layton

Story on West Nile Virus Pretty poorly written article. I'll give a beer to the first one of us to contract it next summer. My guess being Climzalot, or Jay Hack.

Got an advanced teleplay of the next episode of "Will & Grace" did ya Jordan? Does the gang go shopping later? Or was that the alternate ending to the episode when Webster burns the house down(that cute little bastard!) Send that to Jason Martin, he's a playwright as well as a guidebook author. Maybe it can go broadway.

Plus it's wicked chilly out.

Just so you know, I've recently abandoned my homemade GU (brownrice sryup w/hershey's sryup). I'm starting to get the gag reflex...kinda like one too many bowls of instant oatmeal (I'm gonna puke thinking about that). I tried making the real GU...totally horribly foul, and adding more vitamins, etc. to the brown rice sryup (blech!). I've been using hammergel now. It comes in a huge bottle (24 oz) and cost between $14-17. It also comes w/a free 4oz flask. At least it's cheaper than gu or cliffshot and tastes way better than my homemade horrorshow. I just eat a multivitamin for breakfast and dinner now. If I go do the Emporer Face or Checz-Direct I will be the first to buy actual Gu. [ 10-31-2002, 11:21 AM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Bring some smokes and smutt and keep em in your front seat or on the dashboard for the roadblock/check. The little dudes w/M16 are about 16 (must be why it's called the M16) and they'll hassle you a lot less w/some porn and smokes. I'm totally serious. Check out the Boojum forest, San Ignacio, and the Catavina boulderfield. Trippy!

Film stolen? How convienent. FA my ass, you and Don went whoring downtown didn't you.

Visualized on the routes I want to do this winter, then rolled around in a big pile of guidebooks, snakes, feces, and self-photos of Marky Mark (twight). Ate entire block of cheese afterwards. Then I earned my Redwings.

Nice going fellas! Maybe Tami Knight stole your shit?

Maybe I'll stick to Teacup peak.

Is he the dude the put up the A5c route solo that took several years to do and may be the world's hardest route? If so...jesus chirst almighty!

Yeah it was Jim Sinclair. Funny guy, love those Squamish locals!!! Thanks for the beta folks. I'll add that one in the backfiles. Jim had some interesting ideas about a winter ascent. As we all know it's damn hard enough to get up established easier climbs near the road around here in winter so I think I'll wait for that briefcase full of money and the snowmachine brigade. Nice try on the ascent Don. New ice guide comin' out soon, eh? hehe. As long as we are on the subject, what and where is the Heart of Darkness Coulior on Slesse? -Mike (who's eyes are bigger than his stomach)

Gearing up at the base of the chief parking lot in Squamish, some dude comes up to me and immediately tells me of an unclimbed 9000' peak in SW B.C. Intrigued by this random beta he dug out the photo from his car. Vulcan's Thumb on Pyroclastic peak. He said it had been attemped by some folks who's name rang a bell (athough I forgot) but they didn't get to the top. He later identified himself as the first ascentionist of Exasperator (although I forgot his name). He said there's a photo of this up on the wall at MEC taken in winter by a parapelegic. Looks like a winter ascent would be manditory so bring your snowmachines. Here's a link to it: Vulcan's Thumb Sounds juicy, but quite the epic. Anyone want to let me borrow some $$ and a snowmachine?

Chestbeating: My record on the N.Twin from the car parked at the gate before the bridge up the W ridge, back to the car: 3.5 hours (w/mtn bike) I am lord of the Twin Sisters. All hail.

You da' man!

I'll try n' make it. Hey, let us know about your coulior climb you did. Post some photos. I was surpised to see nothing on bivouac, except an update on Pk 6800 (aka Mt.Compact Crap).

I finally figured out how to do this. Here are some more photos. This is the photo of the other peak Jordop,Necro, and I attempted. I went up through the overhangs in the middle. Yuck

I gathered that he didn't do it from his post and wish that he did.

Frigid Air Buttress is the best climb in the world, do it. I also think Swain is the best guidebook author in the world. Such good info and witty remarks and useful info. How did people climb before it? If I was a girl, I'd want to have his baby. I'm also Napolean and the Queen of England.

Has anyone actually done the coulior route in Selected Climbs Vol II? I approached once via sibley creek and got lost two years ago, and tried eldorado creek and got dumped on two years ago. I have since given up after 2nd hand info of a 2nd ascent which was guided by an AAI guide. It seems like it's way short and if it was guided??? I don't want to speculate since I haven't done it, but it looks pretty short and none too difficult. Seems like a scenery climb with a short burst of climbing effort. I am not knocking this climb or anyone that's done it, but I'd like some info from someone who's done it to get the thumbs up. I was thinkin' of doing it in a couple weeks or posibly soloing it.

That blows! Well I hope it isn't true. Say bye bye to easy access, and say hello to leg searing, back breaking, diaphragm compressing mountain bikin' w/ a pack on. Fuck. Someone say it isn't so. Oh well, it's sierra time. I'm leavin tonight. Any bets on if I get crapped off of every route by mean Mr. Weather?

It was my partners Nissan (or Mazda?) I don't remember the color. It was wet colored. Were you up there the same day? Lovely lil' downpour!

Thanks again Don! I'm glad you say it's stellar above, that's what I was assuming would happen. It was slick as snot and I was FULLY drenched by the car. We were leading in blocks, and against my wishes, led w/a 9.4 and had a 6mil rap line. Thank god our ropes didn't get stuck on the rap off, but it was hard work pulling a 6mil down. I will stongly urge twin ropes next time. I think we would've been ok getting off by dark, but who knows? The catch is doing it when it's colder so there are less bugs, but that = less daylight. Those first pitches although rotten, were not easy. The layback flakes were hard 5.9, setting the impession that this is not a softie! Bring some bigger cams, that's all we used for the 1st 4 pitches (really more like 3.5-we bailed before the rope ran out on our simul). I'd still like to know what sorta gear that offwidth needs, and if it's very long. Now that Don has given me beta on several failed attempts (Ashlu,Vienesse, Springbok), I'd better buck up next summer. I'm pretty sure Steinbok is outta my league since I've only aided a few pitches in my life. Maybe when I'm old enough? Man it's a pretty mountain. Next summer: Springbox,Vienesse,Clarke,Bardean, Beckey/Choinard, and possibly Grainger are gonna be my lofty goals (again). Luckily I have do the approach to every one but the last two. By that time they'll have given me Canadian citizenship. Thanks again Don, Canada Kicks Ass!!! Cheers, Mike seriously, I'm headin' south. [ 09-27-2002, 05:36 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Got rained off 4 pitches up. Since there is almost no info on this site on this climb, I thought I'd share. Bring a 6-pack for the logging camp boys and they'll gladly let you out at any time of night (or give you the key like they did us). It's easy driving right to across the peak. The schwackin' looks short, but boy it ain't. Even though it only took 1hr 15min to get up there it seemed like forever, kinda like a krumholtz traffic jam. There ain't much for agua at the base, just a hard patch o' snow. Bring extra, it doesn't take much more to bring it up. There were no bugs, but I bet it'd be pure hell up there in mid-summer. Don't climb it in the rain. uhhh.... the 1st 4 pitches were kinda chossy (really chossy) but fun. The bivy spot is perfect (except for no water). I nearly good my head blown off many times due to rockfall. Anyone know anything about past pitch 4? Does it get better not much farther up? I'm real excited to do the decent next year!!! Yeeehaw! Anyone done NE butt of steinbox, the original route? See ya, I'm going to the Sierras. [ 09-26-2002, 06:19 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

GenePires and I went up this climb yesterday. Somewhat of a "mystery" area due to lack of good info (thanks Jeff and Matt). It is an "adventure" climb w/exciting routefinding and rappelling. The granite sidewalk is awesome and so are the views of the 3 fingers, Whitehorse, and the slab routes across the valley. Looks like some really sweet other routes on Blueberry hill! There's a bolted line just to the left of W.Ridge that looks amazing, although pretty tough. Anyone know about this bad boy? And who did the FA of the W.Ridge, Beckey maybe? Bring 2 ropes to get off lest you be rappelling all day long.

I cannot believe you guy trashed a Unimog! I can't even fuckin' believe you were using one. Can I borrow it? PLEEEEEAAAAAAASE!