Alex

I cannot help with Zone, but I would be fairly surprised if there was significant enforcement of them. Consider that 4 nights > a weekend, and almost everywhere on the mountain will be deserted come Sunday night. I can't imagine anyone giving you a real hard time over permits if there is no one else around. It sounds like you are planning a trip to Mt Rainier for crevasse practice, then a summit attempt? Might I suggest the following..? The first 2 days on the mountain, don't bother going up to the muir snowfield to camp. There really are (as has been alluded to) very few opportunities to practice crevasse rescue there. Instead, from Paradise head over to the base of the Nisqaully Gl, effectively the first 3rd of the approach to Kautz/Fuhrer Finger and Camp Hazard. There are PLENTY of crevasses there, and you should be able to find a really nice yet sheltered camp on the moraines in Nisqually Canyon. Pack for only 2 days. Then, when you are ready to go to Muir, head up to Panorama Point, cache your stuff, head down to the car (1 hour at most) get the other 4 days of food, and head up to Muir. Lighter & faster Cheers, Alex

Rock: I think what alot of people forget is that in the alpine, the 3rd and 4th is often wet, making soloing or even simulclimbing distasteful. I readily belay anything that isnt dry, clean, and easy. There is no shame in it. That said, if the terrain is really that easy, you will find yourself climbing 30m, placing a cam, climbing another 30m and belaying. This is slow, but not *that* slow, and gives the party some idea that if someone slips on a wet spot, not all is lost. Snow & Ice (in which case it isnt 3rd and 4th, its AI/WI2 or 3): solo, as the self arrest wont happen before both of you are falling uncontrollably down into the abyss.

I've found that carrying Oregon High along always helps sort out the mountain. When you are at the base of something on Hood, it is always bigger than the pictures suggest it will be, and its easy to get disoriented. Leutholds is no exception - as people have said its so wide that "couloir" is hardly apt. But If you take the extra few min at Illumination to sort out your route before you head down the backside and over the Reid, you'll see what needs to happen and can pick out some good landmarks off the photos. PS: You are certainly not the first party (not probably the last) to mistakenly climb the lower Yocum only to bail when you realized your mistake. I think anyone who has spent any time on that side of the mountain does that at least once! Alex

when I was on in Apr 99 (heavy snow year, like this one), the route was in shape enough to be done with randonee boots, as long as your crampons fit very well. Skis, I would think thats possible. Mattp did NEBC of Colchuck with skis on back this season, and while not as sustained as TC, it was not less steep or technical either. However, I would really question whether the ski down would be worth it. The top half of ASSguard pass tends to be very windblown and very icy. The decent is pretty fast even w/o skis With a party of three, you would be stupid not to bring double 8s. a single 50 isnt enough for the steeper sections with three, as there will be parts of the route you wont want to simulclimb at all. Alex

quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: If you rearrange barbarian, you get: Rai Barban Barboryon...? sounds kind of like a boring Capt Caveman to me

as in Brown and Rodden? Lisa Gnade, Steph Davis, Catherine Desteville has them both beat by miles, but we are talking about Ray here...a class by herself!

dunno if you guys have seen this one, but unlike summitpost.com (where the posts are by a whole 4 different people), this one seems to have some life and spunk http://www.offthedeck.com/phpBB/index.php

eh? who said anything about ending debates? I just wanna see it in an easily-found bucket, so I dont need to put out so many damn clicks to figure out where the beers at

hey, seems Pub Club, especially after a foul weather weekend when no one does anything in the mountains, get a lot of posts and threads...maybe we should put all this stuff in its own forum? Sure would make finding out where to go alot easier than wading through even more unrelated useless drivel!

PAGE TOP! See you at Ballard Grill [ 04-16-2002, 10:16 AM: Message edited by: Alex ]

the first 5 miles are flat, the second steep and windy enough to make skiing seem inefficient, so I would say (I've done this approach 3 times) that it would be way faster in later season superlight without skis, when there is little snow on the trail

oh my... the topic list started with 'Is "Long Finger" Jon a deep throating gaper?' well, now, THATS a question!!

ray, I thought for sure Lambone would get on your vote list..

it really looks like this thing should be open if not by now , then middle of next week? Thats pretty normal (Apr 15th or so), think I'm heading up to the pass next weekend!

Jason, you arent allowed to go kill yourself before we're published!

Hey Brian, I'll trade ya the 4 old camp screws for 3 old-but-never-been-placed original thickness snargs! You might have better luck donating that stuff to a gear shop (like the The Mountaineer in Keene Valley) that decorates their walls with nostalgia. Alex

It has come to my attention that there are now more than 2 (Alex, Phil) cc.commies out there with sleds. Jon, think its time to change the site to CascadeLazyAlpinistsOnSleds.com

nice autosig Greg I personally would love to see Dan Larson show up at a pub club sometime. Got to hand it to him, he takes the abuse and keeps climbing (unlike the rest of you girlies who just run to your momma! Or run to mine, for that matter!) to Dan

with the 400% snowpack we have this year, you're going to have plenty of time to climb, Anna, but are going to be pretty broke, too, I imagine.. Alex(veteran of the Pike/San Isabel NF)

boy I've looked at that thing quite a number of times and I dont think it has enough water coming off it to form from top to bottom. There is a deeper cleft kind of over on the left that might be good in freak years, but I have never seen anything form here...

quote: Originally posted by erik: 5.6- GREAT NORTHERN SLAB5.7- ARE THERE ANY?? The hand jamcrack just right of GNS. Also Ultrabrutal at the Country, 1st p Rogers Corner quote: Originally posted by erik: 5.8- LIZARD ROUTE, PRINCLEY AMBITIONS, 1ST HALF OF TOXIC SHOCK The 5.8 on the extreme right hand side of Upper Town Wall - classic! Princely is pretty 9+/10a, not 5.8. Maybe the 2nd pitch, but not the first! quote: Originally posted by erik: 5.10- SAGITARIUS, LIBRA CRACK, DAVIS HOLLAND/LOVIN ARMS, HEART OF COUNTRY, DR SNIFF & THE TUNA BOATERS..... 5.9 - Thin Fingers Approach 5.11 - Thin Fingers (steep!), Model Worker, Iron Horse, Japanese Gardens, that TR off the anchors at the top of GNS

Paul yes Alex

but, but, you can climb 98% of the worlds waterfalls in SMC 12-point strap ons

I find it odd that you would finance a climbing trip buy selling your gear Why not just get a paper route? I hear the pay is good

ok, Muir on Saturday is taking too damn long to load for me now. OK, where were we..? Jon, you were saying...? Alex