DPS

An easy way to save 2.2 pounds is to drink a liter of water on the drive to the TR, drink another liter while you register, pack, and gear up, and carry only a liter of water for the approach, refilling from streams and adding chlorine dioxide disinfectent. You second liter container is an empty bladder which weighs about nil.

Assuming I'm not doing a carry-over, I bring everything minus: -Tarp/Tent -Sleeping pad -Sleeping bag -Stove kit Pretty much everything is worn (harness, crampons, rope, ice axe, helmet) so the summit pack weight is very light. A belay jacket, 2 liters of water, some food, and extra gloves/mittens, glacier glasses, and some odds and ends is pretty much it.

Just beaware, the suspension is very simple (foam pad, unpadded hipbelt) and forces you to pack light.

I'm 5' 9" with a 32" inseamm - I can't imagine in inch would make a big difference.

I should mention the Montbel Balance Light 40 (available at pro mountain sports) might be the best value in a Rainier sized pack. Its volume is more like 45 liters, it weighs 2lb 4 oz and has everything you need (almost) and nothing you don't. It would be nice if it had a crampon holder.

Seconded... white mesh ballcap fleece hat glacier glasses three LED headlamp with 2 AAA lithium batteries Petzl Elios helmet boots Scarpa Summit GTX liner socks - (2 pair) heavy socks- (2 pair) light weight nylon gaitors cheap poly pro liner gloves Primaloft insulated gloves Soft shell pants mid weight long underwear short sleeve poly tee shirt- light colored Marmot Driclime windshirt Montbel Versalite shell hooded Patagonia Micropuff Primaloft belay jacket Petzl Vasak crampons old Grivel Air Tech Racing ice axe simple, unpadded, webbing harness locking carabiner picket pulley prusiks - 5-6mm perlon slings - 2 single, 2 double spectra carabiners - 6 wire gate, 3 light lockers Rando rope - 30 meters, 8 mm high quality down sleeping bag - 20 degrees (Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering both make bags weighing little more than 1 lb Black Diamond Betamid tarp thin Evazotte pad Montbel Blanace Light 40 pack trekking poles pocket rocket stove fuel 1 liter pot pot lifter knife 2", 1/2 serated blade tiny Bic lighter map compass 1 - 1 liter HDPE Nalgene water bottle, doubles as a mug 1 - 1 liter bladder with no hose Disposable plstic bowl - Ziplock plastic spoon food sunblock 2 oz lip balm toilet paper blue bags first aid kit - For blisters and small wounds Sharing the tarp, rope, stove kit with my partner brings my pack weight to 30 -35 lbs

I like carrying a stove because curling up with a nice hot water bottle along with having a hot drink makes those long, cold bivis more bearable.

For emergencies.

3/5 of a Z-Rest pad which folded in thirds forms the back panel of my backpack Bivi sack Extra socks Pocket Rocket, 1 liter pot, tiny lighter, 8 oz fuel cannister

I hope he doesn't have serious cold related injuries, just a good story to tell.

The last thing I ordered from MEC was a fat Evazotte sleeping pad. The shipping cost more than the damn pad.

Shoot, just about the worst weather of the season too.

Sobo, MEC does ship some brands to the US, but not all brands due to some kind of non compete agreeement. (E.g. Black Diamond). At least that used to be the case.

Does anyone have any links or sources to long term snow pack observations or analysis of snowfall from the present into the future? This is a good start:http://www.nwac.us/

I can't think of any road much above 6,500 ft, other than maybe some logging roads perhaps.

Not that I recall. I've always liked you. I'm pretty sure I cornered the market on making an ass out of myself from years 1990 through, well currently.

Good points.

I did Kautz Memorial Day WE 1999, as well as FF and Fuhrer Thumb over different years. If fact, that is the first time I met Sobo - he was doing a recon for Pete Rikke. Pete's wife mildly chided me for wearing shorts and gaitors with no sun block behind my knees and called me 'Dear'. But I digress. I used a single axe and walked straight down when descending Kautz and FF. Having read trip reports and seen photos of late season conditions on the Kautz, I can easily see using two tools, ice screws, and belayed climbing.

Here is a possible itinerary Days 1-2: Climb Adams spending a night at the Lunch Counter Day 3: Chill in Hood River, rehydrate, eat, relax. Day 4: Hike to Camp Muir Day 5: Chill, rehydrate, eat, relax at Paradise.

That is actually quite brilliant. Carry a big mylar balloon, a length of wire, and a small helium cannister. Loft the balloon, connect the wire to the antenna of your cell phone and make the call. Other climbers are likely to see the balloon and will prolly check the crack. That is if you survive the fall.

If a soloist falls in a crevasse and he can't update his Facebook page, will anyone care?

Do radio waves penetrate glacial ice?

Welcome, The Muir option is a good one. The Adams/Hood option lets you see more of the Cascades, more 'ticks' if that is your thing. For optimal acclimatization, you need to have enough time to ascend to altitude 2 -3 times, allowing plenty of rest before attempting Rainier. Dan

I'm sure calling her 'lady' to her face will help your cause. I have to say, I loved the voice over - cut to to her in the living room - back to the action style editing. Very engaging little film. I think I starting breathing again when she placed the gold camn.

Thanks Sobo.