Alex

I have a 1993 Bibler I-Tent. No problems whatsoever so far, and its been to Alaska and back. Perhaps it makes a difference if you buy the Bibler pre-BlackDiamondSellOut or post-BlackDiamondSellOut..? Alex

Although the smell of Goode as been known to whip young whippersnappers into a frenzy! Tried to climb NF Big Four on Saturday. On the Brush Scale, a nice solid 3! We bailed, I would be more interested when the thing is buried in snow. Found a few different sets of rap anchors, all in pretty scary condition. Alex

take them for sure. The glacier is short, but could be pretty icy. Mybe I'll see you up there this weekend.. Alex

just an update on this continuing success story, 60m 8.5 Edelweiss dry rope, 75$ arrived in TWO DAYS!! from Spain. Three Cheers! Alex

Pencil, I use both a Reverso and a GiGi. I like using them because they are self-locking, and provide a hands-free belay from above for one or two seconds. The Reverso can be used additionally just like an ATC, for belaying a leader (while a GiGi cannot). I have been climbing with the GiGi for a year now, and have done routes as diverse as Drury Falls and Medow Inspiration Route on Goat Wall with three people, in fast style, using it. I only recently got my Reverso, have only used it once, but it is pretty similar in concept to the GiGi and I like it so far! Highly recommeded! Alex

what I am waiting to see is who on this thread gets the Chestbeater of the Month award. I stayed home, wired some electrical outlets, painted some drywall in the basement, blew a couple of breakers, went on a Home Depot spree, drank 1 beer... Alex

Dru, its like Hotel California, but without the implied good time...

VerticalTurtle, You can solo the first 2 pitches. Easy class 5, a little friable. There is alot of rope drag on pitch 4, thats probably going to require long slings. Its a shorter 5.7 pitch but winds a little first left then up and right. From the ledge at the top of 4, the bolt ladder to the corner of the arete and next belay doesnt have too much drag, and thereafter there are no rope drag issues. A stick clip might be nice if you plan to solo the route. Alex

Copyright © 2001. G. Bruce.

I did the WMA WFR course in Portland a few years ago, it was a great course with good teachers, and a fun group of students. I recommend WMA. A week after I completed the course a VW bug with 7 people in it was broadsided and rolled by an Isuzu Trooper right in front of me, I and an off-duty EMT took care of things until the paramedics arrived. A week later I got to treat a fractured leg on Louise Falls in the Canadian Rockies. You get alot of confidence out of courses like this, every climber should take one and stay current. Alex

I like Silverstar Creek, not as much elevation gain/loss. More bugs though. Alex

Remembering is like a dream. Dreams are surreal in color, things are out of place, but in the dream they are natural, the way things should be, the way they have always been. It was supposed to be just something basic. Kristi had been pestering for me to go for weeks, so I finally hit the books (Beckey, Volume 3) and found something that would be challenging and suitable for both of us, but not too far out there. Kristi was a very good climber. She pulled down hard at 38 and plugged the pro on Davis Holland. I thought I was a stud because I ran laps on Godzilla. (It didnt matter that even after 2 years of trying I couldnt pull the opening move of The Second Pitch.) This was going to be no problem. Like all trips into the mountains, this one started with us hastily packing the Subaru on a lazy Friday afternoon. Getting to the North Cascades was going to be a casual drive, we were going to miss rush hour... [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 08-09-2001).]

Ted, Ushba equipment is pretty high quality. These are not the same TI screws that made appearances at REI and EMS for 3$ a pop several years ago. here are some stats: http://www.ushba.com/catalog/ice.html#ti%20III The real question is, how well do they place compared to a BD or smileys screw, with one hand, on lead? If you think that they are about the same, there is no real reason not to beef up your rack with them. If you think that the BD or Smileys (personally, I hate express screws in most cases) screws place and clean much easier, then they are worth the weight. I personally like the TI screws. Both Ushba and Grivel(?) make good, beefy TI screws that are lighter than the comparable CRO-MOLY screw. But my rack is still mostly steel. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 08-06-2001).]

nevermind [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 08-06-2001).]

I wish I new dutch!

my two favorite topics! http://britneyspears.ac/lasers.htm

right on! that is one of my all time favorite routes! Sunshine on Hood kicks ass... Alex

I have seen other private parties leave their altitude-sick members in a sleeping bag on the way up rainier, while the rest of the team goes to the summit. I don't think its that great of an idea, but whatever floats your boat... Alex

Yes Colin, you can approach the icefall from Maude Jack Col, about 4 hours from the trailhead up Leroy Creek Basin. However, that said, the Entiat Icefall does not look all that interesting (IMO, I went up there a few weeks ago), just a short glacial step really. My understanding is that it has lost alot of its character over the years. Can anyone confirm or deny? Alex

165$ for BD Black Prophets with pick and hammer/adze. Long live Barrabes!

so.... Steve Pool? Henry W[h]opp[l]er? (!!) Jeff Renner? or Meeghan Black?

cmonster, If you can find an old used pair that someone is selling (maybe Second Bounce? [or whatever its called now]), the X-15 BRS or bare carbonfiber offers a pretty happy compromise between durability, weight, and performance. I used them for 10 years now on steeper water ice, and in the alpine. I recently went to BPs for the steeper water ice, but still use the X-15s. Straight shaft makes steep snow pluging easy. The naked carbon or BRS doesnt get as cold as metal. My only complaint is that the adze is not as good as the BP adze. Otherwise, old straight shaft BPs would be my second choice, though the curved shaft is more comfortable on steep ice. They are heavier than X-15s though Alex

AJ, September is a good time of year to hit the Wind River Range in Wyoming. Go into Cirque of the Towers for a few days, it is an easy 8 mile hike in to a spectacular alpine basin where you can do some easy routes and some hard routes, if inspired, or just loaf around if not. I have the guidebook at my house if you want to come over and check it out some... Alex

Carolyn, most of us live at sea level, and most Cascade summits are only around 8000 ft. Though that might sound high compared to MN or the East Coast, altitude does not really become an issue until past about 8500 ft, so don't worry too much about altitude. If you do some of the larger peaks, like Rainier or Adams, sleeping in a high camp the night before a summit attempt will likely help you acclimate enough. Cheers and enjoy your stay, Alex

I guess I would want to further qualify the question as "whats the worst rock you've encountered on a legit climbing route?" I've found the rock quality on Crooked Thumb in the Pickets to be the worst technical rock I have yet to attempt in the Cascades. I *do* find that it completely varies by what you are used to, of course. I've had close friends who climb in Yosemite call Washington Pass climbs choss. Its all relative.. Alex