layton

It's been a bad season for me on alpine-ice routes. I've been 2nd-guessing myself on a few routes now and have bailed w/o trying. I could've done two awesome climbs this year already if I haven't been such a big pussy. Haven't TR'd them due to shame issues, being NY gully, and colonial. If the weather holds for next weekend, something will be sent damnit! I appologize to myself for being such a fuckwad. Expect good news soon from David Parker and Wayne1112 (I hope). Congrats to Colin and Forrest for Inspiration peak.

Please excuse necro, he is a mean person. Anyone have any useful info? I've seen the 12" of powder forcast, just wondering if anyone has any 1st hand info. I'll find out for myself either way.

yeah, that's what I meant.

Thanks guys! Climzalot gave me has old one. thanks man! As for work! Shit I've applied for over 20 jobs since sunday and NOTHING! I was doing temp before my little road trip and I got maybe 7 days of work per month. I may be forced to move, but the thing is rent is SOO cheap in B'ham compared to places w/jobs. I may move to Las Vegas and substitute teach until june since they don't require a teaching cert, just a B.A. Regardless, I'm moving to Portland next fall to start chiropractic school.

Thanks Erick! I don't think I'll be at Index this weekend, but if I am you can have the liner gloves that came w/my ice gloves. Anyone got any $$ they want to mail me? I dropped it off this new climb in Red Rocks. Ask Jason where it is, I was staring at the ground on the approach. Near Orange Colonus i guess. I don't know, cuz "Fixed Pin" dropped my guidebook off of frogland a couple months ago. Anyone got a red rocks guidebook they want to give me?

Anyone got a spare? I can't afford it, and I dropped mine (whoops!).

I'll trade you a Integral Designs Salathe Bivy, for their EPIC bivy. What a sweet trade, eh? Don't own a Salathe Bivy? Buy one and trade. You'll still save $$. Thanks, Mike

Anyone know how N facing slopes are doing at moderate to higher elevations in the N.Cascades (4000'-9000'). Anyone been slogging since the nice weather came? Postholing? Neve? Powder? Crust on depth hoar? Pure hell? This has nothing to do with how the skiing in. I'm talking fer walking and climbing on. Sadly to say, I haven't been able to get out and know for myself. It'd be REALLY nice to know.

report back Mt Index and Mt Persis conditions if you do go!

Commitment grades don't mean much when compared to other areas. I believe remoteness is concidered. All I ever look at is the technical rating, how many pitches (and how hard they are), how long the approach and descent are). If you know that, then the commitment grade shouldn't matter. Look at other guidebooks. Polar cirus is given a V. It's right off the road and not too serious. Libery ridge gets anywhere from a grade III to a grade V. Tripple couliors get between II and IV+. I just think because of the descrepancies that it's hard for a FA team to give a good commitment grade without feeling like a chestbeater or a sandbagger.

I'll be doing recon on wed or thurs. I'll let you know.

Here the REAL photo of Yak:

On route. It's like a 40 minute approach, and Jay, my partner had serious ITB syndrome issues on the descent. Email me for descent info, cuz Swain is a moron like always. And no, it was very warm in the chimneys and on the face. Unreal weather! NEcro, if you do kill me, do it in Simon Yates style!

Well it turned out the the Chimney pitches on Epinepherine were super awesome and fun! My partner and I managed the entire route in 6 hours which surprised us. One of the best routes ever! All and all in a 12 day trip we climbed 70 pitches! , the last 7 were with Jason Martin on some newly put up route next to Orange Colonus. My favorites on the trip: Exorcist Illusion Dweller Lee Vining Left Side Mixed Epinepherine & Eagle's Dance! Fun fun fun! I wanna go back. Thanks for having the weather suck while I was gone. It was always in the 70's down there (even in Lee Vining).

Hey all you ccc.comers! Just saying hello from sunny CA! J-tree is nice n' warm, (albeit sandbagged...i.e. Comic Book and Exorcist, but Illusion Dweller was the best pitch I've ever led!!!). So Far 35 pitches in 4 days! I'm heading to Lee Vining with my partner and his Gaper client (stupid bastard) so I guess I'll be soloing and TRing. Oh well, he gets ditched after only two days of ice so it's off to Redrocks where we plan to climb Epinepherine, Eagle's Dance, Refried Brains, and Ginger cracks in a 4 day spree. My hands already look like I've got Leporcy (sp?) Hope the ice is fat when I get back, although I won't look forward to the slogging. Someone go send some shit in the mountains. Soon I'll be joining y'all and staring out my window too.

BD pins ARE camp pins.

Bog snorkeling is part of the approach factor of drainageering! Frodo gives it a try in the Two Towers for sport. In fact the whole gang gives it a go in the Fellowship in the Barrow Downs! An ancient art for sure. I bought a new hyperlight epic-pertex-kevlar 'Slip n' Slide' for wicked fast descents. I was going for the new Black Diamond 'Crocidile Mile' but they haven't worked out the 'hit the bump and take a dive' factor yet. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

I went from 5 stars to 2. so I whipped myself and called myself stupid for a couple hours. Now I'm ok

As many of you know by now, I've quit climbing for my new sport of choice...Drainaging! I haven't worked out a scale yet, but here are some of the criteria for a kick-ass drainage! 1.Steep as possible 2.As far from the road as possible 3.MUST be on an extremely forested hillside...otherwise see talus-groveling 4.Gullies w/ice are not concidered drainaging...see avy-doging 5.The more wet,mossy,waterfalling, cliffed out sections the better 6.Mung Mung Mung! The more the better 7.The choice routes are overgrown w/slide alder and devils club. 8.Extra point go to swinging on roots, pulling on grass, grabbing dirt, and slipping on wet mossy rock. I'm going to Newhalem this weekend to get some FA's. I firmly believe these are the new future of climbing. I know they are WAY harder than any stupid climb, and the potential is outrageous! Anyone got any golf shoes, and kevlar I can borrow?

Just buy a few different ones and pound on em at some roadside shitpile or mossy cliff somewhere. 1.Slide it in till it constricts (about 1/2 way) 2. Bang on it and the pitch will increase. 3. Stop banging on it when the pitch is the same twice in a row. 4. It's crap if you get a thud, or some unmusical sound. 5. or just wail on it till it fuses to the rock. They are very very very useful iceclimbing where the rock is waterpolished and the only cracks are tiny, or wierd. To get em out, use a shitty biner that you will never use and attach it to a sling you will never use and pull on the sling atttached to the biner and tap the piton left to right until it loosens enough to yank out w/you ax or hammer. Or give up and wail on it some more and give your parnter $10 for fucking up his/her piton.

Yes, so I have discovered!

Great topic! My dad lives in chicago and teaches in the south side to a very very poor all black neighborhood. He's shown them photos of me climbing. 100% of the response was that I'm very very stupid. Maybe there's a gene thats on the same group that is on the series of genes that determines racial characteristics that determines if one likes outdoor activities. Scientists think they've discovered a gene that determines if you'll be a risk taker or not. Here's a question for y'all. How many of you are the youngest child in your family? I am.

Naw, I figured it to be a zoo on Chair. I've done it a while back, and wouldn't really concider doing it again unless its the only thing in. It was one of my 1st alpine ice routes and I thought it pretty lame, I don't think I placed a single piece of pro on our one pitch simul-solo of the thing. (my opinion, I'm sure it was in very ez shape when I did it, and very hard shape when you guys did it..way to go! ) trask, I wasn't bitchin' too hard. Just thinkin' out loud about what Climzalot said, concidering he's usually pretty mellow and nonconfrontational.

I know what you mean about not wanting to repeat it, but totally worth the 1st time! Once again, nice job!!!!!!!! Now you'll hold your head up higher when you drive by Hope.

I'd be as pissed as Climzalot was after seeing 1,000's of people wankin' up on chair, getting mauled gy gapers with their useless snowshoes on the way down, and looking for how other folks did and finding only banter on this post. I'm very guilty too... But, I'd agree w/him. I wouldn't post a TR on this website right now 'cuz it seems like butting in on some inside joke you don't understand. This response was for those of us who don't give a damn about snafflehounds or horsecock.