layton

I think it has some artistic flair!

Beauty, eh?

Koflatch Arctis Expe $150 Euro sz 10 Great condition. The yellow boots, eh. Euro 10=USA 10.5 Here's what looks used on em: -the innner boot has some wear tears. They are only cosmetic. The tears are on the top of the liner where the plastic coating meets the fleece lining. -Part of the rand is glued back on the front part of the boot. Not much separated, just near the toe. Purely cosmetic. These are fantastic mountaineering or cold weather ice boots. I've used em on technical ice in Colorado and Canada, and slogging up glaciers in the heat of summer. Haven't been used that much, probably = to one season normal wear. Reason for sale: I have warm feet and do not require a plastic boot unless it is a multi-day expedition for which I could use the $150 way more than a pair of plastics.

I'd call it (last pitch of Prof) a 5, but remember RATINGS DON'T MEAN SHIT!!! I'd hop on a 5+ w/solid ice way before I hopped on a 4 slush pilar w/no chance of solid pro -as was the case on the last pitch of Proff, and Linda Ice 9. The final pilar of Louise is only 4+ b/c there is a groove you can stem and get no-hands rests in although it looks like a 6. I wouldn't give murchison any harder than 4+ past the cave. I've seen (and climbed that pitch) in much harder conditions. The ice was solid and the steep part was short (although pro-was very very hard to get...ie don't bother). Anyway, who cares they are all awesome and hard.

Nice!

Looked slabby and marbley to me? Your right, f'dat shite. I'm game, lets go now.

Nice going Daler! Man I wish I could climb that hard!!!! I'd post a thumbs up gremlin, but I don't know what 1/2 of them mean anymore and I'd probably wind up posting a f*ck you gremlin by accident. Anyway, nice job good work and cheers!

I've been staring at that whole area in the Red Fred for a while. Maybe (although I don't want to admit it) this would be a good bolted sport route?

Don't click on these at work. This thread should last about an hour. Hmmmm, taste a little fatty to me? Does this taste fatty to you?

Here's a photo of Zero Gulley as of four weeks ago when Richard and I did it. zero gulley

Gotta little ice sack with me crampons in got a bag with dryloft and down But I'm a good climber that sometimes wanna go home I've got hypalon gaiters keepin me shoes dry got those brusitis knuckle blues climbed 13 piles of shit in the cascades to chose from etc.. etc..

Your welcome Coley. Way to get after it. Did you see my poop?

Part 1 cuz I'll be back. Trip cut short due to partners shoulder getting seriously smacked. Soloed This House of Sky...Awesome and fun after the 1st bit. Climbed Professors for the 5th time, after attempting Welcome to Canada (not in). Didn't do last pitch, too nasty. Did Linda Ice 9, fun, once again last pitch wicked shitty. I got to lead the crux on Kitty Hawk. Accoring to Gadd''s site it was a WI5+ lead! Shit, glad I didn't know that. Did murchison falls too. Longest 180m anywhere. WI5 shape. Some stuff is getting better, some stuff worse. Things to do if coming up that are in (besides what was listed): Shades of beauty Slipstream 570 Good luck n' bad dreams Echo Maddness Sorcerer (would'a been tomorrow's journey damnit!) Ice Funnel Kemosabe Coire Dubhe Integrale Whitemans and Redman Soars Louise (looks harder than it is right now) Suffer Machine And any alpine route you want...read NO SNOW. .... well there's lots more, but I can't think right now. Not much is in the Canmore area right now Wish Vertical Turtle (shane) a healthy recovery

Yup. that was Richard's (fixedpin) pound-in! We were gonna rap off a bollard, but it was pulling so we rapped off that crappy screw. The ice wasn't thick enough for a v-thread and richard had no sentimental ties to that piece of junk. Glad you had fun and didn't step in my green-apple splatter 1/2 way up the gully. I probably would'a downclimbed the whole thing if I did it again. Your description (and times) sounds the same as ours, 'cept for the hours spend untangling our ropes after the raps. Glad you had fun. I'll post a rockies report when I get a chance. What happened to my original TR?

Yeah, it was fun. Wait till spring for this one. We'll make the third time a charm. The polish route looks fun, maybe we'll give that a go if it's in. As for the area, Everything is "in" but I'd camp below whatever you're doing to pick your way across the glacier. The Coleman/Deming is fine, the snow is hard (enough) right at the glacier. Toes will hurt coming down.

The board won't let me reply to this tread? Some weird error occurs, so I'm staring a new thread. Colin a 4wd only saves you at most an extra hour of walking, probably more like a 1/2 hour. Easily soloable, the rock move at the base was easier than I though after downclimbing it. Don, we almost did that traverse just to avoid downclimbing the entire couloir (which btw, is very tedious)! The view from the top is totally worth a traverse of those peaks. You'd get awesome views all day long! I think I spotted your route on Payne. It looks more like a water ice climb right now (very thin). This area could produce some fat climbs if this cold weather holds. I'll probably come back this winter or spring.

Haven't been there, but my best guess is that you'll have no problem with snow on ingalls or the Toof. Most rock is dry right now, but cold. Ingalls would be a safer bet. Have fun.

Busy climbing, sorry. I've attemped it twice in the past two or three years so I feel the pain too. [ 11-27-2002, 12:26 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

I've concidered this too and when I get some $$, I'm gonna buy a pair of children's skiis, and screw my silvretta 303's to em. For goin' up only. I'll go down in em, but I fall on my face in the best of skiis so why bother?

Why did you even bother posting this Necronomicon? No one wants to waste their time in there. Anyone who goes there is a total pussy and can't climb anything anyway. Boy o' boy did my 4x4 hc truck have one hell of a time getting across those tank traps! Dru, did they recently gut the road? We had to park far from the climb and do some seriously steep grunting up the road. The crux of the area is a 60 degree devil's club slope up to the mtn! We almost had to abandon the truck! Not worth going back. No wonder Maxim quit climbing.

Went on a drive today, Colonial isn't quite ready yet. If it had more snow, then I'd be up there right now, but there are too many sections devoid of snow, especially getting up the avy gullies. There's a big patch of blue that's not touching just right of the face.

I'll be up there when you are till the 20th or so, my car's a Toyoto w/stickers all over the tailgate like a total gapewad. Honk, and we'll climb some shit. Possilby at Rampart Hostel, or somewhere in Canmore.

I'll be there from Dec 1-23. I'll let you know how it is when my triceps avulse from the bone.

Your all hardmen! Good job on 2002!!!! It ain't over yet though, Three Cheers to all who got off their ass

quote: Leading new route in the Twin Sisters Spray away, I wanna know 'bout it. (plus, did you get a ride up in the 'shitter')?