DPS

Assuming you aren't funning the locals, here is something you may want to read. http://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-to-climb-mt-rainier/507227

I have heard all kinds of gimmicks used to cross Alaskan glaciers solo using pickets or other anchors to self belay across crevasses, shower curtain rods strapped to yourself, etc. I gotta think there are no "right answers", but rather the questions are intended to make you think about the probability of protecting yourself against the very real, believe me, possibility of a crevasse fall, and how you intend to get yourself out should you survice such a fall. You could seriously write Captain Kirk's antigravity belt as the answer to both questions and it probably won't make any difference in your application. The rangers probably have no power to deney your solo permit, it will essentially get rubber stamped. IF the rangers were actually in the business of deciding who is capable or not of SAFELY soloing Rainier, they would be opening themselves up to huge liability when one of the APPROVED soloists dies in a crevasses fall.

Well that would be the first completely unambigous, no gray area piece of federal legisation ever enacted.

I love this quote: “In the name of tolerance, we’re (our staggering intolerance is) not being tolerated,” said Bishop Thomas J. Paprocki of the Diocese of Springfield,

Also, be aware that tolls go into effect on the 520 bridge, so traffic is expected to be heavier on I-90. If traffic levels increase substantially on I-90 they will likely toll that bridge as well. Also, there was some talk about converting the reversable lanes on I-90 to light rail, making the I-90 bridge more congested.

Rob, if you can commute via bus or bike, like I did, the commute is not bad. If you have to drive, well, I gotta agree with you there. Driving f'ing sucks. I always made it a point to thank my bus driver, because I sure as heck hated driving. As for why Issaquah? A trail head in my neighborhood takes me to trails up Tiger, Squak, Couger, Taylor, and Rattlesnake Ridge - well over a hundred miles of runnable and hikeable trails. Plus 15 minutes to rock climbing and a half hour to lift serviced and back country skiing, ice climbing, alpine climbing, and rock climbing at Snoqualmie Pass. Two hours to Leavenworth, the Enchantments, the Stuart Range. Of course there are the people, many of whom seem to get off on acting more pretentious and dickish than The Real Housewifes cast, but we have our share of committed outdoor athletes too.

I agree with TTK, to some extent. I live in Issaquah and commuted to Pioneer square for eight years. I took the bus or rode my bike. Commute by bus was about 20 minutes. It would be an easy enough to commute by bus to Harborview, but I am guessing your schedule reguires you to drive. I would hate to drive into Seattle. If that is the case, I would consider renting an apartment/buying a condo in city within walking distance to Harborview and then buying a cabin in Leavenworth or Mazama if you want a place to get away to. A colleague of my wife and her husband did that. Small apt in Capital Hill, house on Orcas Island. (They were avid boaters).

I noticed you are in Sammamish, I am in Issaquuah. If you want to swing by and take a look at my MKI which is for sale you can see for yourself.

Thanks G-d we have KirkW to police these here newbie boards lest someone get some salty talk along with their nickel's worth of free interwebs advice. Although I feel a little dirty knowing that he he follows me from interweb forum to interweb forum. I think that, much like my 10th grade girlfriend, he has an unhealthy obsession with me. It is probably because I look so attractive in Prana.

You got me there Kirk, you must feel very clever for 'outing' me. I am not climbing right now as I am struggling with a serious immunodeficiency. You're just too awesome for me. Make sure when Dane comments, you call him out as an armchair mountaineer, because he's sick too. Asshat.

You are an expert backcountry skier, yet you lack avalanche forecasting/rescue skills? Really? Thank god SOMEBODY said it. They dont have avalanches back east?? Yeah, and KirkW jumped down my throat for it.

Geez Kirk, I apologize for offending your delicate sensibilities. Allow me to rephrase my response so no one's feelings get hurt mmm-kay? Most expert backcountry skiers in this neck of the woods have completed avalanche training and are able to make in the field assessments of slope stability. Furthermore, most experienced backcountry skiiers ski in groups and carry beacons, probes, and shovels and the knowledge to use them in case of a burial. I would not recommend someone not intimately familiar with local areas, weather patterns, and avalanche conditions to go backcountry skiing alone. East coasters in the past have underestimatded the local weather conditions to tragic ends. Is that better Miss Manners?

You are an expert backcountry skier, yet you lack avalanche forecasting/rescue skills? Really? I would not recommend someone not intimately familiar with local areas, weather patterns, and avalanche conditions to go backcountry skiing alone. Seems like the last east coasters who started wagging their dicks around Mt Hood in winter ended up dead.

Same siders are born that way, it is not their fault and they deserve all the same rights as us opposite siders.

The name for the phenomenon is 'Herd Immunity'.

Thanks for the clarification, I misunderstood the intent of your previous post. The fact remains that I paid for a Sno Park permit to use a specific Sno Park that was never plowed all winter. I went on weekends at a Sno Park that access Mount Rainier. Obviously the plower's discretion sucks. BTW, fighting tickets is easy, you just show up to court, request the officer issuing the ticket be at the hearing (officer has to take time out of his schecule to attend, never happens for a parking ticket) and the ticket has to by law be dismissed. The odds are very much in my favor, believe me, but thanks for your well wishing.

It sounds like there is no oversight of the commerical operators paid through Sno-Park pass sales. They have no schedule to adhere to and plow at their discretion meaning that the less they plow, the more free $$ they get. I think if I get back to it, I will not be purchasing Sno Park permits and if I get a ticket in an uplowed lot or near one I will fight it in court.

Last time I tried to use a Sno Park it was unplowed and I got my truck stuck in the lot resulting a $240 towing bill. The previous time it was also unplowed and some dudes with a big trailer for their snomachines complained that we took up too much room in the small area in the driveway that was plowed.

This shit happened to me, that dog would have received the same treatment. Our dogs are given rank (higher than ours) and are brave and awesome Americans. If you think I am going to let an aggressive, loose and potentially rabid dog take a chunk out of my highly trained pooch while on restraint, you have another thing coming.... My wife had to physically restrain me from beating some hipster's ass when he insisted he needed to 'help habituate our dogs' by allowing his unleashed dogs near mine. I'm sure that was the last time he tries something like that. I could see the 'oh shit' look in his eyes as I charged him, dukes up. You don't fuck with my dogs.

Maybe one should premptively report unplowed Sno Parks in the weeks before one plans to utilize said Sno Park to ensure it will be plowed.

Weather typically becomes much more stable after July 4th and continues to stablize through August leading to long stretches of good weather that can persist through September. Depending upon your objective, earlier in this time frame may be better in terms of solid snow bridges and less icy conditions. Even two hot weeks can turn a route from a steep snow climb into an ice climb that requires a second tool and ice screws and belays. I would first decide what your primary objectives are and come back and ask for more specific weather advice for those routes.

Chockstone Falls?

Thanks for the heads up. Twice I have tried to use the Sno-Park at the junction of HWY 410 and Crystal Mt Blvd. Both times it was unplowed.

My preferance is to stay in the shelter, others prefer to tent it. If you are planning on a longer trip and have the weather window, spending the first night at Muir and a second night at Ingraham Flats can aid in acclimatization. Then again, spending a day to move camp will only save you like 90 minutes on summit day and you eat an entire day to shelp all your crap another 1,000 vertical feet. The Beehive is an exposed, small spot and is inconvient unless you are descending the Gib Ledges, not recommended in May due to rockfall late morning.

I regularly climb on a single strand of Edelweiss 8.5 mm Sharp on moderate alpine routes. In my experience a half rope is more durable than skinny single ropes. The sheahes just seem to be thicker and tougher.