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Everything posted by Alex
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##### [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 04-12-2001).]
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pete, http://www.google.com/ type in "Ptarmigan Traverse" I found lots of relevant TR's and hits
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As of Sunday, the road is plowed past 8-mile CG. Mountaineers Creek gate is closed. There is no snow on the southerly sides of the Icicle, there is alot of snow on the northerly sides - but that said, looked like SCW was dry. The rock on most other Icicle domes was dry.
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Ade, I'm not sure how often Mitch reads, so here is the description he sent me. Requiem will be one of the many routes featured in our forthcoming guidebook to Washington State Ice Climbing... Cheers, Alex Requiem for the Post-Modern World - WI 5+ R/X Length: 150' First ascent: Mitch Merriman, Alec Gibbons 1/27/97 Approach: Drive north from Wenatchee on Hwy 97A and park one mile S. of Rocky Reach Dam. Route: 150' of steep, thin, technical climbing and difficult protection. On the first ascent, substantial portions involved climbing on small mushrooms/cauliflower ears plastered onto rotten rock. Very cool. If using a 50m rope, you must belay very high and risk falling ice or climb the route in two pitches, belaying in the cave 3/4 of the way up the route. Descent: Walk off to the right. [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 03-27-2001).]
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I find it disturbing that people flame even when helpful information is being offered. I find it disturbing that others would in any way tolerate this behavior. No thanks, so long. Alex
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The earliest time to go will depend on how much time you have. For most climbers it is when White River opens, which in some years is as early as Memorial Day weekend, and some years is into July. This is the std. starting point for most attempts on Lib Ridge, and allows fast times as the approach trail is well broken, the traverse across the Winthrop and Curtis ridge straightforeward. Otherwise, the approach is from the (much lower in elevation) Ipsut Creek entrance, which adds a good day to the approach and half day to the descent. I have done both approaches, White River is by *far* the more desirable, in my opinion. However Lib Ridge in early season (like...now) can be very enjoyable and safe, and you may choose to go from Ipsut Creek. Best bet is to call the park and find out when White River is scheduled to open.
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looks like I am going "skiing"!
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Hi, I have some limited experience with Wild Things packs and have what I believe is one of the best-designed alpine packs around, the Trango Alpine. It is the right size, climbs well, and is well made. Unfortunately, it is not manufactured anymore, but it serves as a great example of a perfectly sized and designed alpine pack. Its features, specifically: * 2 ice axe loops, tubes are overkill imo. * thin removable foam pad. This is a useful pad sitting on snow or cooking or for legs when sleeping, so now I only carry a 3/4 length pad in addition and use this backpad foamy for my legs when sleeping on snow. * its size is perfect for 2-3 day trips in the summer, including large rock rack and ropes, and long days ice climbing in the winter or even a light overnight in the winter. I routinely carry a Bibler, ultralight sleeping bag, stove, full complement of technical gear comfortably in this pack. * slightly padded hipbelt. Nothing like a Dana, but not just 2 inch webbing either. The hipbelt features a way to add gear loops. * ski slots. * light colored body to make finding something inside the pack during the day actually possible When looking for the perfect alpine pack, I believe this pack can serve as a good benchmark. Similar packs include the Cold Cold World Packs, Wild Things packs, and offerings by other random manufacturers.
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this is basically unsolicited junk mail. The second to last link, http://www.yourmailinglistprovider.com/unsubscribe.php?ffme is what you would click on to "unsubscribe" Alex
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Banff Ice-What are conditions like? Recomondations?
Alex replied to A_What??'s topic in Climber's Board
*** so much for trying to post something helpful. *** [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 03-23-2001).] -
looking at this website, it seems like the road may actually be open by this weekend..?? I might "go skiing" just to check it out... Alex
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Middle Fork Snoqualmie River Road: Possible Closure
Alex replied to mikeadam's topic in Climber's Board
of course, should the road close, you could always use a mountain bike -
Single is useful if cost is an issue, you prefer privacy, your buddy already has a ledge, or what have you. Double is lighter, but is actually smaller in sq ft per person. They are a little harder to set up, too as the whole thing is a lot wider than a single. A real nice addition is to get a tent pole and use it as a hoop lengthwise inside the fly, to keep the fly from sagging in on you. I like the A5 double with expedition fly. Alex
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Baltimore, you'll get over it eventually.. Alex
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I feel obligated to pass this on... Look at it.
Alex replied to rayborbon's topic in Climber's Board
While I support activism in general, I would like to hear the natural resource planner's and public land steward's takes on this was well. All too often these seemingly black and white issues tend to be far more complicated and have very far reaching consequences. I-695 is a perfect example of this. I used to work as a wildlife biologist for government, and every year I saw budgets shrink, people and natural resources LOOSE because not enough taxpayer money was spent on the environment. If you think you pay enough now friends, you are wrong. The sad truth is that unless something is PROFITABLE, people do not want to PAY FOR IT. Environmental stewardship is not profitable. With this in mind, I will HAPPILY forgoe a few lattes or the cost of a CD to help trail crews and natural resource management efforts. All I ask is that you be aware that there are many sides to activism. Get educated if you care at all, then make a choice. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 03-14-2001).] -
Between Backbone and Serpentine? Its pretty much just a big shallow/wide gully that shares the same top-out as Serpentine. In the Summer its dirty slabby rock with some small snow patches that stay late into the year.
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I have ordered from them, just a few months ago. Very reliable, efficient, and quick delivery to the US. No problems, yes I recommend them. Alex
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"Are you guys talking about Elliott Boston who is trying to be the first <EXTREMELY BOLD>African-American</EXTREMELY BOLD>"...
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Here is something to get you jazzed for next season! Paul Detrick and Bruce White on the first ascent of Salt and Pepper, Banks Lake, Jan 2001.
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By all means tip it, and remember to bring a camera!!
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Dude! That guy is such a BADA$$! A couple weeks ago he came back from a successful AbSoLuTeLy RAD free solo of N Rib of Slesse in winter, in plastics! KRA-ZEE! Then this past weekend him and a local guide punk chump went out and completed the first non-cheating full ascent of Salt and Pepper at Banks, at like I am NOT kidding **M8** on just the most HEINOUS rock, it was sick! Dude, midway through the M8-roof Elliot's crampon bail breaks so he figure-4s on this NASTEE little friable pocket and pulls on a spare with one hand!!! Both those guys are WAY certifiable! totally went up the backside of that BEAST! So anyway, no, never heard of 'im...
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Wish you were here was '75, while The wall was '79....? I prefer lyrics of the Final Cut to really motivate me...
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Shake n Warms are way better for cold hands than trying to figure out a vapor barrier system. You will seldom encounter cold cold enough to warrant thinking about VBL gloves of some sort - if you are then 1) you have Raynauds, which can be a very serious problem even in mild temps 2) your gloves suck in the first place, time to replace them 3) its cold enough to be using mittens or lobster mitts, a great alternative on colder days 4) its cold enough to use shake and warms I have only encountered cold temps a few times where I hesitated wearing my gloves, and that was ice climbing at various times in Banff. Cheers! Alex
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during the week is better...weekends are for climbing!
