layton

There's a TR from the perspective of my turd somewhere on this site about this route. If fat, it would be ez WI4 probably. It was pretty slim pickens on our way up and a seriously soft snow climb (read: no downward force on snow, only side pressure bear hugs and no gear after the ice.) Bury your pack maybe for pro, or better yet bring a couple shovels.

Someone make this thread a sticky, it is super helpful. I'd bookmark it, but I ain't got me own computer.

Can't resist writting TR...fighting urge....uhgggg. I give in. I did Cloud Tower with my friend Andrew yesterday (best climb in Red Rocks) and we pulled a computer monitor sized boulder down whilst unsticking our ropes from a shrub. Luckilly I was facing downhill so I didn't see it happen, but it roared down and landed squarely on Andrew's rockshoe'd foot. It sliced right through the leather on top and was gnarly looking upon 1st inspection. We high-tailed it to the ER and after 4 hours of waiting (for him, my house is 2 blocks away so I was getting quietly drunk) all he needed was 8 stiches on one toe, nothing broken! The crazy part was, that the cut was on the underside of his toe? Go figure. I though he was gonna lose some toes. -1 of the nine lives that day. I think I've got one or two left, no more for sure. How's the weather and the job scence up there? ps. Dan McQuade and his partner (who did the actuall climbing) put up a final pitch on this route that goes at 12c/d. It has bolts and tcu's for gear. I got to watch them finally free it as they were a pitch ahead of us. We obviously didn't follow them as that is way way over my head.

I know I'm not a PNW climber for now and this has nothing to do w/ the north cascades, but I know lots of folks talk about doing this route. Jason Martin, Jay Hack, Justin Thibault, and I did this over the past 2 days. Overall the pitches really kinda sucked, but the route as a whole was awesome. Defintely the hardest longest route I've been on! Going as a team of 4 made it VERY slow going. We had two ropes and led pitches separetly. One of us managed to get all but 2 leads, but had to pull on some of gear on the higher pitches. One rope team led w/a pack and the partner followed w/ a pack. That team only carried an extra jacket for biving. The other two only had one pack w/a rock-wren sleeping bag, and a big down parka...not the way to go. The 2nd had a hell of a time w/this system. It didn't matter cuz all 4 of us were up there having fun, getting mad, and laughing our asses off. There were some shenanagins w/ one of the leaders getting off route, and one of the 2nds getting the rope stuck behind a cam while cleaning the roof w/the huge pack on. Every pitch was hard, even the 5.7-5.2 piches being full on. If we did it right we could easily have gone car to car, but we had fun on the bivy ledge on pitch 17 getting drunk. Well at least I did. I only had a non-hooded jacket so I took 2 vicodin, 3 melatonin, 2 sominex, 6 shots of jim beam, and 1/2 a pack of smokes for my lighweight emergancy bivy kit. It got lit really quick and passed out not feeling cold until the sun hit and we got up to climb again. We ran into hordes of Africanized Honey Bees (killer bees), ran out of water on the blazing hot summit, and one of us took a leader fall. We also decided that if 911 were to be a broadway play, that "It's Raining Men" would be the showstopping tune...literaly. At Albertsons I kicked an old lady out of my way as I raced to the Beverage Boulvard and the doughuts. We then proceeded to have an orgy of food at the buffet. Gotta run, cuz I have a job to go to!

I glissaded down that route, much to the "shock and awe" of the gapers with binocs who thought I fell off the mountain.

Jason can't always be there. He's in J-tree doing AMGA crap. (Although he is fun to spray about the cascades with)

Dude, most of those routes these guys mentioned are pretty good. Get Swain's book if your gonna buy one. It's necessary. The Uriosite book is a good supplement cuz of the photos, although they gave Black Orpheus 17 pitches and we did it w/some simul and some solo in 3, some other weirdness too. Here's the plan: No warm up bullshit. Resolution Arete 20 pitches, one of the longest Black Orpheus linked w/Chicken Lips 20 pitches Sour Mash -a few pitches (5-7?) Dream of Wild Turkeys -a few pitches (same) Fiddler on the Roof -till we puke or fall. Other possibilites: Crabby Appleton, Prince of Darkness, Original Route. The new uriosite guide is pretty neat, but also pretty stupid. Go do a new route if you're already done all the classics which is easily doable in a few seasons here. The one pitch stuff mentioned earlier is all good route, but none are next to each other.

Fellow gapers, gumbie, and spraylords... I'm in Vegas and can't spray about the PNW w/anyone. If you're down here, I'll be working at the climbing gym off and on next to desert rock sports until my substitute teacher contract goes through. I live about 15 minutes from the park. I'll be here thru april, possibly end of may. 702-219-5786 -cell.

If you have to, I can pick you up at the airport. Come on down soon! I may get a place. It's getting wicked hot, and poaching a bivy site is really hard (or very far away), so I may find a place. My cell phone # is (702) 219-5786, but I don't answer it.

Harry Potter peak?

Comic Book, Exorcist, Illusion Dweller, and Sail Away. The best climb ever is a 5.6 called swiss cheese...seriously. In fact, the area that swiss cheese is in has tons of great shorter climbs. You can blitz the area. BTW, zero or one stars means awesome climbing w/ a Squamish rating. 3 stars is ultrasandbagged and rough. 4 stars is kinda sandbagged w/awesome climbing. 2 stars=choss. 5 stars=solid rating, awesome climbing.

I'll be back at the end of May begining of June, unless I hit rock bottom. Then you can look for me under the bridge on Chestnut street and Bay St in B'ham.

Just saw my truck. I am always paying attention. My hyothalamus is 10x the size of a normal human, and I can slog forever without climbing anything. That's my power. I didn't want to admit it, in case I had to register myself as a mutant. Call me the Observer, or Sloginfailure. Gotta go, evil lurks.

They haven't called me about my truck for the 2nd movie, so I don't think it'll make the cut. I want to know where the hell that scene was taken. Anyone have a guess that's been up to the rockies a shitload?

Once in a lifetime, the PERFECT conditions come along. I can't go this weekend (DAMNIT) cuz I've testing gore-windstopper fabric on the roof of my apt building. Anyone for some 38 degree NE facing snow slopes today? Jesus told me it will be fine.

Just watched it. Much to my amusement, my truck is in the movie. Right when Rogue gets dropped off at the roadhouse in Alberta (1st ten minutes of the movies), they show a parking lot scence. My truck is the Toyota w/a white canopy and stickers all over the tailgate. And I'm moving to las vegas in a few days until June cuz there ain't no jobs, and the weather blows.

Dirtwearing ugly troll crap said- "In doing my mother because you thought it was my father, this would suggest that you're a homosexual. Not really surprising I suppose. In light of this, I wouldn't want to fight you in case you rip your pantyhose or something. poof! " In which I respond in great haste No you're gay...you gay, gay, gay person. I blow sheep upon your shite. Glasgowkiss's underpants are under your fuck coward! Bitch under the shit buttplug, dick eatting aunty. What do you say now???

Yo bitch, you suck. I did your mother by accident cuz I thought it was you father! You are weak and I am strong. Blow me cream puff. -love mike

I always assumed they were the same thing. Since both climbs have the same first assenionists, and neither have been repeated (probably), then no one should really care. Go up there, look at the climb, do it. It's not Squamish, you can climb all over the face and it's still the same route basically! No one cares what variation was took on a snow/ice climb unless the F.A. team is in question like spindrift. But, climbing is pointless anyway so might as well squabble. I vote they are the same, even if they aren't.

Somebody better call Nelson and stop the presses. He was supposed to email me, but never got around to it. I don't know him, so I'll leave it to someone who does. Jason, I know your reading this. Put what you want in your guidebook, not what nelson did. that way you, Nelson, and Kearney can have the contradictory triumverate of guidebooks on big 4. Confuse the hell outta the folks from California..haha!

I have a slip-stream in my bathroom every morning. Damn woody.

Okay, I just looked at the 1997 AAJ for the route topo of Spindrift Coulior. I know there's a lot of confusion as to what route it actually is. On the photo with the route line drawn, it shows the route I took, along w/everyone else who claims to have climbed the Spindrift Couloir. BUT, the topo they drew shows a different line. One that tops out to the right of the rightmost saddle between the two peaks. It tops out on the slope heading up to the rightmost peak. I looked at a bunch of photos including my own and I see 3 other lines to the right of the gully I climbed. The one immediately to the right connects runnels leading to the ridge. The two to its right are steep lines directly on the face of the rightmost peak. All three look very steep with lots of tree, shrubs, and cliff bands. I would either assume that the gully I climbed is the one that Doug and Bart did, or they did the one to the right and misdrew the line on the photo of the face. Either way, reading their description, looking at photos, and looking at both their topos...nothing adds up to a clear conclusion. What do you think. Mr Natural? Anyone else notice the discrepancy in the AAJ's photo and topo?

I'm on its list. Got my snowmobile suite, and bag of flour all packed.

It'd be some serious effort getting over all the way east, like Matt said. I'd do the dry gulch route if I did a N.face route on the left side of the peak, like Alan Kearny did in his book. Just climbing the subpeak on the left looked like a serious climb. See the photo I posted earlier on the thread of the summit. The NW descent is pretty easy if you don't f^ck it up.

Was that you up there last Sunday? Either way, nice! Looks sweet! Did you see the pitch of gnar ice on top of the Black Dyke!