layton

or not? either way, we're fucked http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/36769422/?GT1=43001

#7 is where it is at.

gross

oh, i'd buy three

i forgot about my other stupid tool racking idea - a biner on the jacket on the front of the shoulder.

It'd be nice if you could come up a tool clipper with no clip for quick ice tool holstering and deployment. It seems that the clip gates, opening size, and nose of these "biners" are specifically designed for ice screw, not for clipping your tool. I'm not a great mixed climber so maybe my technique is bad, but I always fiddle fuck around getting my tool in and out of the biner. I definitely like a gate on my racking biner for screws, but i wonder about it's worth for hanging ice tools. I guess i could just tape the biner back to the spine? Dane, you need to come up with some revolutionary tool holstering design. I always wished there was a huge strip of velcro or magnet on my shoulder/pec region of my shell I could just stick the tool on

any rubber bandy things to attach them to the gear loop for us lefties whose left side attachment is waaaay to far back?

That company is directly across the street, hopefully we'll get some cheap vacant office space. Oh, and so far the ruling is just on this gene patent and it is already in appeals. Myriad's reasoning for their claim was that they discovered the gene in vitro, not in vivo - but you still can (illegally as of last weak) test for it in vitro...so their argument cancels itself out. If you did full gene sequencing, you'd have to black that gene out with a sharpie to legally send out the results.

Eric and I still got folks waay better than that with our lower malamute shotcrete scam

The non-pros blow out very quickly. I'd get a trail running shoe meant for trail running or an approach shoe meant for climbing - not both. Both would be a weak running shoe that will blow out in <6 months.

you can cut out the top lid of a tupperware store box. I use this when I use my alpine pack for carrying above avg loads to a basecamp.

you know the season is over when....

anyone know when this is coming out? http://www.chesslerbooks.com/item/9234-canadian-rock-selected-climbs-of-the-west-kevin-mclane-2010.asp

They work great in basalt and compact granite and sometimes sandstone. They also don't freeze up and bite better under icy conditions when you don't want (can't) hammer a knifeblade in (or the knifeblade placement is too shallow)

not in my opinion, slider nuts cover more surface area and in a narrower placement. The tiny (size 1-3) zeros only get used (for me that is) for aid placements. these are by the same guys who make removable bolts...which are only available in 1/2" - i.e. they are useless

http://climbtech.myshopify.com/products/tech-nuts-camming-wedges-various-sizes $14 ???

I totally argree that the non-toothed devices that are designed to slip under 4kn are the best for the scenario I've discussed...in all but weight (and cost) saving. I'd get one for regular "sustained" jumaring for sure. Darin, that's a solid point, but if you did have a bunch of slack etc for those situations (doing a few free moves, mantling onto a ledge, etc) wouldn't the weight come onto your two jumars 1st? i.e. your back-up (let's say tibloc for the sake of argument) would still, even in this even, be your back-up? And Wallsteen (nice send in the jungle btw!) I thought the same thing. Why would a tibloc be any more damaging to the rope than any other toothed rope clamp like the traxions or jumars they make? I've never quite understood that. even non-toothed devices can do rope damage. I've heard of Gri-Gri's chopping ropes since they pinch down to 0.0mm. In fact, the instance I heard about was from the weight of the rope itself on a rappell chopping the rope inside the gri-gri (although I seriously doubt the validity of that claim).

no, they are like $15 or something! Plus it wasn't mine (thanks outdoor center)

looks like the traxion devices have teeth too. Anyway, the amount you would fall would be the length of a caribeener and 1/2 of a belay loop, and that would be only under a really rare fall.

That is crazy! On an off note- I placed a Russian Ti Screw three threads in in shity hollow ice, loaded up a haul bag full of rocks, and hucked if off the top of the climb 3 times. After the 3rd time the screw buckled and bent, but it was still in there!

I had the same experience with a new rope so I used it as my main rope for ~2 weeks and then it worked fine. I used a Petzl Shunt for TRing on ice and it worked awesome, but I believe it's not made anymore (why? is it sketchy?)

I seriously hope my ascenders never fail so badly that I would fall onto it. I would probably concider retiring the rope and myself if that happened. For simul climbing it would probably be more of a "hang" unless you're being extra stooopid. Still (just in theory), I bet it would only shred the sheath.

I'm still waiting on my backordered brooks-range rocket tent. 2-person, 1lb 6oz vented sailcloth that sets up with your poles and one tent pole (or any avy probe). My only beef is no netting for summer use, so I plan on making some sort of velcro mesh attachment. Downside is that it's $600, upside was knowing Mr. Brooks. I was hoping to test it out in Montana, but I still haven't gotten it yet so I'll have to demo it up at alta with a bottle of scotch and a willing girlfriend.

Anyone have any personal favorite biners they have used with a tibloc on a fatter rope. What the thinnest spined biner at bend where the tibloc would lay? So far the best biner I tested (including the Metolius micro and camp nano) was a Mammum wiregate with 0639 stamped on it I found and was using as a bail biner. I found that the diameter of the apex of the biner was important, but also the lesser curved the better. More curvy topped biners pinched the rope more since there was more of a "point" to jab into the rope. Yeah, boring shit I know... but for backing up a jumar set-up, or simul-climbing with a tiblock (Tiblocking), it would be nice to find the smoothest set-up out there.

Yeah, I'd buy the Micocender for continuous or sketchy jugging. Tibloc is the cheapest lightest option that works. I'd still rather slip onto a tiblock than 50 feet onto a back-up knot. I've always wondered what a long fall would do to a clove hitch vs. a fig-8 on a bight. Could it cut the rope on itself?