layton

The board won't let me reply to this tread? Some weird error occurs, so I'm staring a new thread. Colin a 4wd only saves you at most an extra hour of walking, probably more like a 1/2 hour. Easily soloable, the rock move at the base was easier than I though after downclimbing it. Don, we almost did that traverse just to avoid downclimbing the entire couloir (which btw, is very tedious)! The view from the top is totally worth a traverse of those peaks. You'd get awesome views all day long! I think I spotted your route on Payne. It looks more like a water ice climb right now (very thin). This area could produce some fat climbs if this cold weather holds. I'll probably come back this winter or spring.

Haven't been there, but my best guess is that you'll have no problem with snow on ingalls or the Toof. Most rock is dry right now, but cold. Ingalls would be a safer bet. Have fun.

Busy climbing, sorry. I've attemped it twice in the past two or three years so I feel the pain too. [ 11-27-2002, 12:26 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

I've concidered this too and when I get some $$, I'm gonna buy a pair of children's skiis, and screw my silvretta 303's to em. For goin' up only. I'll go down in em, but I fall on my face in the best of skiis so why bother?

Why did you even bother posting this Necronomicon? No one wants to waste their time in there. Anyone who goes there is a total pussy and can't climb anything anyway. Boy o' boy did my 4x4 hc truck have one hell of a time getting across those tank traps! Dru, did they recently gut the road? We had to park far from the climb and do some seriously steep grunting up the road. The crux of the area is a 60 degree devil's club slope up to the mtn! We almost had to abandon the truck! Not worth going back. No wonder Maxim quit climbing.

Went on a drive today, Colonial isn't quite ready yet. If it had more snow, then I'd be up there right now, but there are too many sections devoid of snow, especially getting up the avy gullies. There's a big patch of blue that's not touching just right of the face.

I'll be up there when you are till the 20th or so, my car's a Toyoto w/stickers all over the tailgate like a total gapewad. Honk, and we'll climb some shit. Possilby at Rampart Hostel, or somewhere in Canmore.

I'll be there from Dec 1-23. I'll let you know how it is when my triceps avulse from the bone.

Your all hardmen! Good job on 2002!!!! It ain't over yet though, Three Cheers to all who got off their ass

quote: Leading new route in the Twin Sisters Spray away, I wanna know 'bout it. (plus, did you get a ride up in the 'shitter')?

1. Tripple Couloirs B'ham to B'ham 2. Cuthroat E. Face Coulior 3. Direct N.Butt Bear 4. New route in B.C. Back of Beyond Buttress 5. Central Couloir on Joffre (which tied w/many other awesome rock and ice routes) BEST YEAR EVER! (and it ain't over) ...I'll be in Banff all of Dec. haha Worst Part of the Year 1.Getting my Degree and having to work 2.Working 3.Missing climbing cuz I worked 4.Not working and missing climbing 5.Aproaching Ashlu x2, Vieniesse, Bardean, Backbone ridge 3x, Colfax, Prussik x2, Baker, Shuksun, Springbox Arete, Colonial x2, Greybeard, and many many more, w/o climbing shit! [ 11-19-2002, 07:38 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

quote: N face slesse, jan'80, w perry beckham and john wittmayer. 21 rope-lengths, maybe 9 or 10 belays, bits of 70 degrees, scratchy sections, a 25-foot tunnel thru the cornice to finish. why aren't people climbing this route and arctic wing (1989; de jong, gibbs, macgregor) to the right every winter? It's on the damn list, Don! Give me a break (sob)!! It's on the list. That 2 route a winter thing is pretty much dead on right!

Do the entire beckey guide link-up in alphabetical order.

Mmmmmmmmm (slobber).... A Cinnabun ...(slobber). Doh'!

Boy does that man get outside or what?!! Well Don, or anyone, how are they? Beckey doesn't really mention how steep the individual couloirs are, etc. I looked up the Mt.Payne climbs in the CAJ and I think I'll pass on those. I'm sure Maxim would have lots o' fun posting here, we should get him to spray too.

Yeah, but if the ratings or anything changes about the climb you did from the old book to the new one, you have to do it again or it doesn't count.

Anyone done any of the couloirs on Mt.Rideout or Payne?

Since I am sick as hell and had not much else to do today, I thought I'd upload a couple neat photos from this summer. I plan on doing another slideshow one of these days before I move next year. Here's my buddy Brian on the tryrolean pitch on the Sun Ribbon Arete at Temple Crag, CA. Here's Fixed Pin following the awesome crack pitch on Chianti Spire Here's Climzalot cranking on the Direct N. Buttress of Bear Mtn -unfortuneately it's not that good of a photo Finally, here is a rare sighting of Necronomicon meditating on world peace and alpine climbing: I have a photo of myself attaining nirvana on slesse, but it's at home...instead here's a totally gay photo of me decked out in spandex in my first race and first time x-country skiing. No jerking off... And you asked for it, even though it's in 3 different guidebooks now...the topo for Bear Mtn:

Since I am sick as hell and had not much else to do today, I thought I'd upload a couple neat photos from this summer. I plan on doing another slideshow one of these days before I move next year. Here's my buddy Brian on the tryrolean pitch on the Sun Ribbon Arete at Temple Crag, CA. Here's Fixed Pin following the awesome crack pitch on Chianti Spire Here's Climzalot cranking on the Direct N. Buttress of Bear Mtn -unfortuneately it's not that good of a photo Finally, here is a rare sighting of Necronomicon meditating on world peace and alpine climbing: I have a photo of myself attaining nirvana on slesse, but it's at home...instead here's a totally gay photo of me decked out in spandex in my first race and first time x-country skiing. No jerking off... And you asked for it, even though it's in 3 different guidebooks now...the topo for Bear Mtn:

Which is why the Surgeon General warns you never to snort the Dandelions! I used to be a strong man, now look at me!

Personally, I snort Dandelions.

quote: NOTHING much will be in in the next two months I'll be seeing ya in the Canadian Rockies,eh

I admit it... I get way overexcited to climb. I approach on being a stalker when I call my partners repeatedly over and over again to get them to climb. I may also attempt things over my head sometimes (including several inappropriate solos). I am paying for one of these cases right now by being super sick. I really should've listened to my body last weekend, instead of trying Prussik w/ a cold. I blame it mostly on this site, and those pesky guidebook photos. But, being overexcited to climb can get you places you didn't think you could previously go. Sometimes taking risks that equal your motivation can push your climbing to a new level. So I say, go for it...those of you who aren't sure if they should try that climb, lead that pitch, or try a new type of climbing. BUT, when you get fucked, you can only blame yourself. Also, make sure your partner is fully aware of what you talked him/her into. ex, "Dude, it totally should be in" = "I don't car if it's in or not, let's go anyway" "Dude, it doesn't get all that much snow" = "I've ignored the avalanche warnings, let's go anyway" "It looks like a short crux" = "I hope I don't fall on that runout, over my ability section" "I'm good" = "I'm not ok, but your not ok either and I want to look better than you" "Dude, let's go for it" = "You've already said you don't want to go for it, and I certainly don't want to go for it, but if I say this, you'll be the one who turned us around!" etc...

quote: i have to take a day off of work this week. anybody wanna hit up exit 38 for some "dry"tooling ... in the rain? Fuck yeah, what day? Maybe nighttime for added training intensity?? If not, other suggestions... Try the nice lil' M7 at sehome hill. Good practice on dicey rock. Still waiting a lead ascent (make sure I'm nowhere around). Newhalem rock is kinda fun too. Better yer, go to Gov. Lister Cliffs of Chuckanut drive, if you can drytool there, you'll be ready for a mixed ascent of the chossiest route. Helmets seriously required. Of course, I've never never done any of these suggestion(for all you local fanatics [ 11-12-2002, 04:44 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Lets just say it was a very nice "backpacking" trip. Need to leave the car a wee bit earlier next time.