layton

just curious, what are you guys leading that requires the tape job? I don't tape my tools since I figure I'd need to be gripping the upper shaft of my tool above the hand rest for about a minute per hold, and leading quite a bit of steep as shit mixed to have it matter? am I not supposed to be using the hand rests on the bottom and mid tool? has cc.com lead ability gotten a lot better in the last couple years?

if you are too aggressive frozen shoulder can occur ... and you don't want that. physically go see someone who specializes in shoulder rehab, the interwebs advice will probably make it worse

unfinished symphony at squamish

warthogs are great for turf! www.needlesports.com is remaking them. snargs are great for bailing since they take FOREVER to remove. Speaking of bail gear, anyone know where to get the red capped russian ti screw?

what a tool!

dane can you list the actual weight and the fill weight in your reviews?

Dude did you fully miss the point? You are still fucking wrong and talking shit on people you know nothinig about. THEY DID NOT PLACE THOSE BOLTS YOUR TALKING ABOUT. So seriously can it. As for those bolts ya I obviously don't like em but I'm not some ethical prock whos going out chopping bolts, so thats that the bolts are there end of discussion. I have no desire to bitch about bolts. I'm just trying to stand up for some friends who don't deserve to be ridiculed by someone who doesn't even know them. Since I led off from the discussion at hand heres my two cents for Marc. 50' lead bolted crag routes are kinda lame. If its super run out no one will do it and it will become a moss fest like everything. If you bolt from hooks bolts could be in the wrong places like people have been saying especially if you think its 5.12. Hand drilling on lead is great fun, and feels damn good. But where were at today in climbing save your time and energy and rap bolt a good line. Use that extra time and energy and strength you gained to go put up a sweet groud up route in a little bigger setting. But obviously if you just want practice go up and bolt it on lead with a hand drill and some hooks. Though the end product might not be as good. It's your choice thats why climbings fun. Well said!

i've had that problem.

Does than Cannon take fuzzy pics in difficult lighting positions, or does it have a pretty good image stabilizer? That's a big one for me.

Hey, I've just updated the crap out of my links page for the book's website. Does anyone have any suggestions to add on any of the topics? http://sites.google.com/site/climbingstronger/cool-climbing-links

Joseph, that's a nice camera!!!!!!!! For riggings I prefer the Osprey camera bag, small trim, slick - and use a metoliois superlight biner after losing the straps.

where the hell did they test them last night? the canyons were closed and it snowed like a foot? Or did they test them indoors?

I don't know booth numbers, but I'll be at Alpenbooks at 12:30 tomorrow (sat) signing free books. I'll also be at Cilogear "helping" out Grivel North America is back - distributed by Liberty

Avatar is soooooooooooo 1993. That nature company Fern Gully shit was cool then, but fuckign lame as shit now. And yes, I've witnessed Fern Gulley and Avatar is the EXACT same movie. What a stupid piece of shit.

radically curved

What's some new neat stuff you've seen at the OR show? Petzel's new tools obviously! Grivel is back in action: new ice ax shovel, weird draws(purpose?) Mad Rock: nice nut tool, frog-like stick clip biner I only had an hour and most was spent chit-chatting. P.s. I'll be giving out books at the book signing at Alpenbooks saturday 12:30-1:30. Stop by.

either way, if a few ounces is cramping your onsight, you're either waaaay too good or are a weak little pussy Dane, what about "dampening" on impact. Seems a denser material would offer more of a sinker "thud". Is there any difference here? I worry about ultralight crampons jingling around with my mighty blows.

Matt Perkins (MattP) is a lawyer. Dunno if he handles stuff like that, but he'd have connections at least. If someone screwed up, they should be held accountable for their part by charging you money. I'd also follow Jon's suggestion. Hopefully word spreads at the OR show this week. I couldn't imagine all the major companies not sending you enough free gear to remain in business. Smith Rock needs a climbing shop and you obviously place more than just a shops worth of orders per year - so it would be in their best interest to re-stock you. Let me know when you are refilling your bookshelves and I'll pony up.

I haven't used a bivy sack since I got my betalight tarp. Weights as much as a goretex bivy, and it your trecking poles are the support. Bomber in wind and rain as long as you don't pitch it in a depression. I don't solo winter overnights, so I'm always in a 1stlight tent.

damn fred's a media whore

Oops, I wasn't insinuating that! I was just curious since your reviews are the most thought out of any poster here.

Hey Dane, I sure looks like you've got quite a lot of interest in climbing equip/gear, and your reviews sound very helpful - especially in the ice tool dept. Where (specifically) are you testing this stuff out? And do you work in the outdoor industry? I'm curious since your reviews seem very thoughtful, I'd like to know where they are coming from.

swing by my lab, we've got 200 proof molecular grade ethanol need a place to crash? email me

some causes... Leg length inequality - anatomical (shorter bones) or functional (scoliosis, SI joint rotation) Muscle imbalance: weak hamstrings, quads (esp medial quad), gluts, TFL... or overly tight of said muscles Foot: over-pronator (causes foot to roll, hip to drop...) under-pronator (stiff foot = shock) improper shoes Poor gait a whole host of knee issues the list goes on....

you would second it and have someone lead it for you, puss.