Alex

Gene, you're older than dirt, no one would want to climb with you even if you offer to be a Sherpa! I have Mon/Tues off...?

yeah, doing triple backs with no net is probably a little more psycho than leading, like, with a rope and everything. I've found that people that find numbers important are typically people who are very goal oriented, or have never climbed at those numbers and (as has been said) want the reputation/notoriety/fame that goes with "big numbers". There is really nothing *wrong* with that as long as it doesnt hurt anyone else...if you have a big ego, and you need to compete (silently or otherwise) against people to get your motivation to climb, then thats *your* deal. There's nothing wrong with that, until you start putting others down for not being AS COOL AS YOU. To me, thats the line. Bragging is one thing, berating is completely differnt. It always turns me off when I meet people who are ultra-competetive and not secure enough to just enjoy what they do for their own reasons. I don't think anyone here can deny that self-esteem is tied to accomplishment, but I think I've found that the more secure people are in their lives and position, the less "big number" accompishment they need in climbing. For those whose lives ARE climbing, big numbers come simply because these people climb all the time and at a higher standard. Indeed, most of the most supportive climbers I know are that way because they have become secure in their abilities and accomplishments, and dont feel the need for you to be "as good as" them or compete in any way. Nice thread, Alex

I have actually written an online article on this (http://www.mountainwerks.com/alexk/climb/light.htm), here is a synopsis: softgoods: * ultra light sleeping bag in the summer, I use a down Ushba bag that weighs 1.4 pounds. * ulta light goretex. Shoeller sucks like everything else in a real rainstorm. I use an Arcteryx Beta LT jacket these days. * ultra light tent or bivy, if you take shelter. Bibler or...you have a Garuda last I knew..? Hardware: * no stove * Aluminum crampons. DA Bomb! I thought they would break first trip out. I was wrong! * Neutrinos and Helium biners. 36-37g per biner. * ultra light axe, or no axe and only poles with self arrest grips * poles are worth the weight! * light rope. For easy climbing, a strand of 8.5 and a strand of 7 to rap with. For hard/technical climbs, a 9.4 lead line, and the 7 rap strand * platypus/camelback collapsable water bags. Reduces bulk when not filled. * iodine tablets ...and so much more!

Serpentine is a nice intro to longer Dragontail routes, but is junk above mid-height. Backbone is much nicer. The offwidth isnt *that* long, and its at the beginning of the route. 1 or 2 large (#3, #4 camalot) cams can protect it, and then it over with and you have the rest of teh day to enjoy a great route. If you are unfamiliar with Dragontail, or are a slow(er) climber, I would not do Backbone as my first route there unless you are solid in the grade with a solid partner.

I did Sahale (with intent to climb Boston too) on Sunday 9/23 via Qien Sabe Glacier. Depending on your fitness, Sahale is a 10-hour round trip jaunt from the car, so unless you really like carrying overnight gear for a day climb, you wont need to camp. The glacier is straight forward navigation even now, with a steep slope leading to Boston-Sahale col. It wasnt very cold overnight, but you will need crampons in the morning. From Boston Sahale col, Sahale summit is 20 minutes away if you don't belay the final 80 feet to the summit. Boston looked like a shitpile so we didnt even try. Sahale and Boston are described in-depth in Beckey's Green and both Nelson guides. Alex

Mike Stanton, Mike Adamson and I went into Colchuck very late last season last year (November sometime), Colchuck Gl. was very low angle. If you are looking to two-tool it, I would suggest NE Face Eldorado N Face Observation (very short!) Big Four Ice Caves Coleman Glacier seracing stuff like that. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 09-24-2001).]

I got the miniworks a few years ago. I dont use it all that often, but no complaints.

If you look at his profile and check out the web page, it has the same message in English and German. And .as is what postfix for email..? I actually dont this this was a troll (as few people go through that much effort), I think he is a serious - though misguided in what he'll get for free - youth looking to make his mark on the climbing world. Good Luck Nick, Alex

I have a 1993 Bibler I-Tent. No problems whatsoever so far, and its been to Alaska and back. Perhaps it makes a difference if you buy the Bibler pre-BlackDiamondSellOut or post-BlackDiamondSellOut..? Alex

Although the smell of Goode as been known to whip young whippersnappers into a frenzy! Tried to climb NF Big Four on Saturday. On the Brush Scale, a nice solid 3! We bailed, I would be more interested when the thing is buried in snow. Found a few different sets of rap anchors, all in pretty scary condition. Alex

take them for sure. The glacier is short, but could be pretty icy. Mybe I'll see you up there this weekend.. Alex

After some random Fall cleaning, I found some things I no longer use: Large Pro: I have an assortment of Lowe(Camp) Tri-Cams in the large sizes I no longer use. Size 7, 6, 5, 3.5, 3, 2.5. Would like to sell as a set. 3 large Hexs. Size 10, 8, 7. For you crazy aid climbers out there, I have two secret weapons - CMI RockJocks. Cam Units for wide ultra-shallow placements. The two largest sizes. < Leashes *Sold* To Ryan > 2 brand-new never-used Black Diamond Ice Tool Leashes (not androids). Sell as a set. Large figure 8 device. Kong GiGi (I got a Reverso). Prices: make me a fair offer. e-mail please. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 09-13-2001).]

just an update on this continuing success story, 60m 8.5 Edelweiss dry rope, 75$ arrived in TWO DAYS!! from Spain. Three Cheers! Alex

Pencil, I use both a Reverso and a GiGi. I like using them because they are self-locking, and provide a hands-free belay from above for one or two seconds. The Reverso can be used additionally just like an ATC, for belaying a leader (while a GiGi cannot). I have been climbing with the GiGi for a year now, and have done routes as diverse as Drury Falls and Medow Inspiration Route on Goat Wall with three people, in fast style, using it. I only recently got my Reverso, have only used it once, but it is pretty similar in concept to the GiGi and I like it so far! Highly recommeded! Alex

what I am waiting to see is who on this thread gets the Chestbeater of the Month award. I stayed home, wired some electrical outlets, painted some drywall in the basement, blew a couple of breakers, went on a Home Depot spree, drank 1 beer... Alex

Dru, its like Hotel California, but without the implied good time...

VerticalTurtle, You can solo the first 2 pitches. Easy class 5, a little friable. There is alot of rope drag on pitch 4, thats probably going to require long slings. Its a shorter 5.7 pitch but winds a little first left then up and right. From the ledge at the top of 4, the bolt ladder to the corner of the arete and next belay doesnt have too much drag, and thereafter there are no rope drag issues. A stick clip might be nice if you plan to solo the route. Alex

Copyright © 2001. G. Bruce.

I did the WMA WFR course in Portland a few years ago, it was a great course with good teachers, and a fun group of students. I recommend WMA. A week after I completed the course a VW bug with 7 people in it was broadsided and rolled by an Isuzu Trooper right in front of me, I and an off-duty EMT took care of things until the paramedics arrived. A week later I got to treat a fractured leg on Louise Falls in the Canadian Rockies. You get alot of confidence out of courses like this, every climber should take one and stay current. Alex

I like Silverstar Creek, not as much elevation gain/loss. More bugs though. Alex

Remembering is like a dream. Dreams are surreal in color, things are out of place, but in the dream they are natural, the way things should be, the way they have always been. It was supposed to be just something basic. Kristi had been pestering for me to go for weeks, so I finally hit the books (Beckey, Volume 3) and found something that would be challenging and suitable for both of us, but not too far out there. Kristi was a very good climber. She pulled down hard at 38 and plugged the pro on Davis Holland. I thought I was a stud because I ran laps on Godzilla. (It didnt matter that even after 2 years of trying I couldnt pull the opening move of The Second Pitch.) This was going to be no problem. Like all trips into the mountains, this one started with us hastily packing the Subaru on a lazy Friday afternoon. Getting to the North Cascades was going to be a casual drive, we were going to miss rush hour... [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 08-09-2001).]

Ted, Ushba equipment is pretty high quality. These are not the same TI screws that made appearances at REI and EMS for 3$ a pop several years ago. here are some stats: http://www.ushba.com/catalog/ice.html#ti%20III The real question is, how well do they place compared to a BD or smileys screw, with one hand, on lead? If you think that they are about the same, there is no real reason not to beef up your rack with them. If you think that the BD or Smileys (personally, I hate express screws in most cases) screws place and clean much easier, then they are worth the weight. I personally like the TI screws. Both Ushba and Grivel(?) make good, beefy TI screws that are lighter than the comparable CRO-MOLY screw. But my rack is still mostly steel. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 08-06-2001).]

nevermind [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 08-06-2001).]

I wish I new dutch!

my two favorite topics! http://britneyspears.ac/lasers.htm