JasonG

Yes it was! It definitely got my attention. And yes, let's test that shoulder out in September!

Trip: Graywolf Ridge to Walkinshaw - Standard Trip Date: 07/16/2023 Trip Report: When it looks like a hot and hazy weekend, I often catch myself looking west to the Olympics. If the Cascades are baking and smokey, the Olympics can often be a good deal cooler and clearer. Such was the case a couple weekends ago when I was casting about for solo trip options for a couple days. After reviewing a too warm (for me) forecast for the North Cascades, I settled on a traverse of Graywolf ridge to Walkinshaw. My brother, @ZakG , signed on last minute, gear considerations and meeting time discussed, and we met early on a Saturday to catch the Edmonds ferry to Kingston. The hike up to Baldy was uneventful, if steep, warm and muggy. We lunched on the lower false summit and headed up to the true summit for mug shots and a gander at the route ahead We had only seen a couple people so far on the trip and we headed off into solitude to the top of Graywolf For whatever reason, the USGS marker on Graywolf looked immaculate and solid gold, despite being placed in 1930??! And then it was off to South Graywolf, and our bivy for the night. Strangely, we couldn't find any flowing water below the large snowfields on the peak, and had to scrounge slushy water from a depression near the base of one. Water is an issue on this ridge! We arrived on the summit of South Graywolf in the late afternoon and settled in for a beautiful evening. Great flat summit for a bivy, but no shelter and no water nearby. The night was clear and relatively calm, with no snaffles. We awoke to another beautiful day, though it promised to be warm. Off we headed to Walkinshaw. We stopped at the col south of South Graywolf to drop our overnight gear. Lo and behold we ran into a soloist, Derek, from Longview, WA. I'm not sure who was more surprised. And so, being neighborly, Derek offered to join forces with us to keep rockfall under control. We had a great time getting to know each other, while conferring over the best way upwards. It was a bit steeper than any of us were expecting but never really severe. There was maybe one small section of 4th class low down on the face, but mostly it was reasonable, if exposed, Cl. 3 ground. The rock was solid, for the Olympics, but a helmet was definitely warranted. Within an hour or so, we found ourselves on top. Anybody know who these "Truckers" are who placed this register Cool peak history in there... And great views into the Needles After almost an hour on top we carefully retraced our steps down the peak and back to our gear. We bid Derek adieu as he headed up South Graywolf, and we hammered the knees down to the Royal Basin trail. No brush on the descent from the South Graywolf-Walkinshaw col (if you are on the right path), but plenty of hard dirt and cemented scree- we were glad to be down that slope and onto the unexpectedly pleasant trail. I had forgotten how nice it is! And then, the usual- chips, beer, change of clothes at the car, followed by battling the masses back to the busy Puget lowlands. 2 hour ferry wait! But a pleasant weekend all around.... Gear Notes: Boots, poles, helmet, maybe ice axe and crampons early season Approach Notes: Baldy trail up and Royal Basin trail out

Damn!!! Such a cool mountain and climb. Glad you made it up and down safe! I have never climbed in the Alps, but would like to. I had written the Matterhorn off the list.....and it might stay that way. But so many others!

Yep, too high on the East ledges descent, but sounds like you knew that. Pretty accurate assessment of the the East Ridge as well- pretty awesome mountain to have that route as its least "classic". Definitely my favorite peak in the North Cascades! By favorite I mean the mountain I've climbed the most times by the greatest number of routes. That is how I figure it at least, it is like picking your favorite child. I have one more unique ramble on that peak left to try I think, but I have no doubt that I will climb it as long as I can afterwards.

Nice work guys!!

RAW and Lightroom is the ticket! Maybe I should just go back to a crop sensor and mirrorless when my full frame dSLR dies......

Wow, those are impressive photos for moving so fast with limited gear! Just goes to show that location, and light are often the most important things. What are you shooting with these days?

Sheesh! That is a lot of ground to cover with good camera gear! Are those mostly your photos or Wyatt's?

Indeed, what an adventure! Thanks for linking it here....

And, I should add, that is an impressive trip solo @JonParker!!

Right, those! I did try and use them for a bit but got lazy. Thanks for the reminder.

And way to demystify this and slay the dragon in good style. You guys made it seem casual! You may as well go for a cool down lap on Terror's Stoddard buttress.

So great! I'm glad that the accumulated pain saved someone from repeating the near death that others have experienced when they didn't go LEFT. I can still taste and smell the fear from our brush with massive rockfall when we went right. I do remember thinking that the real route was pretty fine on our descent. Glad to hear that that is true. That snow/'schrund is no joke though....

I haven't been on the ridge nearly as much as you, but yeah, maybe the craziest thing that has been done in the range in a loooooooooong time. Glad you made it out safe, that's a lot of choss by yourself!!

Even with a top rope, I would need that 10- variation! Hoping to get @dberdinka to guide me up it some day!

Damn. Glad you both survived the chop, sounds like it easily could have taken both of you and the party below. And THANK YOU for the PSA, a great notice to the greater climbing community and one of the perfect examples of why this site is still relevant (even though I am biased). Also, some most excellent recent beta on the approach. Again, thanks!

Is that the same thing that is in tire dust that kills salmon?

I think Lopez is sus

All great things! I know that @olyclimber really would like to get the TR search page back up and functional. I love all of your ideas for tweaks and hopefully @olyclimber will be in touch with you to chat about your offer of help. Much appreciated!!

Trip: CA/OR road trippin'- Whitney, Russell, and Thielsen - East Buttress- Whitney, East Ridge- Russell, Standard scramble on Thielsen Trip Date: 06/28/2023 Trip Report: Since @Trent and @cfire were going to be gallivanting around Europe in July, we had to move our annual climbing trip up to June (John joined as well early on, but @cfire had to drop out unfortunately). Normally, June isn't the month to be climbing in the Cascades and so we picked the High Sierra many months ago, not realizing that they were going to accumulate the biggest snowpack in many decades. This would complicate things somewhat (more on that later), but the weather was solid, and so south we went.....and went. It is a long drive to Whitney Portal from the Skagit! We broke it up over two days, communing with the mosquitos in OR the first night, camping at Whitney Portal to start acclimating the second night (decent sites that are first come, first served at the TH, $20. camp closest to the river to avoid be woken by late arrivals). The next day found us sorting gear and hefting our loads to begin the slog to Upper Boy Scout Lake. Our plan was to hike up to UBSL the first night, resting in the afternoon of our arrival. Day 2 would be the scramble of the East Ridge of Russell (an excellent Cl. 3 route per Peter Croft, and I had no business jumping on Fishhook Arete so convinced Steve and John to set their sights lower) to further our acclimation efforts. Day 3 would be the East Buttress of Whitney, followed by a descent of the Mountaineer's Route, packing up camp and heading to the car. And that's what we did. I would like to spin some yarn about the pain of the approach, tricky routefinding, vicious wildlife, etc. but it pretty much went off without a hitch. We had a bit of avy debris/carnage to contend with low down on the climber's trail and a lot of snow up high, but it was pretty much a standard Cascadian approach, with a little bit of altitude thrown in. I think it took us about 3.5 hours or so to UBSL. And there we lounged for the rest of the day. The next day was clear (I think they are always clear in the Sierra) and we set off on a leisurely ramble up the East Ridge of Russell. It was extra leisurely since we had to stop and pant every few hundred feet. 14k was still 14k, but the grand views, good rock, excellent company, and zero crowds made for a pleasant day. Highly recommended! Then it was back to camp to ready for the main event. The East Buttress of Whitney! It definitely lived up to the hype, perhaps one of the finest alpine rock routes I've climbed. Eight engaging pitches, almost no loose rock, and no crowds (just one other guided party of 3). Plus an interesting descent in the Mountaineer's route (at least when snow and ice covered). Again, highly recomended! I'd also recommend two fine partners like @Trent and John who led two blocks to get us past the difficulties. I just sat back, took pictures, belayed, and enjoyed the view. Super fun! And just like that, in 3 days we were out of the Whitney area looking for a day trip on our way back to WA (we spent another night at the Whitney Portal TH campground). Lone Pine Peak (very close by) looked to be too big of a day for us after Whitney, Tuolumne was blocked by snow (Tioga pass closed) and so....what to do? I threw out Mount Thielsen in OR. We saw its impossibly steep choss horn and there was something poetic about the contrast between High Sierra granite and OR volcanics. Thielsen it would be. And so we drove up to Diamond Lake and gave a pint of blood. And wondered how Thielsen hadn't fallen over yet. But truly Thielsen turned out to much more enjoyable than expected (ignoring the mosquitos, bring DEET). Good trail and solid rock on the final 80' bit to the summit (exposed legit 4th class, you may want a rope to rap it but we scrambled up and down without mishap). Perfect weather too, and the summit to ourselves! What's not to like? And then, 11 hours after standing on the summit of Thielsen, we were home. Gear Notes: SuperTopo High Sierra Guide and Croft's The Good, the Great, and the Awesome has it all specified. We used a single rack to 3, crampons, ice axe, and helmet on Whitney. Crampons, axe and helmet on Russell, Helmet on Thielsen. Approach Notes: Git in yer car and drive!

This is a collection of high quality suggestions, thanks @brandnew! Do you know anyone in tech that could help @olyclimber out with coding for this page? He is having trouble getting someone competent for the gig that won't charge crazy amounts.

I liked this story detail. Indeed!

I still haven't been up Easy Ridge, thanks for the TR and reminder that I need to fix that!

Sheesh. I think @Kyle M needs some kids to reduce his focus.