pms

barbie thinks Fred looks cuter and younger witht the new cut. go dude

I like the pics from Hyalite on his site. makes me wanna go there...

did I read into this tread that some Canadians telemarked Willis Wall. cool

Captain, Next time I should go first(w/back-up)and you should go last(without back-up)cause I'm fatter. [ 10-29-2002, 11:25 AM: Message edited by: pms ]

[ 03-09-2002: Message edited by: pms ]

Thanks to Mike G. for raising public awareness. It is our park. I have some thoughts, and wonder what others think. I have some previous mountain guiding experience, but am no longer doing that work since 1995. I believe a good option for the public, park, and the guiding industry; would be for independent UAMGA guides to be the sole guiding concessionaire on Rainier and other public lands as well. I think this would be especially good for the public. Everybody wins with that system more than any other I think. Most people will be willing to pay professional rates, for quality instruction/leadership. It would most likely be less expensive than the current RMI prices. The clubs would continue to provide valuable training as well, though I might suggest that clubs consider hiring certified guides to help design courses, and train instructors. More important issues to me, are the services that the park provides to myself, and other non-guided, , non-motorized backcountry, tree hugger people. A nicer public facility at Muir would be my dream. Windows, double door, public stove, etc. I might still sleep out side, but it sure would be nice to get out of the wind and weather to cook and warm up. That, and less restricted backcountry access. I'll send my letter to the park superintendent. Lets all send a letter. Jim Nelson [ 03-09-2002: Message edited by: pms ] [ 03-09-2002: Message edited by: pms ]

I remember hearing from Tim Wilson that he wore snowshoes up the North Butt. Couloir once. Someone will ski it. Not me, or Cavey.....maybe you.

I agree wrist leashes get in the way, but are almost allways recommended. How about using the Grivel "leashless" tool, without wrist leash? Leashless with one hand, and wrist leash for the other hand. You could still have a leash tied to your waist harness, in case you drop the leashless tool. Tying the leash to a chest harness would shorten the leash (reduce the tangle factor), and might be nice. I have several Grivel Top Machines availible for free demo if folk want to play with this idea.

By Big White, Ray

Haireball, I've heard of a small canyon a short ways up Mountaineer Cr. Aproached from Mountaineer Cr. Road above Bridge Cr. Campground. Rumored to have some fun ice climbs. Just wondering if anyone has been up there this year, and what you might know about conditions as the season progresses. Keep the reports coming.

With the Sabertooths, I'm wondering what folks think about the "secondary" front points. For my money I prefer the Grivel G-12, and Stubai Tirol design. Much better secondary front point design, plus nicer binding choices.

I can suggest an easy way to improvise a strong haul loop, by carefully girth hitching a 12" sewn runner to the back of most harnesses.

it sounds like a smart place for a good bolt. Thanks to that person.

I like to include the Pocket Doctor by Stephen Bezruchka for most trips. It's small (4"x6", 4oz) and is an amazing rescource. A to Z type of thing.

It will be interesting to hear some reports on how much snow fell yesterday, at say the 8'000' elevation.

I'm with cmonster. That snowfield is steep. You could also consider bringing 1 pair of crampons for two people. One crampon each?

Here's my vote to open it for the public. Probably a shuttle system of some kind. Then folks would have another place to hike and climb. Probably a new parking lot would be necessary somewhere. Why not?

Kit Lewis described to me a route that he uses. I used it the last time I was there, even though I made a route finding mistake, and ended up making a rapel. From very near (east) of the popular start: A gully angles up and right towards the ridge separating Boston Basin from Boston Glacier. The tricky part is figuring out where to leave the gully to the left (west). 4th class climbing quickly leads to the ridge, at a point where you can access the Boston Glacier with out a rapel. Not paying attention, we continued up the gully (not recommended)to the ridge. I think I had a good look at the area Kit described, and pictures (Beckey Guide) show it also. Hope this helps. Jim

Correction on that. I meant to say Maude/Seven Fingered Jack. not Maude/Fernow. Jim

I think Peter and I blew it on our approach recommendation for the North Face of Maude climb. I think at the next printing, we will change it to recommend the traverse around the south side of the mountain, with a mention of the Fernow/Maude Col descent as a more technical option. Anyone with details of the Fernow/Maude Col descent, I would be very interested to hear from. I have not done the climb, and appologize for the mistake. Jim Nelson

I wonder what it would take to get them to spend a little on the public hut at Camp Muir. The place is an embarasment.

I am someone whose opinion was solicited before the recent bolts were added to DDD. I didn’t really think it was my place to say one way or another, but gave an enthusiastic thumbs up, with the suggestion to keep some of the adventure on the upper two thirds. After reading some of the comments here, I feel different now. Because Castle Rock belongs to everyone, next time I would recommend installing tope-rope anchors to begin with. This would give folks a chance to do the climb, debate the issues, number of bolts, etc. No reason to rush a decision that everyone cares so much about. Perhaps popular opinion would be against adding bolts, and if so I would support that. Now that it has been bolted, let’s see what folks are saying a year or two from now. I expect that most folks who do the climb will agree with the current placements, and number of bolts. If not, careful removal of a bolt or two is probably an option. To those who oppose all bolts, remember that bolts have been used at Castle Rock from the beginning. To anyone contemplating chopping I would ask, please climb the route first to gain more perspective. I’m also interested to hear what the people who have led the climb without the bolts think? I’m also wondering what it would it be like to lead the climb without clipping the bolts? Is this too radical of an idea? I think it’s debatable whether or not bolts “damage the rock”. Certainly there is impact, but even you Donna (by being there) have impact. Roads, concrete, and steel are what I consider “damage”, yet even these are acceptable to me when well planned. I’ve been thinking how much I’ve enjoyed climbing at Castle Rock over the years, and look forward to many more. Adventure is one quality I personally would like to see retained in our sport, but see no shortage. I would also like to be able to enjoy a good sport route now and then. Having recently climbed the Condorphamine alpine sport route, I thought it was one of the nicest, fun climbs I’ve done in the Icicle Canyon. Thanks to Donna for starting this discussion. It’s an important issue and important to hear what people think. pms ------------------ [This message has been edited by pms (edited 05-22-2001).]

Mattski, This sounds like a great route, on a great section of rock. Keep up the good work. Jim

Erik, Your carabiner will get real warm, but the ropes should be ok, as with other rapel systems. With the Munter, even though the rope runs across rope, it's always moving to a new spot so it doesn't damage the rope. Surprisingly, you can even control(eliminate)the twisting by playing with the angle you feed the rope with the brake end. I think it's a viable emergency rapel system, and a good lowering method, that is smooth and easy to control. Playing, testing is fun.

I just wanted to second Forrest's suggestions for the Fury climb. I should also add that I've not done the climb, but think Forest's suggestions are right on. Know the descent, and camp and climb from Luna. Jim Nelson