dbb

That's interesting that your Vector did that to you. While I was walking around Anchorage this summer mine all of a sudden shot up to 17,000 ft. I set it back down (which took for freakin' ever), but I wonder what's up with that. Bug fly into the barometer?

Assuming your talking about the usual south face... I would say that with the super warm conditions that we've been having that the rock would be pretty snow free, except for anything horizontal. Bring maybe one short axe for the long snow runout on the 2nd pitch 4th class bit, and bring your usual rack, for the climbing is much the same (especially if you climb it in boots during the summer). Here's a trip report from a couple years ago. We left all our ice axes/pickets at the base and only brought about 8 pieces!http://students.washington.edu/dbb/toothwinter.html [ 01-13-2002: Message edited by: dbb ]

I'd say go with a 0 deg down bag. The lightest you can find too. As will said, those dryloft-like shells are really only good if you're in a snowcave or a single wall tent (where it snow's all night long!) and they usually add almost a pound of weight. I have a REI 0 down bag that is only 3 pounds! (Nylon) It has replaced my "summer" bag because it's a half pound lighter, and I can carry less clothes that way. For an all around bag, I find that 0 isn't too warm, nor too heavy. Go with down, especially out there in cold, dry MN, and it'll work great.

quote: I didn't think Spokane had a branch of the mountaineers. john Roskelly came from their ranks. Though they mostly seem rank these days. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: dbb ]

check out my weather page for some useful links like: -banks 10 day forecast, past 10 days of avalanche reports, etc.. Weather page

I second for the Metolious FCU #3 (Orange) Those rock, and go in everywhere. A particularly common size in that crumbly cascade rock. I have 3 cams in that size.

weill, check out this page. A friend of mine who did it. I'm pretty sure that wall can go clean with offset nuts, but I've also heard of people trying to use their chock pick on some thin section on p2. http://www.cs.washington.edu/homes/cary/rainbow.html

Those routes are HUGE! They go from the crater to free standing pillars ABOVE THE SUMMIT! ... But Alas, they look like they're rotting in the sun [ 12-07-2001: Message edited by: dbb ]

Beck, what does this mean then? Does it simply follow the induction line like other digital beacons or does it have "digital features" like distance to source, but is mainly meant to be used in gid-search form? I know you can do induction with analogs, but it seems the whole point of digital is to make that process easy. Maybe I should try and rent one and compare it...

So I've been looking into buying a beacon, and I want to hear what experiences people have had with the Ortovox M2 (their digital beacon). Do people think it's worth it to spring for the digital ones over the regular analog OM1s/ F1NDs/etc.. ? I origionally learned of a regular beacon, but have been using a tracker more recently and think it's a bit faster. Also, does anyone know wheather the O-M2 is a dual digital analog beacon? They claim to have an 80m range, which is twice that of the tracker...

They're just covering the "worst case" scenario. I've run up many a teleferique in my G-10s (along with plenty of walking on rocks) and they're still kickin'! My only complaint was that they G-10s came dull-as-shit out of the box. I decided the best time to sharpen them was in a jump seat, with a leatherman, on the way to Liberty Ridge. Ugh, I might as well have been eating bad mexican food--same effect ya know... I would say that dullness is good reason to send em back (aside from them being great crampons). If you can't fully lacerate your skin with them out of the box, when will you be able to?????

couldn't really see much up there Saturday due to clouds/snow, but the one time it opened up the East side of Denny (that big cliff) looked way plastered with snow. Things have been cold at the pass, but not cold enough for substantial waterice to form. Lots of icicles... I bet that the NF & NEB of Chair, and S/E routes on Guye will be in climable shape once this snow firms up. Who knows though, that could be until the christmas inversion!

But doing something hard and big can be done unsupported. Look at the 1984 Polish-American Expd. to everest. They (mostly) climbed a hard new route and put the whole thing on for under 50K. It can be done, but I bet that hiring people to schlep your stuff to the Mtn. and then climbing it by yourselves would be the best option. (and the most likely considering we're not all Tom Brokaw or Quokka enabled)...

I think that the hoards really only apply to top ropeable climbs and climbs under WI4. If this is actually the case then you'd only really want to keep your moderatly hard routes a secret. This is kind of pointless because you're probably on to better and bigger things. as far as conditions go, POST EM! It's not as if Alpental ice is your secret project! my 2c [ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: dbb ]

I might be interested in the bent shaft. Email me dave@alpinedave.com

Along your thread freeclimb, While we were up in the St. Elias this summer, the infamous Paul Claus told us a story on a peak of which we'd made the 2nd ascent. On the first ascent Paul had brought along a parapont to fly off the summit cliffs with. When they got to the top his partners convinced him out of it, and he just went down with them to fly on some glacial hills down low. When he took off down low, he got about 10 ft off the ground before the thing shook, and then totally collapsed. Aparently some knots had been left in the cord from when they had displayed it at some show. This happened 15 years ago and his wife still remembered it. yikes!

quote: Hey Lambone, be more specific about climbing conditions on the Coleman Icefall. Were you on seracs or water ice. It would definitely be worth it if you're itiching to swing your tools, the road is drivable to the TH, and you don't need anything but shoes (and ski poles) to walk in. But like phil said, the ice was really brittle, and the 3-4" of snow that covered things made walking around a bit dicey. You never quite knew if the floor was solid ice or holes. Though once you find a safe area, wipe off the snow, and pick off the buldges, it is quite nice.

Well, there is what happened to MEC you know...

I agree with pms, I use a small 3" sewn loop slid onto the harness into the back for a full strength trail loop. Simply secure it with a rubber band, leaving enough loop to clip into. I haven't noticed that it pushes on my butt any more than the droppable legloops fast-ex buckle...

I've used everything from OR mitts (suck!) to the Vinylove-baby gloves, and I have to agree with freeclimb. They rock. Dextarity is amazing--no futzing around with screws or biners. the warmth is there too, but I find my fingers getting cold at belays or when busting through deep snow. The one thing I don't like about them is their gauntlet length. But not a problem for I sewed my own cordura gauntlet and duct-taped/seamgripped them onto the glove. This has worked great for two reasons: 1) my wrists are never exposed and 2) the rubbery glove part is covered so it doesn't get all snagged up in my leashes while exiting/entering/twisting. I can put up the pattern if anyone is interested... As free climb said, these gloves are a pain to dry out. You can invert them pretty easily if you push the fingers in, or better yet, just buy a couple pairs! Size Large seems to work for me. For colder days, or many pitches I'd bring gloves with removable liners. Bring lots of liners because they're going to get soaked (but lots of Manzella ones) One other viable option may be to buy the vinylove gloves without the fleecy lining. Then you could stick your own removable fleece gloves in and climb all day with a little more warmth. [ 11-14-2001: Message edited by: dbb ]

I know about the ski gear, they also sold out of all their avie beacons too. Not to mention that they don't carry the BD Black prophets anymore either. I wonder if this is because the companies hate them so much that they wont resupply them. Maybe they just bought a ton of inventory and are having a good time of it while they can. At least they will always have those killer deals on Grivel stuff!

sorry, I think he turns 79 this Feb.

5,477 ft (or about 913 fathoms for those of you in jolly old E)

Whoa, who needs pullups for ice training! Simply do reps of 104 spray posts about garbage in under 24 hours and you'll be cruising up WI 7 on your first ice of the season!

When I was looking for silverettas Jim's shop in the U-district had em.