layton

ok, i did a few laps with different set-ups I own. Gri-gri and Shunt do not work well at all, nor would anything that doesn't let the rope slide nice and loose. It made bringing up my lower jumar horrible. I think anything that actively clamps the rope would suck, which is why that yates rocker was so nice b/c it only bit the rope if yanked on... So on a whim I attached a tiblock with a smaller/thinner spined biner to my belay loop. Worked great! Slid right up and the rope was a fat 10.5. I'll be using the tibloc from now on as my back-up. Anyone have a suggestion for a really thin spine locker or non-locker out there?

Rush is gonna have to live in a pretty shitty country since every major industrialized country has a socialized version of healthcare.

change your important passwords by adding a "1" or something to the end

thanks fern, I'll give that a try tomorrow since the weather sux here. I sincerely hate jugging, it always scares the shit out of me, but I hate tying back-up knots even more and sometimes you can't if the line's a full rope stretcher since then the next jugger can't reach the end.

Hey, A buddy of mine let me use his Yates Rocker on a recent big wall. I loved it. I never really though about using a 3rd device below the jumars, but I didn't have to tie a back-up knot and felt way secure even when the ascenders slipped. Anyway, Yates stopped making them. Does anyone have experience using this system with a)gri-gri b)petzl shunt c)petzl micocender I'm gonna try them out, but would need to order the microcender if that's the only one that really works well. I assume the gri-gri wouldn't feed smooth whatsoever and you'd have to constantly pull the rope through.

Haven't heard of that buttress- where's it at? And what's with the screamer/ice tool/cord combo?

I'll take that VBL off your hands! Do you mind shipping?

Gloria, gloria, gloria, gloria, i think I got your number, gloria! - over and over and over and over

multiple genes in monroe? looked like they shared the same one when I was there hahahahahhahhahahhahaha

hell yeah!

it feels the same to me, maybe a little stickier surface. I already spent several nights on the snow with it and was fine with the 1/4" size

Scarpa lists the new Phantom Guide as 900g and the new Phantom 6000 as 2460g. Holy crap, I hope there's a typo in there somewhere!

It's not that the approaches are long, they just look closer than they are. Grades are relative, try the crux pitch of mean green again in early dec:)-

he does appear to be having the most fun

http://www.denverpost.com/news/ci_14633690

Hope it's not gayer than "The Alps" - the fucking lamest p.o.s. i've seen in a long time

wow!!

Yes, perhaps I should contribute; here goes: Today I went to Vantage--it was SICK! On the way to Vantage I stopped at the gas station where I was like, "Should I fill up with Unleaded or Premium. Hmmmm. Well," I thought, "you only live once!" so I filled 'er up with premium unleaded...SICK! Next, I stopped in North Bend where I stopped and bought a breakfast sandwich, a cup 'o joe, and a maxipad; the sandwich was to DIE FOR; the coffee was HOT; and the maxipad, oh so soft. SICK! At Vantage I climbed a bunch of gas ass sport routes--SICK! I took 20 draws (10 with orange dog bones; 10 with pink dog bones); however, I only used 11. I also brought bigbros (did not use); balznuts (did not use); nuts (did not use); pickets (did not use), crampons (did not use), plastic boots (used only for the approach), and testicles (DID NOT USE). SICK! The drive home--SICK! Will post some pictures later. All in all a SICK day! Thanks to all my bros and hos--you guys rock; what would I do without you. Oh yeah! And props to Jane for her first lead! Super duper SICK! Sounds SUPER FUN Cheers Why buy a mattress anywhere else ding!

Maybe Darin's on to something - responses are all over the board. Dane, the petzl 9.4 is the stiff one they make, the 9.7 is more supple. I like a stiffer rope too, but the petzl kept snarling waaaay to much (and I do know how to properly uncoil a rope).

I attempted another steeper route up the NE face of Wheeler Pk in Nevada - lost 3 ropes

sure- wtf? you live in slc - i probably once knew that

What sizes of Mastercam offset would someone recommend for the Nose?

What's y'all's favorite ropes? Seems to be an item that doesn't get scrutinized too much. I used to love my Beal Stinger II (9.4mm). I replaced it with a Petzl 9.4 and found it way too stiff. I've switched to BlueWater Dominator 9.4 and love it. It's also the lighetst 9.4 out there. For twins I always have used Bluewater's Ice Floss. So far bluewater gets my vote! What's your experience/fav ropes? Petzl, PMI, Bluewater, Beal, New England, Maxim, Sterling, Mammut? I have a 9.8 that is indestructible, but can't for the life of me remember who made it? I think it's a bluewater... I had a sterling 9.1 and found it to be to stretchy on big whips, and it got chopped in 5 places on it's last trip. It's now my sketch 80' gym rope.

you're welcome to crash at my house for some ice - probably wanna wait till next year. I live 2 miles from the 3p warm-up WI3

Santaquin is 1/2 hour south of Provo and requires about an hour road walk (or 5 min snowmachine hitchhike ). It gets the full bore of late morning-early afternoon sun. Lots of HARD mixed routes in the canyon and some excellent 1-3 pitch moderates (WI3-5+)