Alex

quote: Originally posted by westernbackcountryskier: so what you're saying is that there is some snow? has anyone actually been up there recently though to actually know? Um, yes, I was actually there recently, last week. There is a foot or two, enough to ski on, not enough to dig a snow cave. Like I said. [ 11-07-2001: Message edited by: Alex ]

maybe a foot or two. Not enough to dig a snow cave but definitely enough to ski with.

Barrabes kicks ass.

This has to be the best repository of Hood photos I have ever seen! http://www.uac.pdx.edu/photos/ Let me know when you want to go, I'm in for Yocum. Alex

LL Bean Guide Pants, 125$. I got mine.... Alex

Peshastin Saturday, we arrived there first to find it closed but parked in a nearby orchard and proceeded to climb all day. Quite a few other groups joined us in the sun! For those who care, Peshastin is officially closed until March, as of last week sometime... Alex

Phil you dog! A friend talked me out of going up there, "the coverage sounds really thin" and I went to Muir instead on Sunday. While the weather Sunday was stellar, the snow was only good above 9000. The rest of the way down was breakable crust and soft wierd stuff with more breakable. I think it rained up there Fri/Sat, and then froze Sat night... Alex

"My stupid question is this... What are all the differences in the ski gear? What do I need for simple approaches and backcountry skiing?What is the difference if any between cross-country, AT, Touring, Randonee, and Backcountry ski gear?" Juneriver, your question is not a stupid one, here are the answers: Alpine skiing: heels locked down to the ski always when skiing downhill. Skis and equipment tend to be heavier, skis have full metal edges There are several Alpine ski equipment choices for climbers and backcountry skiiers - standard: the stuff you see at ski areas all the time Randonee/AT (Alpine Touring): special bindings that can be "unlocked" to permit travel uphill. The boot is still locked into the binding, but the binding is not locked to the ski in the back. Hardcore AT people will also have special AT boots, not standard downhill ski boots, that make walking much easier Telemark skiing: heels are not locked down to ski downhill. Skis are heavier with full metal edges. There is a wide variety of equipment, depending on your goals Cross Country skiing: heels not locked down to ski downhill, but skis are lighter, narrower, and only sport a half-metal edge, if any edge at all. Not designed for long downhill runs, they are, rather (as the name implies) designed for aerobic travel across the flats If your goal is utilitarian (approach climbs) and you have alpine skiing experience, Randonee/AT gear is where you should look. If your goal is to learn something new because you are intensely bored with alpine skiing, Telemark may be for you, though it is not easy to learn. If your goal is to get a GREAT workout and skip the whole downhill freak scene, Cross Country is what you should check out Alex

Hunter typically comes in closer to Summer, April and early May are more unsettled and unpredictable. Though to get good freezing conditions you should go as early as you are able Alex

Sno-slushy, Stevens, Blewett all have suspicious white powder Bets on when they close Washington Pass? Better get those few last climbs in... Alex

That sounds awesome! Can't wait to go try it...what would it be like in winter? I guess we'll soon find out!! Have any pictures?? Post them when you get them, Alex

No its never touched down to my knowledge. The snowpatch is the start of the rock ramp, which traverses up and right to a small vertical move above a terrible (R/X) landing. After the crux you get a #3 camalot, the only solid pro on the entire pitch, and then lead up lower angled ground to an ice screw belay just left of the main ice flow. Last winter was a very strange one out at Banks, many things formed that had never formed before. "I know the rock's bad, but it can't be as bad as some of the shit in Hyalite." I would try out the regular bypass before you go for the "Salt and Pepper Direct". You might be very surprised at how bad this rock is... Alex

Lambone, you are referring to Salt and Pepper, It didnt touch down last winter, but as Mitch said you can climb the rotten rock on the left hand side. My partner and I did this a week after the FA, the rock was terrible, bring pins, nuts and #3 camalot. Zenith is similar in length and character, further up the road. Alex

The Canadian Rockies are a great place to learn, lots of moderates there to let you get into it without getting in over your head. Even Lillooet has its reliability problems, if you are going to drive that far might as well drive the extra few hours to Yoho/Banff/Jasper. It is a 10-12 hour drive from Seattle. That said, the Cascades and Washington desert offers some very good climbing, a guidebook is in the works to be published hopefully Fall 2002. Stay tuned. If you absolutely must get on some ice, then maybe glacial ice would suffice? The Coe on Hood has some great serac'ing! Alex

Dru, you are right, knifeblade cracks can be A1, but Snow White is really not A1, this is mostly body-weight/ half-driven/ tied off type knifeblades above a terrible landing. TimL, I am not sure, its been about 5 years. the angles and LAs wont be used at all on Snow White. I actually like A4/copperhead/nice, when on TR!! (of course, then its not A4 anymore, is it?) I suppose if you were hard core you could take a hand drill and bat hook it up to a big #3 camalot placement, but its a nice 60 foot groundfall if you blow it. Alex

Snow White is not A1 nailing, it would be pretty sandbaggy to call it A2+ I think, since the tough moves are all knifeblade close to the deck. If you want to try it, it is knifeblades and bugaboos up the seam until the lip. Then it eases off, I think you get an alien. A1 nailing? Isnt that C1? A2+ nailing, a long time ago I would have told you the original start to (Ten Percent?), just right of Saggitarius, because it involved a few tied off LAs, but I've since been reprimanded that its a clean route and goes fine with Lowe Balls. Stern Farmer is C3? I think Golden Arch still has some official nailing on it? There are quite a few spots on the Upper Town wall that you could practice. There is a nice A4 copperhead seam to the immediate left of Danas Arch that you can TR from Danas Arch if you want to learn how to X and paste heads. when I want to go practice, I go into the big talus jumble below lower town wall and smack some pins around, or go Gardening on the Inner Wall or Lower Lump. Alex

wait, so letmegetthisstraight... A surfer, a surfer, a surfer, a snowboarder, a mountain biker, a snowboarder where is the extreme in that? A 25-year old Hot BASE Jumper or Steph Davis. Steph is very pretty, but the BASE jumper has it hands..err...down... Alex

Gene, you're older than dirt, no one would want to climb with you even if you offer to be a Sherpa! I have Mon/Tues off...?

yeah, doing triple backs with no net is probably a little more psycho than leading, like, with a rope and everything. I've found that people that find numbers important are typically people who are very goal oriented, or have never climbed at those numbers and (as has been said) want the reputation/notoriety/fame that goes with "big numbers". There is really nothing *wrong* with that as long as it doesnt hurt anyone else...if you have a big ego, and you need to compete (silently or otherwise) against people to get your motivation to climb, then thats *your* deal. There's nothing wrong with that, until you start putting others down for not being AS COOL AS YOU. To me, thats the line. Bragging is one thing, berating is completely differnt. It always turns me off when I meet people who are ultra-competetive and not secure enough to just enjoy what they do for their own reasons. I don't think anyone here can deny that self-esteem is tied to accomplishment, but I think I've found that the more secure people are in their lives and position, the less "big number" accompishment they need in climbing. For those whose lives ARE climbing, big numbers come simply because these people climb all the time and at a higher standard. Indeed, most of the most supportive climbers I know are that way because they have become secure in their abilities and accomplishments, and dont feel the need for you to be "as good as" them or compete in any way. Nice thread, Alex

I have actually written an online article on this (http://www.mountainwerks.com/alexk/climb/light.htm), here is a synopsis: softgoods: * ultra light sleeping bag in the summer, I use a down Ushba bag that weighs 1.4 pounds. * ulta light goretex. Shoeller sucks like everything else in a real rainstorm. I use an Arcteryx Beta LT jacket these days. * ultra light tent or bivy, if you take shelter. Bibler or...you have a Garuda last I knew..? Hardware: * no stove * Aluminum crampons. DA Bomb! I thought they would break first trip out. I was wrong! * Neutrinos and Helium biners. 36-37g per biner. * ultra light axe, or no axe and only poles with self arrest grips * poles are worth the weight! * light rope. For easy climbing, a strand of 8.5 and a strand of 7 to rap with. For hard/technical climbs, a 9.4 lead line, and the 7 rap strand * platypus/camelback collapsable water bags. Reduces bulk when not filled. * iodine tablets ...and so much more!

Serpentine is a nice intro to longer Dragontail routes, but is junk above mid-height. Backbone is much nicer. The offwidth isnt *that* long, and its at the beginning of the route. 1 or 2 large (#3, #4 camalot) cams can protect it, and then it over with and you have the rest of teh day to enjoy a great route. If you are unfamiliar with Dragontail, or are a slow(er) climber, I would not do Backbone as my first route there unless you are solid in the grade with a solid partner.

I did Sahale (with intent to climb Boston too) on Sunday 9/23 via Qien Sabe Glacier. Depending on your fitness, Sahale is a 10-hour round trip jaunt from the car, so unless you really like carrying overnight gear for a day climb, you wont need to camp. The glacier is straight forward navigation even now, with a steep slope leading to Boston-Sahale col. It wasnt very cold overnight, but you will need crampons in the morning. From Boston Sahale col, Sahale summit is 20 minutes away if you don't belay the final 80 feet to the summit. Boston looked like a shitpile so we didnt even try. Sahale and Boston are described in-depth in Beckey's Green and both Nelson guides. Alex

Mike Stanton, Mike Adamson and I went into Colchuck very late last season last year (November sometime), Colchuck Gl. was very low angle. If you are looking to two-tool it, I would suggest NE Face Eldorado N Face Observation (very short!) Big Four Ice Caves Coleman Glacier seracing stuff like that. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 09-24-2001).]

I got the miniworks a few years ago. I dont use it all that often, but no complaints.

If you look at his profile and check out the web page, it has the same message in English and German. And .as is what postfix for email..? I actually dont this this was a troll (as few people go through that much effort), I think he is a serious - though misguided in what he'll get for free - youth looking to make his mark on the climbing world. Good Luck Nick, Alex