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pms

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Everything posted by pms

  1. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/images/icons/default/laugh.gif laughhttp://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/images/icons/default/laugh.gif laugh yep, I'm an idiot ask oly
  2. I with enelson and loved Tracy Kidder's, "Mountains Beyond Mountains". Amazing book. and "The Climb" was really good too.
  3. good one Wayne, thanks for reminding about the Pencil.
  4. Finish your lists. Looks like I’m tied with John for Vol. I, but Andreas may have more. The Cascades have so many peaks many cool lists are possible, all good. When a few of you finish this one I’d like to organize a nice party. Variety was our thing with this one, and a desire to have some Cascade climbing pictures published. As a chronic repeater I know how difficult it is to finish any list. You find a climb you like and you just want to keep going back. Maybe the important thing is to do a lot of climbs. No, I’m sure the important thing is to complete as many lists as possible. Extra credit for speed ascents, summit bivy’s, ski descents, multi day brush affairs, fastest completion of lists, first person from Oregon, etc.
  5. ooh, now we're talkin. Any fixed pro on the crux pitch on #5? Give us another 6 for a bakers doz. I thought that climb last year on Whitehorse sure looked awesome for a 2nd WA. Can I spread a rumor of a possible ski descent of the K/M on Middle Index. I think I'd be happy with a 2nd ascent CLIMB of that one.
  6. Persis sounds cool. How about Ptarmigan Traverse as per original.
  7. we need numbers. what are your numbers?
  8. Let's wait to hear more details from the Sherman report. I believe Edelweiss gives a 12kn strength rating for their 7mm Dyneema slings slings when girth-hitched.
  9. ice climbing on der toof are you kidding me. perhaps you have heard of the mighty electric chair? no ice there either only snice. seriously though the 1st pitch is classic mixed. fun looking at Loren's TR. when is someone going to venture onto the wickedness a little right of the original east face route? a larger meaner Rap Wall perhaps.
  10. dry-tool
  11. This looks like fun. Count me in. A chance to try out the new gear, and hear stories of the hardest dry-tool route in the world. John, do you know about gut-hooks? Jim Nelson
  12. Is this a Beckey route? original climb of peak rt. maybe?
  13. did you travel lightweight? very Stoddardesque. Nice!
  14. That looks like fun stuff Monkey. Like DH says there is some some nice looking rock on that face. Eve Dearborne and I climbed the Mahre route I think it is, finishing with the Gendarme in late season in about 83 I think. I hadn't seen your tr from Feb. That looks really nice. I think I recognize some of the terrain in your pics. I think you were very close to the summit. I think I bivied just above your high point with Cotter and Pilling one time. There might be some steep unclimbed terrain on the lower part of that face. Might even be some cracks there. cheers
  15. not even a 4" necessary? what about a free rating?
  16. hard to say the difficulty free, though it is a short section. 2 of the 4"-5" size might be enough, take 3 and you'd be golden. I remember hanging on my big cams so hopefully you or somone else can give us a good free rating. the next pitch is 4 or 5 star as I remember. I bet pp would rate it about 10.c hey DC do you know this crack?
  17. Nice. Having climbed the route a couple times myself, I'd say your description is right on. Think you'll ever climb it again? "drinking white lightning started all the fighting" George Jones
  18. nice TR. Nolse does some nice trips. I can only imagine what he has planned next.
  19. Hey spyder Dan, what about those parasail things?
  20. I will guess that the average overnight temps. at the notch for the month of July will be 40 degrees F. 38 for August. Have fun, and be sure to share any rodent excitment.
  21. why not just climb the route with a day pack, and then return to camp via the south side descent, and then back to camp via Good/Storm King Col. Many ways to do it of course. All good.
  22. this is absolutley not possible. Impossible I say. Particularly for Skykilo.
  23. dreamy looking. awesome pictures dood. way better than that other TR.
  24. calm down Fats. Another cup of Jo fer sho
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