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Alex

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Everything posted by Alex

  1. Alex

    Next Step?

    Easier: Sandy Headwall, though they are both similar and both have some interesting difficulties. Recommend: Adams Glacier, for its size and scenic qualities Please visit http://www.mountainwerks.com/alexk/climb/adams.htm for some pictures Sandy Headwall's most interesting part is its approach, if you traverse higher over Yocum Ridge, rather than skirt the lower Yocum. Otherwise the route is unremarkable and (dare I say) boring. Adams Glacier is a larger route, not any steeper really, but certainly has much much larger crevasses on it, and thus inherently more dangerous. Additionaly, Adams Gl descent down the N Ridge is unsavory and long and exposed, while Sandy Headwall's descent down the SouthSide is quite mellow. [ 02-12-2002: Message edited by: Alex ]
  2. Hi Erik, Jason Martin and I are currently writing a guide to Washington State ice climbing. A very early draft may be found here http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/iceinwashington.htm It will give you some good ideas about local ice both near Seattle and further afield. A later draft is currently under publisher review. We hope to have the book published and on the shelves for next season. Alex Krawarik
  3. you'd call her the same thing you would call a single guy in a bar trolling for a date.
  4. I saw the following quality gear FS at Second Ascent on Friday night Charlet Grade 8 mono points. If I didnt already have a pair, I would have bought them, one of the best technical crampons around. I saw a 55cm X15 BRS adze, with old-style reverse droop (not Stinger) pick and garbage leash. But the tool was in good shape. Put a stinger and a real leash on it and it would be great! Various ice screws I dont know prices, dont know if its all still there, and am not affiliated with 2nd Ascent, just trying to pass on the info on good gear. Alex
  5. Second Ascent in Ballard has a few of them
  6. Dan E and I went to L'worth yesterday and enjoyed a warm sunny day ice climbing Hubba Hubba. The main flow is thin and detached somewhat, but fine with 10cm and 13cm screws, the second pitch has little ice and is mostly snow. Another party lead the main flow on tied off 17cm screws. The flow in the gully to the right of the main flow was thinner and more fragile (lots of pick dullage there), but lower angle and also made for a great lead. With the cold nights predicted for the next few days, the lines on the hill should only get better. Drury was sealed up and looked interesting from the road. The ice looks chandeliered and steep. Pencil is not in. Other iced up slabs around L'worth also look like they are forming/climbable, especially that one just outside of town facing E as you head up the highway to Stevens, but other smaller things are coming into shape in the Icicle Canyon as well. Alex
  7. whats it look like if you combine last years drought with this years bounty? I bet we would be under the mean still.
  8. I'm there. Icegirl, bring some mazama pix.
  9. brody0 When I first started using this site, i thought it would be exactly like what you seem to want it to be....a site to trage conditions and beta. When people started posting bullshit, I started a now infamous thread named "Spray Detracts From This Site" (go look it up), hoping that others would see the world as I wanted it to be. Lots of people flamed me, but a few, not the least being ultra-sray KING Dru, offered some useful suggestions, reiterated to some extent in this thread: Its not about using the site at all, its about how you use it. Consider changing your entry point (as Capt Cavement suggested) to a forum like "ice reports" that is really dedicated to conditions and beta, rather than just the Climbers Wall. Consider other options on the internet, like CASBC or the rock and ice sites for ice climbing conditions in the rockies. You will be insulated from the BS, and then can go to various area-specific forums, or do searches, or post questions as you see fit. In general you will spend less time, and less time wasted, here, but will enjoy it more... The climbers wall, and this site in general, has very little to do with climbing, it has to do with 95.6% of us working 5 days a week near machines with internet access. Hope this helps, Alex
  10. if you have tons of gear to trade, take it on down to Second Ascent in Ballard, get store credit, and choose one of the many nice down jkts they have there... Alex
  11. Alex

    sleeping bags

    no, I gave it back to partner without ever cleaning it, and without telling him about it. bust out with your own tale, trask my boy, before you idly speculate on the fate of other's bags!
  12. Alex

    sleeping bags

    I borrowed a bag for my Alaska trip, a dryloft bag from a good climbing partner. One of the first nights I was there I was using my piss bottle for the first time. Didnt realize a 16 oz bottle wouldnt be nearly big enough. As the bottle quickly filled, I realized a little too late and got a little piss on the inside of the bag, and on the floor of the tent as it hastily tried to get the full bottle out the door. My tent partner was laughing his head off as I tried to hold off my stream while scrambling to empty bottle out into a -35C night.
  13. I have a Fit Kit 4 (Honda Civic 85?) and another Fit Kit that fits an 86 Honda Civic hatchback If you have a mid-80s Honda, they are yours free.
  14. < Sold > [ 02-14-2002: Message edited by: Alex ]
  15. I bought them from W, but after using them a few times they ended up just being too big for me. These really are XL gloves. If they ft you they'll be the ticket for water ice and skiing, very warm, very durable, and in very good shape, PM me if interested
  16. If you take the standard deduction, you dont get squat. If you do itemized deductions, Schedule A, you can list charitable donations for both cash and non-cash donations.
  17. Dude, I watched that show for the woman ace mechanic, not Michael Knight "lone crusader in a shadowy world.." Turbo Boost!
  18. Alex

    More spray!

    Zeno j'ai, tu as, il a nous avons, vous avez, ils ont
  19. taz, you can't see it from the parking lot, its at the top of the quad chair, on the left. It is WI4, around 30m. We roped up at around 7am and were off the route when the mountain opened. I know there has been some recent discussion on the spectacle nature of doing this route and I agree: doing it during business hours just increases the chances of access issues in the future. Climb it early before work, or climb it on Mondays. Went up to Alpental valley today. It was warm in the valley, cold at the base of the Tooth. Alpental Falls buried, Kiddie Cliff buried. Bryant Butress has ice thats longer than Kiddie Cliff and now a well-packed trail to the base. Some of the more remote climbs would take major work to get to through this snowpack.
  20. good to hear people are getting out. On Tues mvs and I went up to the climb under the chairlift at alpental ski area for a fun and exciting 25-30m or relatively snow-free ice. Pretty good stuff, despite the traffic it sees! Alex
  21. I just went through this process of buying a sled. Expect to pay quite a bit of money for something that works, and even more if you need a trailer. I got REALLY lucky and got away with a working sled and trailer for under 1000$, but typically you can expect to pay 1000$ for the sled alone, and then another 500$ for a trailer. Expect to learn about snowmobile maintenance very quickly. They are temperamental and routinely have problems. If its not the sled, its the trailer. I am very excited at the prospects though. Accessing skiing, ice and alpine climbs looks like its going to be alot quicker for those several trips I might take a year where a long approach on a road is reality. 1) I dont know. I think it mostly depends on who else is around. If you are deep in the backcountry, I doubt you will have problems. If you are a mile from the trailhead on the mountain loop highway, there might be more of a concern, but I am just speculating. 2) Rentals are typically 100-150$ a day. There are very few places that rent, and some only rent the sled, not the means to get it somewhere. Renting sucks.
  22. late March will be tough. Wy or Banff, and Banff is closer. Alex
  23. I thought the template was: "This is RURP:enlightened commentRURP has spoken."
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