ridge climb at the flat shoulder in sunshine about halfway between the words "Cracks/Flakes - 5.8" and "Ridge Option - 5.7"

While definitely true I think the more important point is you DO NOT NEED a big cold snap to bring routes into condition. I did several high quality ice or mixed routes that winter when freezing levels were and had been quite high (higher than us) and encountered excellent, stable conditions (just stay out of the sun ).

You're trying to hard. The rule of thumb these days is if you can't google it then it's a first ascent. Congratulations.

It never got very cold that winter There were several massive pineapple express' that melted the shit out of whatever snow had fallen. Freezing levels were consisently high. I would bet Lillooet sucked that winter. My take away from that winter was good winter climbing in the Cascades is more dependant on warm weather and limited snowfall than it is on cold weather. It doesn't make any sense I know but less snowfall means easier access and less filled in features, you need the warm weather to melt the snow that does fall to form waterice and if you get a few clear nights it will be cold enough to freeze up.

Was this the scenic approach to CS gulley? Or the only approach?

I always figured there had to be an easier way...... Thanks Rad.

You're my new hero! Nice photos, in fact the best I've ever seen of SQW. You've got some knowledge there that many people (including myself) would like to have.

Maybe a little more detail helps.... 1)go to your gallery on cc.com and find the photo you want. 2)Right-click on the photo 3)Click on "Properties" in the resulting drop down menu 4)Highlight the Address (holding down right mouse key) then select Copy 5)Paste the address in between the tags with no spaces in your TR. Sort of a headache particularly with multiple photos. I like all the photos of Chickenshit Gulley. Looks fun!

Haven't been in there lately but this local guy does some beautiful stuff with Baker. http://www.brettbaunton.com/index.html

Dude I'm no badass. I'm a solid 5.9 climber! I agree with Pete. I don't know you but I read your TRs and you've apparently come a long way from this.... Aiding CBR Soloing OS is one thing, soloing it after a full-on beat-down day like that....ANOTHER! My hats off to you but fess up, where's the motivation coming from!?

Yours sucked too......

Based on what? Seems like kids find plenty of shit to beat each up over with. But you presume because he's black he must be full of hate towards white kids. Why are you such a racist? Was it inborn?

No need to get all menstrual on these dudes. They got old gear. Big deal. It's cool they're still out there climbing. I can't imagine anyone getting to worked up about a few pin scars on that pile and maybe he didn't want to give you his name because he thought you were a douche bag.

yes, yes let us all wring our hands and shed a tear for this simple criminal. In all likelyhood he was probably just trying to support his addiction to meth or whatever, and hey! that's a disease right! Certainly we can't hold that against him nor the actions it led him too. Cause really if we just gave him a 2nd or 122nd chance I'm sure he'd have a lot to contribute to society. Sorry there's just a certain element of this society that gets (or should get) what they deserve. Maybe you are still young enough not to be jaded but at a certain point you get fed up with....the heroin addicts in the rental down the street who dumped a box of used needles where the neighbors kids could have gotten into them....or the methheads who put up shop across the alley from where your kid went to daycare. If this guy wanted to avoid getting hurt or killed maybe be shouldn't have been stealing peoples shit. Plenty of reasons not to live in Saudi Arabia but say what you will I bet they have a ridiculously low crime rate!

Let a few more criminals get the chop like that and maybe the lowlifes and scumbags that seem to be propogating like bunnies in this country would be less inclined to screw with the rest of us who are minding our own business and just getting through the day.

Are you serious? Fill us in on the details! 1) I can't believe that ahole got out on a $100k bail 2) what the f$&k is up with people and their "gun rights"? He claims he's going to kill himself before society takes his "gun rights" away. Get a grip, there's a bit more to life than clutching your cold steel!

Looking through your gallery you certainly seem to have an affinity for the worst of cascades choss. Must say your North Face of Spectacled Butte looks like the crappiest route ever.

How'd it look when you walked by John? It's certainly much bigger than it apears in that pic.

My apologies for getting back on topic but....a camper conversion on an 2003-2008 Honda Element would be pretty sweet not to mention reliable. www.ursaminorvehicles.com

I once made some point about Bobby J being a brown Catholic in a party of white Protestants and got my shit jumped on in a hurry by KKK. Fair enough. Anyway since this is spray and FARK always cracks me up and I'm a racist...

Notice that they all presumably died on what is 3rd class terrain (conjecture regarding Triple Couloirs but 90% of that route is moderately angled snow). Consider how little of that exists at WA Pass where one is either hiking or pitching it out.

I think Justin's referring to the rockwalled hairpin corner on Hwy 542 about halfway up Pan Dome. This is a popular 50+' drop in the winter. Couple summers ago a guy on a Harley neglected to take the corner and ended up filleted on the big boulders below. Gruesome.

The fact is there are an amazing number of dead people everywhere in the Cascades. (Well not actually bodies, but you know what I mean). I just spent the weekend near a gentle barely-alpine pass full of blueberries. Even there, there was a fatality about 2 years ago when a snowmobiler was caught in a large avalanche. On Mt Shuksan I've hard of numerous deaths. A party falls of the North Face, a guy disappears on the hike out from the Price Glacier, another falls down the Fisher Chimney's in early season, an accident on the NW arete. A little to the west it seems that half-a-dozen people have diappeared on the Ptarmigan Ridge trail over the years (notorious for poor visibility in bad weather) The point is.... 6 doesn't really seem all that significant. If you really researched it I bet you'd be surprised by how many deaths have occured on practically every major mountain in the range over the years.

What the F$%K is up with these things? Seemed like half the dirtbags in Tofino this summer were rolling in one. Is it like the ultimate badge of the Canadian Trustafarian?