pms

It's a large ledge with room for at least 4 or more.

1972

thanks for the cool TR CRACKBOLTER. Was that another trip with RC? You guys rule!

Thanks everybody. These are all very helpfull, but I know there are more details we can clean up. Please let us have it. Sorry about screwing up the Maude approach and descent info. and a few other things, but your suggestions can really help. Please post your suggestions here, or you can email us at info@ProMountainSports.com Cheers, Jim Nelson

Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield are updating volume II of their Cascade climbing guide for a reprint. If you've noticed anything in that guide book that is incorrect or out of date, the authors would welcome a response. Simply reply to this post with any updates so that we can keep the guide book current. Thanks everyone.

I think your "tread lightly" suggestion is a good one. As long as they continue to let us use their parking lots to access the backcountry. It's a long walk from the PCT Trailhead lot, but that would be a logical lot to plow for Commonealth access.

I meant to say, last Sunday (01/10)

heard it through the grapevine. At least one party climbed the N face last Sunday (01/01). Reports of deep snow near the top of the N face.

Stephen, Heinz and I climbed Kyes a number winters ago via Quartz Creek. We approached up the North Fork Road out of Index. We camped a little ways up Quartz Cr. the first night, climbed Kyes and back the second day, and skied out on the 3rd day. Pretty nice winter trip if you get some decent conditions. We used a cheap sled on the road, and AT skies.

what I want to know is, with all this attention how long will it stay unclimbed? Can someone make one of those fun polls?

I've owned a number of different Ti rock pins. I've been real happy witht the strength and durability of all of them. Since I'm not using them for big wall nail ups, mine probably don't get hammered on that much. From the hammering I have done with mine alpine climbing, I'm impressed with their toughness.

A little over a year ago I used the direct route to Cascade Pass for a climb of Mix-up with my friend Doug. Doug uses this route regularly and says he got back down to the parking lot from the pass in about 10 minutes once in the early summer with snow cover. After the snow is gone lower down and what we did was start at the last swithback on the road, and just below the parking lot. We crossed the creek to the south side and then followed close to the creek for a ways until we were able to cross back to the north side above the large brushy patch above the parking lot. From here it was pretty smooth sailing and certainly faster that the trail. There is a small path through the cliff band and then not much further to the pass. When I talked with Mike Swayne about it he said he used to use it all the time in the 60's as did others. Not everyone will like this route however as there is some talus hidden under the bushes. On the other hand if more folks start going this way there wil be a nice path before to long. Enjoy

from McGreggor?

is it Agnes, Gunsight, and Elephanthead. From Junction Mt. maybe

might be a candidate for a climb that could use its own set of TR chains. Not because of the rating questions, but because it's a good climb that could use some TR chains. This is a good place to debate this suggestion.

sandbagger mattp

That's purrdy! And your numbers? Looks like some big roofs.

CB, Do you mean the Night Ranger aka The Gaper? I know you do. He will be snapping his fingers and talken bout squares

Ray, I quite enjoyed a traverse of the three Gothic's a few years ago. Very little 5th class but you get 3 summits. Let me know if you want to borrow a 30m rope.

Fatboy speed climbers. Seriously though alpine tom is mostly correct about our time guesstimates. Still 8-10 hours seems way to long, I think mistake. What would be a good time range for future printings? What other times, or info. can be corrected or improved?

Juan, You might consider a traverse where you could get multiple summits. Just a thought....

Hey John, What else looks good to you that's still unclimbed out there? Maybe you could give us one a week or something. Pretty please.

If a couple of fat guys like Ray and myself can go from Prusik (w. ridge) to Boxtop and hike out, then it is certainly feasible. You could get lots of summits.

I liked it, and thought the rock was good for the area, at least on the regular route from Gunsight Notch, up and across the ne face, to the ridge a short ways west of the summit. Pretty nice area, enjoy.

Scott, Met you a few weeks ago on the hike down from Forbidden. You were with the Midget. Reguarding the loose bolt on Chianti, is it the 8mm bolt that is loose or the larger diameter insert that's loose? Hand tight should be ok as long as the insert piece is tight. Tightning the bolt will not tighten the insert. It's the type with a pound in expander cone at the end of the hole. It's a 3 part bolt. 8mm bolt (silver color), insert (brass color), and expander cone (not visible). If the insert is loose as you suggest, then carefully pushing (pounding) the insert in a little below the rock surface may push the expander cone in further and hopefully tighten the insert. Nice looking piece of rock on the west face of Silver Star btw. very nice!