DPS

I've looked at both Leaveanworth and Mazama. Both would be great locations. Leavenworth more accessible in the winter. I decided that for the cost of a cabin, I could take an awful lot of vacatons all over the world staying in nice hotels.

STOP using steriods now! They damage the skin, making it thinner and more brittle. I have had terrible problems with my skin and steroids, while masking symptoms in the short term, have done terrible damage in the long run. I found Aloe Gator gel 40 SPF to be a soothing, moisturizing sun block.

Reminds me of what my wife told me once: "You would be just as good as Colin Haley if you were young and talented too."

Having enough rope left over to effect a rescue is key. In my case I was carrying the other rope which I dropped in over the padded the lip. The rope with the knots was stuck so badly it had to be cut.

I've done it and had a partner go into a crevasse. It works.

I switched from a pair of noodley Atomic Tour Carve Alpins to BD Havocs and had the same problem. It was like learning how to ski all over again.

advice like "Do not climb up into a storm." is not new news. Its not new news, but bears repeating, if it isn't obvious.

12

It is.

Here is a very informative web page on Mt Shasta: http://www.summitpost.org/mount-shasta/150188. Also, Billy Goats Tavern and the burrito restaurant in Mt Shasta City are both recommended.

No, sorry if I was not clear. We did not bring snow shoes or skis and did not need them. Locals said there was more snow than usual for a Memorial Day Weekend. We did get alpine starts from Bunny Flats and from our high camp at 11k to take advantage of firmer snow conditions, but even descending in the heat of mid day we were not post holing terribly.

I climbed the Casaval Ridge over Memorial Day WE 2009. Locals said there was more snow than usual. We did not bring floatation and did not need it. I did wish I brought my skis for the West Face descent though. That looked like a sweet run.

I agree on all points. I have two belay parkas, a Patagonia Micropuff which is warm enough for everything in the Cascades except for Rainier in the dead of winter. I have a Wild Things Belay parka that I bought for Alaska, which is plenty warm, but I wish I would have gone with down because AK is dry, and down is lighter and more compressible. If you go with down, pop for 800+ fill. Down is an investment that will pay divends for many years if properly cared for.

This article may have some helpful advice: http://www.summitpost.org/alpinism-101-an-introduction/756518

IMNSHO, trying to buy one parka that covers everything you mentioned is a mistake. I would say get a 100 gram Primaloft hooded parka for the PNW, and a quality, baffeled, hooded 800+ fill down parka for the drier and colder mountains.

Free climbing the route without using the bolts is a stronger statement than chopping it. It sets a bar that future climbers can either jump higher to clear or stoop lower to crawl under. Kind of like Messner and Habler's O2-less ascent of Everest.

Icicle Canyon in Leavenworth has a number of domes and formations that you can walk around the backside to drop a top rope on. The basalt columns at Smith Rock and the formation Rope a Dope crack are on might be TRable as well.

My guess would be on the Nisqually Glacier.

I made one out of a wire coat hanger. Have used it for years and it works just fine.

Having repeated some of his runs I can confirm that he is indeed very fast. He beat my time on the Enchantment Lakes loop by a full hour, and that was only 20 miles and few thousand feet elevation gain.

The storm was forecast days ahead and was forecast to be very severe.

Ok buddy, whatever.

Ok, I get the reference to Sasha and Bernese Mountain Dogs. For the record, I like dogs. I have two dogs. I called out the owner for their violation of leash laws and exposure to a dangerous situation which lead to the unfortunate fall and rescue of Sasha. If you can't see the difference, well, you're pretty stupid. As for Peter, if he doesn't like being called a dick, he should stop acting like one.

WTF are you talking about?

I may have written with a measure of hyperbole. They have the Whittaker Bunkhouse and a hamburger stand or something of that nature, in addition to the gear shop. I've only met Big Lou once and liked him, but like you said, Peter not so much.