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layton

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Everything posted by layton

  1. I like monos on fat sticky ice - less effort. I still have an old pair of (cast iron?) sabertooths and use them in cold conditions when I have to really kick, on crappy ice where I need stability, and mixed terrain for stability (think edging) - unless the route is really slabby. So for all around, I'd agree with the sabers. they are easy to sharpen and you'd have to climb ice every day for years to wear down the points. The other thing I like about them is the aggressive 2ndary points and stability on neve and snice. On steep swiss cheesy picked out, but good ice, it's a toss up for me.
  2. layton

    Interesting...

    http://www.cnn.com/2010/HEALTH/02/26/liberals.atheists.sex.intelligence/index.html?hpt=P1
  3. oh, I've also had my clipper biner break with just normal climbing. Maybe it was an old model but it was an untrustworthy piece of shit. I use the ice clipper on my right side for screws too and waaay back on the left so I have an empty clip for my tool.
  4. I have to use the rubber band to keep the screws near the front on my harness. I'm left handed and keep most of my screws on the left and f'ing Arctyrx has the clipper so far back on the left side I can't even see the damn clipper.
  5. John, you're in the Yellow Rubber Band club too!!! I think those are still the best racking option - I use a bent gate petzl spirit biner. DANE! Do you do plastic injection molding or know what kind of rubber that was? ~10 years and still holding strong on those bands I got with my Verro harness (which BTW is still the best harness ever made).
  6. it isn't as much fun without the benzene rings
  7. Besides seam grip which is obviously the shit, what's your favorite repair type glue? Is Barge cement still the glue of choice for resoling rock shoes? What about fabric repair and patch jobs? I've always used Barge, but household Goop seems to be really really good too. My family always carried a green tube of "Duco" Cement I think it was called. Have not seen that for a long time. Can we all agree that Shoe Goo sucks ass and doesn't work for shit?
  8. can't say about your jackets (i've never owned one) but I must say your sleeping bags are simply works of fluffy art.
  9. i want these 10minutes of my life back
  10. cool I picked up the 1/4" - it's ~1mm thicker than the MEC model so I won't be a as hard of a hardman
  11. thanks I emailed Jim! I hoped to not have to buy anything canadian after I bought a box of fruit loops and ... it wasn't fucking fruit loops WTF!!!!
  12. Well it finally turned the damn thing into tatters. I'd have more insulation from laying a paper towel (or two) down right now.. ...so! It's time to get myself a new one. I got mine at MEC a long time ago, do those bastards still not ship to the us anymore? Where can I get one in the united states? http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442094583&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302701645&bmUID=1266988094351
  13. love love love mean grean - for sure in the top 10!!! NICE!
  14. Glad it's got none of that mixed f*ggotry Well done laddies, I'm sure your dad loves you now.
  15. does it top out with a the crack heading left but you do to a huge run out traverse/walk to the right?
  16. wouldn't know, i (ahem) ski at alta
  17. since grivel is back, has anyone had experience with their interesting and innovative designs in specifically: I believe these are all new, or at least new versions for this year Quantum Race X Monster Speedy Ice Screw G20 G14 Rambo Pos? Neg? Thoughts?
  18. way to ruin my wilderness experience Will...oh wait, i ruin my wilderness experience
  19. climbing leashless without umbilicals is great you should try it rapping with a 5mil tag line is perfectly acceptable falling while leading is necessary to get better taping your ice tools, that's crazy
  20. good point on the high dagger in the cold - been climbing on my prophets and cobras for so long i forgot that ice tools can be made of metal
  21. just curious, what are you guys leading that requires the tape job? I don't tape my tools since I figure I'd need to be gripping the upper shaft of my tool above the hand rest for about a minute per hold, and leading quite a bit of steep as shit mixed to have it matter? am I not supposed to be using the hand rests on the bottom and mid tool? has cc.com lead ability gotten a lot better in the last couple years?
  22. if you are too aggressive frozen shoulder can occur ... and you don't want that. physically go see someone who specializes in shoulder rehab, the interwebs advice will probably make it worse
  23. unfinished symphony at squamish
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