DPS

In case Peter Chapman's and our line on Mixup http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=413393 should end up in Burdick's guidebook, I would like to retroactively name it 'The Angry Wives Club'.

5.10: Die brande mit der drie stripens.

TR forthcoming?

Early winters couloir, North Early Winters Spire North Ridge, Pinnacle Peak West Ridge, North Twin Sister NE Couloir, North Buttress Couloir, Colchuck Peak NE Couloir, Argonaut North Face, Bryant Peak

The route that Peter I climbed back in 2004 was a very mellow way to the summit. No more than 50 degree snow, definitely not an engaging climb in its own right.

Any photos of NE Buttress of J'Berg?

Bang up job! I have been telling everyone who will listen for the past decade that Cascade Pass is the place for late fall/early winter alpinism.

I especially liked the photo of the Middle Teton.

Puffy goes over the shell at belays/rest stops/cold summit days and yes in this climate synthetic is generally perfered over down.

Neat!

Would dropping off the arm earlier and down into Horseshoe Basin rather than taking the high route as an approach make any sense?

How did you approach?

I recall seeing that Couloir from Buckner? and wondering if it had been climbed. Looked like a cool route.

I was trying to be egalitarian, I suppose the moniker grand cours was misapplied. Suggestions on a better name? Selected Winter Climbs in the Cascades seemed a bit used.

This should keep you busy for a while: http://www.summitpost.org/the-cascades-winter-grand-cours/754824

Hey Josh, The date of this TR is from a month and a half ago. I would expect the approach to be much more difficult right now. DPS

I did the East Ridge of Ingalls some years ago in mid October after a snow storm. It was a really fun mixed rock, snow and verglass climb. Very worthwile in its snowy condition IMNSHO. Linky to trip report: http://www.alpenthyme.org/alp/ingalls101004/ingalls101004.htm

Try this guy: Nick Strait (425) 260-8229 Nstrait@hotmail.com I've climbed throughout N.A. for over 15 years with Nick. He is a solid all around climber and good people.

Mt Hood is better climbed early season as rock fall becomes a significant hazard later in the spring and summer. Pick a good weather window May through June. Also, since you have done Rainier already, Hood may seem like more of the same and perhaps less of a challenge. Why not try something a litte different, more alpine? Fisher Chimenys on Shuksan is an interesting route requiring rock climbing, steepish snow/ice/glacier climbing, route finding all on an incredibly beautiful and rugged mountain. The rock climbing is not technical, no more than class 4 if you are good at route finding.

Is it waterproof?

An SPD police office makes, on average, 6 figures. So do the officers in the 7 other west coast cities closest to Seattle in size. They are not in the same income bracket. (Source, KUOW interview last month) I worked for a large regional government. All employees positions and salaries are on the Web. Among the top paid are the judges, PA, a top doctor and beat cops. Not seargents or captains but beat cops. They get a guaranteed %5 per year salary increase and enjoy a tatic called salary padding. The final 5 years (one needs only 20 years to retire) lots of overtime gets thrown your way so that when the pension is calculated (based on final 5 years of employment) you get to retire with a pension based on up to $200,000. Not to mention you just made $1,000,000 over the past five years thanks to the tax payers.

Out of morbid curiosity, did the M6 X and AI 5 X sections coincide? E.g. were the runouts on the hard pitches?

Ignore KirkW. He is the cc.com gadfly, taking pot shots yet never contributing anything useful to any discourse.

The fact that the one fellow chose to ask for a rescue rather than attmept to down climb/rappel first doesn't sit well with me. If you have a rope and a rack you have a potential way down.irony>

How about a gimlet: 2 oz gin or vodka 1 oz Rose's sweetened lime juice 1/2 oz water ice