JasonG

Super cool looking trip! Thanks for the idea....

This is pure gold and applicable to so many climbs! Well done guys, glad to see the smoldering bromance finally flamed! And, this was really well-written! It would be fun to have @lunger's take here for posterity alongside yours.

sexy!

I had the route you took wrong. It was all that and then some! Such a beautiful area....looks like a great day!

We have a winner!

My legs hurt just thinking about all that distance and elevation gain! Well done!

This photo is crazy!

Ah the A1! And you aren't messing around with those lenses either. One of these days I hope to upgrade into that level of hardware, but I suspect it will take the death of a close relative.

Such a great route, thanks for the TR! As you are know well, some excellent images too... looks like you brought 2.8 glass? What's your setup?

I would tend to agree, though we did see some tracks in the snow from a few days prior on our trip. Glad you had a good trip!

The mega slab!!! So rad @JonParker, that's a crazy amount of ground to cover in a couple days! Glad that you linked it all safely and posted up this TR for us to marvel at. Some really great images in there.... I don't think I ever would have thought to run up a creek directly (SC) on a mountain trip. Oh, and there is an old trail coming down Shovel Creek from the lake, but it is hard to find at the top. It becomes better the further down you go, but it strays pretty far from the creek.

This part really got my attention. We climbed it unroped with our axes in low dagger, wearing crampons. Blue collar good times! Thanks for the backstory on the various routes in your books @pms!

FA BATTLE CAGE!

I think it can depend on the bear. I've had some excellent bear..... but you're not alone, so maybe I got lucky?

Trip: The Triad - East Ridge to Main Summit Trip Date: 08/06/2022 Trip Report: All the hardman FA glory on the site is pretty amazing this summer, but what is the blue collar climber to aspire to, you might ask? Well, the Triad of course! Nothing worse than low fifth (or old skool 4th) and an energetic approach separate mere mortals from the club of North Cascadian summits. It didn't take much to convince @Trent and @Kit to join me on an 11 hour ramble in the alpine a few weeks ago (even though Steve had already climbed it), following this excellent topo drawn by @Stefan: We started the morning watching a bear....get shot....in the meadows above the trail. I have to say that it was a bit surprising to hear a shot ring out and watch it tumble down the slope toward us! A first for me. But the MBSNF is the "land of many uses" and who am I to judge? I like meat as much as the next chossdawg. Just maybe wear orange after 8/1, eh. Regardless, we made good time to the pass above the trail and began the sound of music ridge run towards the Triad. Not much to report on the traverse to the peak that isn't included in the excellent topo. My thumb was still pretty buggered so @Trent was on the hook to lead the technical bits, which he dispatched without trouble. Difficulties were short-lived (1 pitch) and soon we rambled our way to the highest of the three dicks (read Green Fred for the full story). The day was perfect, without a soul around, so nice on an August Saturday in the increasingly busy North Cascades. And it remained quiet (no other parties) until we were back on the trail, close to the car. There are still lonesome weekend day trips out there! Gear Notes: Crampons, helmet, axe, light 60m rope, very small rack if you want to belay 4th class bits. Approach Notes: Sibley Creek Trail. Watch out for bear hunters!

I use the TX4s and they have a bit wider toebox. Pretty nice approach shoe: https://www.sportiva.com/tx4.html

Sounds like a tale, hopefully somebody chimes in! There really aren't that many ascents over the years of that buttress. I would think someone on here would know the owner of that head.

In this particular case, maaaaaaaaaaybe?

I am too busy with work and home projects, but who knows.....would be fun to actually meet people!

Inquiring minds want to know @Sam Boyce and @Kposaune....did you find the grape soda can @pms may have "forgotten" on the mountain? Legend has it that @Juan Sharp will pay handsomely for it. You covered ground that hasn't been searched yet!

This is what I love about the mountains, well put! And I love having the chance to be able to meet everyday heros like @seano- and @Eric Gilbertson, @pms @rat and @lunger and a bunch of others when roaming the hills. Super inspiring!

Oh man.....that sounds and looks like a terrifying adventure. To willingly go up into that insanity is a display of impressive choss jedi skillz!

This whole global 24/7 satellite internet thing is going to get way out of hand. Say goodbye to stargazing as we know it within a couple decades. And great trip report of a classic!

Absolutely. I made it so! Seriously, what an impressive effort and great story. And you actually seemed to be having fun!

I don't have anything to add other than that is amazing history, thanks @pms! And you too @Juan Sharp, though I've heard your stories already. And, of course @JonParker, for living to tell the tale!