layton

I'd be as pissed as Climzalot was after seeing 1,000's of people wankin' up on chair, getting mauled gy gapers with their useless snowshoes on the way down, and looking for how other folks did and finding only banter on this post. I'm very guilty too... But, I'd agree w/him. I wouldn't post a TR on this website right now 'cuz it seems like butting in on some inside joke you don't understand. This response was for those of us who don't give a damn about snafflehounds or horsecock.

Just for the record, I didn't finish the route last year. Yes the avy debris way EZ going to the face (see Kearny's guide for the line we used to access the face). But it was late March and the second I hit the actual face it turned into a wallow in very deep sloppy snow. I hippo waded to the base of what people think is the Spindrift Coulior, and climbed to the intitial ice pitches to find them mostly melted out...evil. Then the sun came out and BLASTED us. I got the hell off that face quick as it turned to a 4000' slurpee. I fell into a crevasse 1/2 way and had a hard time getting myself out! I think folks are not climbing the Spindrift coulior when they say they did. I was talking to Jason Martin yesterday and he mentioned that it may be just to the right of where folks are climbing...more up the face of the right hand mini-peak. Who knows, but Nelson's updated Selected Climbs will show us the actual route, as Well as Jason's upcoming book (which will have many routes listed on this peak). Jason thinks that the Spindrift Coulior may be as hard the the intitial reports claim, but then again, maybe not. Either way, I think the line folks are taking looks totally awesome. Kinda like a Stairway to Heaven that's been stretched out and pitches separated by miles of snow slogging.

Thanks! The reports sounded like it wasn't mixed, just snow covered rock. Guess I read wrong. Guess I have to wait, since the avy conditions on the approach right now must be serious.

Way to go Dru! I'm jealous. Good job. Did you like the climb? How did Knight look?

I've got a question about this route. I'm sure I'll get flamed for sure. 1st, how long did it take you guys, and colin too . The guidebook time seems too long. 2nd, what makes this a good route? The reason I ask is b/c everyone seems to say it would be sweet w/ice on it, as I would expect. BUT, with no ice on it except for snow, people still are climbing it. What's the point in doing it as a winter climb when it sounds like it's just a rock climb? If it's just a rock climb, then would it be a good summer climb. I expect the answer to be no, so then why would it be a good no-ice winter climb? Seems kinda pointless and contrived just to do it 'cuz it is winter outside. Unless you plan on climbing it more than once, would you advise to wait until it's iced up nicely to get the real experience of the route? Regardless, I still would like to do it and kudos to those that did it. I hope my question makes sense, if not, I'll try and rephrase it.

Avy debris is the key to accessing the N.Face. There is NO avy debris in any of the chutes off the headwall. It would be awfully wet trying to get to the face right now. Expect a bushwack to the right of the face if you're planning on climbing it right now. May need to wait a month till the debris fills up the chutes enough to climb.

Nutrageous and the new Fast Break have won me over. I missed the old peanut butter snickers sooo much, and am rejoicing upon the arrival of the replacement (fast break). 3 muskateers are next in line. Also, swedish fish, gummy rapberries, fuzzy peaches, and gummie grapefruit slices. Then some nice healthy dark chocolate washed down w/ some lemonde! Buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Mmmmmm! A cool glass of MILF. Preferably a soccer mom!

I'm at the B'ham library checking the weather. Yes, it would be the suckiest to have to descend that approach w/tons of shit. In fact it would be quite dangerous. Cory and I (after we gave up on 5 separate attempts b/c of avy) brought a tent shell, 1/2 a copy of dune (the 2nd 1/2), and a bottle of sleeping pills up there the final assault. We wore all of our clothes and took some Melatonin and waited 2 days w/o bags for the route to stop avalanching! If I were you I'd bring bivy gear up there and if it craps out, bury you shit and go back to base. Next clear spell, carry some extra food and try it from base camp. If it craps out you'll have a tent +/or bags to crash in. Repeat ad nauseum. Every time the weather cleared we climbed up to below the route just to have it crap out again (5 times). That's why I suggested to be flown up there during the good weather so you can get it while it's in. Scott and Kelly sent it from the Ruth Glacier and back in 8 hours!!!! Below Dickey is a great basecamp. Check out Grandess Asses on London Tower. Also the NW shoulder of Bradley looked good. There's a rock line on Dickey that may go too. I'll show you. As for Peak 12,???? that Steve House likes so much, I never checked it out. Looks fun from the photos. Good bouldering below the mooses tooth.

They don't idolize, they climb. It's not talent, it's determination. It's definitely not me posting this reply sitting on my ass in the library after driving all over creation looking for ice. Anyone is a hardman in my opinion who steps out into the unknown, who is probably scared, but tries anyways. .....or it's someone who sends sick shit! Yeah! P.s. A good mantra i've used is, "Calm Blue Ocean."

I just got off the phone w/Jason Martin. He mentioned a Jay ("J")? Mtn across from Cashmere Mtn in Leavenworth. I guess it doesn't show up on any maps and the locals dubbed it J. Anyway, there are 3 couliours I guess on it, one being wicked steep and long. Any beta from the locals? Let's not keep it a secret (at least from me). Photos?

I'm game. Wake me up when it's in.

Checked both of em out. Same story. Good snowpack and cover, but the steep parts don't have much ice. Need more melt freeze. Give em another storm and sunny period and they may be good to go. I may be wrong so go anyway and rub it in my face.

Looked fine, but it wasn't in. The snow conditions were pretty crappy that month. It's just before Ham and Eggs, same approach. Go into the coulior and climb up it. Probably descend ham and eggs if you can find it on top. Try n' get Paul to fly you to the glacier below the route and save some sloggin (although there are some fun pitches on the approach).

...who's apparently been stalking me!

Yeah, multiday/week climbs in AK (for the ice 9000), but I'd bring my Nepal Tops if they were alive today. They worked good in the Ruth for a month. I'd bring the Super Alpinista if I was going to AK and had the boot by then.

Overkill on the 9000's...here's the link:link

I put up a similar post regarding the Super Alpinista. They aren't available until march and I've been waiting for them to ship since november (I ordered them in august)! A friend of mine demo'd them and loved the superalpinista, said the ice 9000 were awesome to but not neccessary (too warm for most outtings).

Thanks for the info! However this info is already known and outdated since there are rumours that the camps and/or the bridge has been pulled since this summer (I was there at the last week of september attemping springbok). Still no word if the camp is there or not, I bet if one of us called we'd find out...but thats a while from now anyways so I guess it's not too pressing.

Don't think it's been repeated. I'll go if it's "in" although I've heard it hasn't come in for a while (which may be B.S.)

The Outdoor Center at WWU has a copy.

That's pretty funny, and a little creepy. I'm actually on the left in the red blurry jacket. Who be ye? Were you the dude who gave us the Ron Rico Rum?? Cory?? Scott?? Kelly?? God??

Well the rumors are false! Chicago has NO good climbing. The hot dogs are freakin' amazing (you have no idea-Deamon Dogs off the "L") and the pizza is to die for (Carmens in Evanston is the best). Didn't get my Billy Goat fix, but lower Wacker is no longer under construction. Someone will pay for misleading me about this city's climbing potential. Should'a bought that new Rockn'Road!!!! Hope all you other misplaced midwesterners out in coffeeland are climbing hard, cuz this dude ain't climbing anything but down the social ladder here in $$$'sville so I'm headin to the Canadian Rockies again where a down jacket is more hip than a black leather coat! Any other folks out there been wisked away to their hometown to realize exactly why it is that they moved in the 1st place??? Hope this TR helps anyone who does a search on Chi-town in hopes for a more successful TR, otherwise I'm just adding to the useless crap ya'll must wade thru to get ANY useful info!

Climzalot. I watched them do what was just described and was with them during most of that trip (the one in which Seth Shaw died). Anyway I may be able to help you out w/some info. Here's a line Cory and I did to keep you interested...you may notice he forgot his helmet (aka miles smart on Eldo) p.s. Chicago sucks ass, I'm going to Banff tomorrow hot dogs or not! Couldn't resist spraying.

nice going! I've heard that peak has wonderful winter potential.