layton

1. Tripple Couloirs B'ham to B'ham 2. Cuthroat E. Face Coulior 3. Direct N.Butt Bear 4. New route in B.C. Back of Beyond Buttress 5. Central Couloir on Joffre (which tied w/many other awesome rock and ice routes) BEST YEAR EVER! (and it ain't over) ...I'll be in Banff all of Dec. haha Worst Part of the Year 1.Getting my Degree and having to work 2.Working 3.Missing climbing cuz I worked 4.Not working and missing climbing 5.Aproaching Ashlu x2, Vieniesse, Bardean, Backbone ridge 3x, Colfax, Prussik x2, Baker, Shuksun, Springbox Arete, Colonial x2, Greybeard, and many many more, w/o climbing shit! [ 11-19-2002, 07:38 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

quote: N face slesse, jan'80, w perry beckham and john wittmayer. 21 rope-lengths, maybe 9 or 10 belays, bits of 70 degrees, scratchy sections, a 25-foot tunnel thru the cornice to finish. why aren't people climbing this route and arctic wing (1989; de jong, gibbs, macgregor) to the right every winter? It's on the damn list, Don! Give me a break (sob)!! It's on the list. That 2 route a winter thing is pretty much dead on right!

Do the entire beckey guide link-up in alphabetical order.

Mmmmmmmmm (slobber).... A Cinnabun ...(slobber). Doh'!

Boy does that man get outside or what?!! Well Don, or anyone, how are they? Beckey doesn't really mention how steep the individual couloirs are, etc. I looked up the Mt.Payne climbs in the CAJ and I think I'll pass on those. I'm sure Maxim would have lots o' fun posting here, we should get him to spray too.

Yeah, but if the ratings or anything changes about the climb you did from the old book to the new one, you have to do it again or it doesn't count.

Anyone done any of the couloirs on Mt.Rideout or Payne?

Since I am sick as hell and had not much else to do today, I thought I'd upload a couple neat photos from this summer. I plan on doing another slideshow one of these days before I move next year. Here's my buddy Brian on the tryrolean pitch on the Sun Ribbon Arete at Temple Crag, CA. Here's Fixed Pin following the awesome crack pitch on Chianti Spire Here's Climzalot cranking on the Direct N. Buttress of Bear Mtn -unfortuneately it's not that good of a photo Finally, here is a rare sighting of Necronomicon meditating on world peace and alpine climbing: I have a photo of myself attaining nirvana on slesse, but it's at home...instead here's a totally gay photo of me decked out in spandex in my first race and first time x-country skiing. No jerking off... And you asked for it, even though it's in 3 different guidebooks now...the topo for Bear Mtn:

Since I am sick as hell and had not much else to do today, I thought I'd upload a couple neat photos from this summer. I plan on doing another slideshow one of these days before I move next year. Here's my buddy Brian on the tryrolean pitch on the Sun Ribbon Arete at Temple Crag, CA. Here's Fixed Pin following the awesome crack pitch on Chianti Spire Here's Climzalot cranking on the Direct N. Buttress of Bear Mtn -unfortuneately it's not that good of a photo Finally, here is a rare sighting of Necronomicon meditating on world peace and alpine climbing: I have a photo of myself attaining nirvana on slesse, but it's at home...instead here's a totally gay photo of me decked out in spandex in my first race and first time x-country skiing. No jerking off... And you asked for it, even though it's in 3 different guidebooks now...the topo for Bear Mtn:

Which is why the Surgeon General warns you never to snort the Dandelions! I used to be a strong man, now look at me!

Personally, I snort Dandelions.

quote: NOTHING much will be in in the next two months I'll be seeing ya in the Canadian Rockies,eh

I admit it... I get way overexcited to climb. I approach on being a stalker when I call my partners repeatedly over and over again to get them to climb. I may also attempt things over my head sometimes (including several inappropriate solos). I am paying for one of these cases right now by being super sick. I really should've listened to my body last weekend, instead of trying Prussik w/ a cold. I blame it mostly on this site, and those pesky guidebook photos. But, being overexcited to climb can get you places you didn't think you could previously go. Sometimes taking risks that equal your motivation can push your climbing to a new level. So I say, go for it...those of you who aren't sure if they should try that climb, lead that pitch, or try a new type of climbing. BUT, when you get fucked, you can only blame yourself. Also, make sure your partner is fully aware of what you talked him/her into. ex, "Dude, it totally should be in" = "I don't car if it's in or not, let's go anyway" "Dude, it doesn't get all that much snow" = "I've ignored the avalanche warnings, let's go anyway" "It looks like a short crux" = "I hope I don't fall on that runout, over my ability section" "I'm good" = "I'm not ok, but your not ok either and I want to look better than you" "Dude, let's go for it" = "You've already said you don't want to go for it, and I certainly don't want to go for it, but if I say this, you'll be the one who turned us around!" etc...

quote: i have to take a day off of work this week. anybody wanna hit up exit 38 for some "dry"tooling ... in the rain? Fuck yeah, what day? Maybe nighttime for added training intensity?? If not, other suggestions... Try the nice lil' M7 at sehome hill. Good practice on dicey rock. Still waiting a lead ascent (make sure I'm nowhere around). Newhalem rock is kinda fun too. Better yer, go to Gov. Lister Cliffs of Chuckanut drive, if you can drytool there, you'll be ready for a mixed ascent of the chossiest route. Helmets seriously required. Of course, I've never never done any of these suggestion(for all you local fanatics [ 11-12-2002, 04:44 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Lets just say it was a very nice "backpacking" trip. Need to leave the car a wee bit earlier next time.

There's about 4-6 inches of snow (depending on where you step) going up to prussik.

Don't wory, iceclimbing is super fucking easy. I don't know what thelawgod is so scared about. Go out there and bash away, but don't forget to have fun.

Jimmyleg's TR really doesn't say much as the WHEN they will pull the camp, bridge, etc... I'll just call the company early next summer to find out when the info would actually be useful.

quote: THEY DON'T SERVE NACHOS Well, I'm never going there again. Jordop, next time your in the 'ham stop by the Beaver Inn for 3.50 pitchers of Pabst and free yellow looking popcorn, or the Ranch Room for $2 rum and cokes (wicked strong) and free 2nd hand smoke!

quote: THEY DON'T SERVE NACHOS Well, I'm never going there again. Jordop, next time your in the 'ham stop by the Beaver Inn for 3.50 pitchers of Pabst and free yellow looking popcorn, or the Ranch Room for $2 rum and cokes (wicked strong) and free 2nd hand smoke!

Well, I fucked up and I guess they are 42.5 so they're still for sale. $150 +$7.50 shipping I still have some ice and snow gear for sale that'll come in hand really soon... the other stuff

I hear ya, After almost a month of good weather on the approach and storm right before the climb in the Ruth Gorge, my partner and I decided to split. Actually it was my idea, anyway. We had skied and climbed from the Ruth to the very base of ham and eggs 5 times until it was just plain silly. Then we did 3 attempts on a sick ice route on the London tower, and one on Mt Wake. Every time, nice weather on the approach, crap out on the climb followed by 1-7 days of snow. We did manage to climb a new route on Mt Johnson, but it was only a couple pitches of awesome WI4, and the Japanese Coulior on Barille. So we flew out, sick of snow and our tents. It was bomber weather the next 5 days. Seth Shaw not only sent our new ice-line, but then pushed it to the top of the mtn. Then he died serac bouldering the next day right outside our tent site. So not only did we blow our weather window, not send a new alpine route, bailed on many climbs, but we were unable to possibly help Seth as our friends who were still there did. My partner for that trip has barely spoken to me in two years. blech

Has the camp and/or bridge been pulled yet? If so, any other ways to get in. If not, any info as to when they're gonna do it? -Mike

Haven't spent much time there in crappy weather like we are having in bellingham right now. IF the forecast says rain in Leavenworth, would that probably mean rain around Prusik?> I know that sounds like a stupid question, but I've heard that it's location can make for good(at least better) weather than other places when it's crappy out.

I've seen the "Scar" from the W.ridge of Blueberry hill. It is just left of Psalm 29. I didn't see the start, but it doesn't look as long as the other routes. However, it may have some good cracks, but the rock look pretty shattered around the scar (obviously)! Hope that helps a little, but nothin' beats 1st hand info.