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Everything posted by JasonG
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Chelan is a top-notch rescue unit, and now a member of the MRA! @gyselinck and others did a great job this past fall getting Chelan Mountain Rescue through the WMRA rock accreditation. Bottom line, when things go bad over in Chelan County, you can be confident that these folks have your back. But please, this isn't Europe. We're all volunteer and it really is better if we're never called.
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Usually it takes some melt/freeze to get ice on these routes, often not coming into good shape until later in April. Given the March we are having I would expect powder, spindrift and rock.
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[TR] South Spectacle Butte - SW Ridge 02/25/2023
JasonG replied to Eric Gilbertson's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Wow! These winter bulger trips always sound like death marches to me, but you seem to still enjoy them! -
Granite Gl. icefall:
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It is easy to judge from our keyboards.... However, having avalanched my partners out of a couloir in Canada a few years ago (both OK with bruises and broken gear), I definitely am more prone to giving folks the benefit of the doubt when accidents like this occur. The danger was "moderate" at the time of the slide..... It is not a safe hobby we practice, and we make decisions with incomplete information, on the fly. If we think, as the living, that we are the safe and smart ones, we are probably deluding ourselves. The full write up that NWAC produces on this accident will be good for all of us to read and learn from. Condolences to the many friends and family affected by this.
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best of cc.com Random Climbing Partner(s) Stories
JasonG replied to wfinley's topic in Climber's Board
Yes!!!! An absolute classic, I need to re-read this thread. Thanks @olyclimber!- 98 replies
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So, I think I may only have one other legend, reported to me by @sepultura. He climbed Arches peak in 2009 and reported that Roger had signed into the register some years prior, saying something to the effect of : "North Face. No route description, no rope, no problem. Roger Jung". He didn't give it a grade and I'm sure never reported it, but it is most certainly a FA . . .
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The same fall Roger went missing, I ran into his father, Jim Jung, on a late season scramble of Corteo (I was solo, he was with a partner). We talked of his son's exploits and I could tell there was a lot of worry and pain in the strain of his disappearance. I still remember Jim's parting words to me..... "Please keep an eye out for my son". I still do, maybe more so now that I am a father to two boys of my own.
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This register is one of my favorites:
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Great idea for a thread!! I will take some time in coming weeks to piece together a bit of the story I know.....
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first ascent [TR] North Hozomeen Mtn - Zorro Face, IV 5.9 8/31/2013
JasonG replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
Pure TR gold. Start to finish. -
It was so great to see the love in action with the crew coming north! And wow, I still can't believe I saw @rat in person!!! He enthusiastically encouraged us all to go climb one of his clip-ups this summer. Who's in for the Zorro face??!!
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We had some culture up in the Skag tonight, thanks to @rat, @olyclimber, @bellows, @OlympicMtnBoy, @cfireand @manninjo !
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Everyone we meet, is jammin' in the street! Still.
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Yes! I'm still in the middle of a fiesta bender!
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Wooooohoooooo! And, If you don't show, this is for you! (Happy Valentine's Day!)
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I'm doing my best to harass folks!
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Oops, right, no upstairs @manninjo! I had District on my mind but they close earlier than Temperate on Wednesdays. Go to Temperate Habits and I will have a table! I'll call and let them know to plan for 10ish.
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I'll grab a big table upstairs!
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I'll be there with your photo @bellows!