DPS

I have Silverettas and Dynafits, my wife has Dynafits. Never had a problem with any of them. I am at times heavy, but not a particularly aggressive skier. Kind of like you, double BDs at the resorts, nothing steeper than 45 degrees in the BC. One thing that sticks in my mind is Martin Volken who said Dynafits pretty much got the binder right in the first place and haven't done anything to mess it up.

Chair Peak is aways away but is a classic 4-5 pitch mixed alpine route and should still be in shape in March. Routes on Lane Peak, Denman Peak, and Pyramid Peak in the Tatoosh inside the park have good snow/ice routes. North Face of Mt Hood, still farther away is pretty classic, but like 2,000 ft long.

Dannible is correct. Seasonal labor picking fruit. Certainly not an easy way to make a buck. Another idea - look at Craigslist.org for jobs. I've been offered jobs from CL including tutoring HS science, teaching college microbiology, software dev, tecnical writing, carpentry, etc. Lots of summer camp type jobs on there right now, something that might be up your alley and be a good resume builder.

The wife enjoyed GNS as well. A big thing for her is it weather must be nice; not to cold/windy/hot, and she dislikes climbers queued behind us. She feels 'rushed'. At Squamish we had planned on doing Diedre, but there were parties at every belay and more coming, so we moved over the the empty Bananna peel.

I think one cc.comer works with the rescue crew that responded. Maybe contact him: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1021243/Re_fall_at_exit_38

I think JayB is right on. The best climbing trip my wife and I took together was to Squamish/Whistler. We climbed Bananna Peel, stayed in a nice hotel in Whistler, ate in nice restaurants, and did day hikes around Whistler. Definitely not a big mileage climbing trip, but enjoyable for both of us.

Screaming deal.

Sounds like you are going to be limited to living where you can find a job. Leavenworth would be a cool place to live, but not so many jobs. Do you mind seasonal farm labor? Seattle has more jobs, but is more exensive. Not sure what kind of job you are planning on. Can you write software? Plenty of those jobs.

Sorry to hear about the loss of your friends.

I'd be curious to see statistics on avalanche fatalities of skiers/boarders killed in out of bounds areas accessed by lifts vs true backcountry skiers/boarders killed in avalanches.

It has been dumping pretty much non stop all week. Can't imagine it would be anything but nasty out there.

McHale packs are pretty hard to beat. I have a 75 liter pack from Dan that carries and climbs very well and is incredibly durable. I also like the old Dana Designs Terraplane. Big, heavy, durable, but handles heavy loads almost as well as McHales. You should be able to find them used for pretty reasonably priced.

Girlfriend, this is climbing. This is what I will be doing every weekend until you break up with me.

With the hipster retro 1970s ski jacket and shitty music I expected to see a can of Mountain Dew to show up.

Ditto. I love La Sportivas, but the Scarpas fit my wideish feet better. I have the Scarpa Summits, the precuror to the Mont Blanc. Great all around mounaineering, alpine, and ice climbing boot, but not quite as burly as the La Sportiva Nepal Evo. Maybe the Mont Blanc is a little more boot than the Summit?

Hey, I've done all of these. One was not like the other.

if you flip a coin 9 times and get a heads every time, there's one probability that you are at the long tail of a normal distribution, and the Bayesian statistician would also evaluate the probability that there is something wrong with the coin you are using (in which case the chance of getting another head might be 100%) If you enough to invoke Thomas Bayes, you know enough that a 'fair' coin is assumed.

No, because I understand statistics.

If you flip a coin 9 times and come up with heads everytime, the probability of flipping the coin again and coming up heads is still 50/50.

Well, not really. Statistics apply to samples and are extrapolated to populations. You really can't apply statistics to individuals. As the saying goes, the average person has one testicle, one ovary, and one breast. Interesting, most of my relatives have died of heart disease, strokes, and suicide, among the most popular ways to die.

Thanks for following up on this Tyson.

I climbed with a guy a few times who was way into DH mtn biking and he was always breaking something.

I had a climbing partner who gave up trying to make it as a climbing photographer to shoot auto and motorcycling racing - big sponsors, more money. Anyway, he said motorcycle racing was way more dangerous than climbing.

It would have taught them the value of a wilderness experience.

Not much one can do about that, except maybe vandalize their snow machines while the riders are out skiing.