Alex

robertm, thats a nitpick that most climbers overlook...? I would wager half of all ascents of "TC" have bypassed 2nd couloir altogether, but it shouldnt matter its only 100 yards right and the climbing isnt much easier. To further illustrate my point, hypothetically now: If I climb the North Ridge of Stuart but dont climb the direct start, I have not climbed the North Ridge of Stuart? If I dont climb the 2 pitches on the Gendarm, rather opt for the rap, I have not climbed the North Ridge of Stuart? But since the first ascent didnt climb the Gendarm, then if you *do* climb the Gendarm, you havent climbed the North ridge of Stuart? who cares, its the North Ridge of Stuart, and you'll ahve awesome memories and an awesome climb any little way you do it.

I'll take that stuff...

Might as well add that NE Buttress was also in great shape, at least 4 parties went up it Saturday (including 1 soloist). My right crampon came off and dangled from my boot during the "cruxy" ice section high up Pretty interesting trying to stay in balance and put that damn thing back on with only 2 points of pro in and no belay.

Dear God, ski Cooper Spur? Those have to be pretty damn good conditions for me to risk that wipe-out and ...oh...2500 foot fall the the glacier...

last I heard Sultan Basin was still closed, so I dont know if you are actually allowed back there yet...?

righteous

right on, awesome!

Tumwater is the deep canyon outside of Leavenworth, WA that US Higway 2 and the Wenatchee river wind through. There is quite of bit of ice in Tumwater, however chances are none of it will last until the 2nd week of March. Still, if it stays as cold as it has been the last week, you never know

The ham is awesome of you can find work there. Thats a big IF. But yeah, Bagelry, Casa Que Pasa, Little Cheerful, and even Haggens. Easy going to Squamish, Chuckanut, Larabee, Mt Erie, Baker, Twin Sisters, Shucksan, Northern Pickets, NOCA and even points South. If work let me telecommute, I would live there.

sweet!

In April 1994 I came down from my hermit cabin in Gov't Camp OR to climb/ski Mt St Helens. It was getting pretty late at night and I had never driven up there before, so on the windy road to Cougar, WA, I was taking my time. There was a huge Suburban tailgating my poor little Honda the entire way in, never passing me, just tailgating me. So I get into town and pull off the road to self register. The suburban pulls up next to me and I am thinking "logger saw my hippy climbing stickers and is now going to pummel my hippy tree-huggin' ass". Out steps a beatiful young early 20-something year old woman. "Hey there,""Hi" <gaping>Young 20-something proceeds to tell me I drive like a granny, but if I want, she will give me some driving lessons next time I come through town. Proceeds to tell me where she lives, I should look her up. "Um, ..ok!" <still gaping> I ask her (desperately) if she is into skiing, tell her I am going up the hill. She doesnt ski. We head our seperate ways. On the outskirts of town (remember, I am in Cougar, WA) a fully grown Mountain Lion pops into my headlights, and lazily jumps of the road. My plan changes from sleeping outside my car to sleeping inside my car. On the way out, I dropped by her place, but she was not home. Felt it was too wierd to try to explain the whole situation to her dad, so just left. Without her number

good job with the rescue, W

quote: Originally posted by Dru:[QB]What the hell type of file is a .swf?QB] Shockwave Flash

thats a pretty good one... "Molucular Biologist uses much suspicious white powder...in cookies....coworkers think they taste ok....100s dead....story at 11."

on with the body count!

I would say that if you have not been able to teach her correct belay technique, you should not try now. Couples climbing always presents difficulties; in this case I would do several things -- 1) Does she like to climb or is she just climbing for you? Did she climb before you met her? Converting a girlfriend into a climber is sometimes not a good idea, for lots of reasons, but the reason I ask is because *if* she is actually climbing because she likes it and not just to make you happy, then 2) Talk to her frankly and tell her her belay technique sucks. Now comes the hard part: 3) suggest she learn better belay technique from a class or *someone other than you*. Hire a guide to teach her for a day. It will be worth the money. When she learns from someone other than you, there wont be any of the sublte couples-stuff going on. She will become a better belayer. Both of you will be happier. I suggest all this because at one time I tried to "convert" a non-climbing girlfriend into a climber. She thought it was all novel, but had no desire to get better since she wasnt really interested in *climbing*. Alex

chances are they are cheaper at Barrabes, or some place else. Do a little research. http://www.barrabes.com Case in point: REI Petzl Ecrin Roc helmet? 74$Barrabes Petzl Ecrin Roc helmet? 54$

I was on Lower Town Wall on Sunday and it sure was nice sitting around in the sun, despite a little wetness. Lower Town wall was much dryer than Upper Town Wall (there was a snowstorm, dont you know?), and provided very uncrowded (1 other guy on the wall, on City Park) pleasant climbing. I would expect Upper wall to be drying out nicely by now, go get on it...!

NY Gully - no, there is no TR. Colin went in last winter and just did it. Thats pretty much what you are going to have to do for whatever objective you want to try...very few climbers out there are on these routes, and fewer still care to post anything if/when they have climbed them. You're pretty much on your own when it comes to winter alpine. As it should be. Alex

quote: Greybeard N.Face This is a spring route best done when higway 20 opens quote: (someone please post when Hwy 20 opens!) The Washington DOT maintains a website with this information. Highway 20 opening is usually a large enough event that it makes local news. quote: -Dragontail Tripple Couloirs - bet they're good right now I bet they are too. quote: -Mile 115 on Cascade River Road-look across the river and spot two or three nice falls -they have names (WI4 2-3 p maybe). They were in late last November. Do you mean Highway 20? Cascade River Road is not 100 miles long, only about 24 miles long. Alex

Right on!!

any1? puuuleeeze I dont want to shell out my dividenz for a new helmut

no, the road is not plowed. We accessed the area from Mazama, by snowmobile and skis. The road is plowed to Silverstar Creek on the Mazama side, quite close (!!) to these climbs. With a sled its a very easy jaunt up the road about - guessing - 6-7 miles to where Willow Creek enters the main drainage.

I didnt climb (I was skiing, sort of) but its a commonly climbed set of routes from WI3 - 4+ Alex

no posers on Native Son, so thats where you need to be Alex