JasonG

An impressive outing! Thanks for sharing what was I'm sure a powerful experience.

Trip: Mt. Shuksan - Circumnavigation Date: 5/26/2012 Trip Report: I am continually amazed at what a great part of the world we live in. There aren't many places where you can ski/climb/boat/hike to amazingly scenic locales and sleep in your bed at night. Well, there aren't that many places where you can do that, AND have a range of careers to choose from. The PNW is great, and I have a hard time faulting those that move here and never look back. This is something I was reminded of a couple weeks ago as a group of 9 (!) tackled a one day ski around Mt. Shuksan. We left the White Salmon gate around 0630 and skinned to the edge of the ski area before dropping down along the clear cut to the valley bottom. Some brush made things interesting, but it was in relatively good shape. Once on the valley bottom, easy skinning brought us to steepening slopes below the White Salmon Gl where we skittered around on avi debris looking for easier skinning. It was a little early and a firm crust made things tricky as the angle steepened. We ended up just strapping the boards on the packs and following Scott and he made a direct line for Winnie's Slide. We paused at the top of the slide to re-group and east some lunch, and a portion of the group opted to hang back a bit and ski up along the Hanging Gl. rather than go all the way around. I was feeling tired enough that this was an attractive option, but I dragged myself up behind the other five that were making their way to the summit pyramid. When we arrived around 11 (?), the pyramid had been in the full sun for some time and was beginning to fall apart. There was still more rime than rock showing and, given that there was a large supply of ammunition for the mountain to throw down on us still, we laid to rest our summit ambitions and kept ambling around the mountain. The traverse around is incredibly scenic, and pretty mellow, so we were caught a bit off guard when Kit set off a slab that propagated surprisingly far and ran down and across a crevasse. We were thinking wet, loose snow slides were likely, so this was something we weren't really paying close attention to. A good lesson, as nobody was caught. We topped out at the pass between the Crystal and the Hanging and transitioned for the long ride down. And, what a ride! Cruising across the Hanging, with Mt. Baker straight ahead, Shuksan to our left, and the precipitous drop to the White Salmon on our right, was a fantastic way to enjoy the fruits of our labor on a sunny spring day. The snow was quite good until we got midway down the White Salmon where it turned to deep mush with the attendant wet slides. A quick ski down the valley and we were faced with the slog to get back up to the ski area. I have to admit that this seemed to go on much longer than I remembered- I must be getting old. We ran into some brush here as well, but what Cascades ski would be complete without a little mud and devil's club? I think we arrived back at the cars about 11 hours after we started (don't laugh Dan!), and enjoyed a round of beers and various salty snacks in the sun. Good times! Gear Notes: Crampons (ski and boot), axe, and whippet useful.

There is another heartbreaking story in that 1973 MRC bulletin - a three year old boy who wandered off near Lake Wenatchee and was never found, despite a massive search over five days. Nearly the same age as my two sons....

Very cool! I've wanted to climb a route from Centre Creek and this looks like a good one. Recommended?

Thanks Phil! Makes more sense for early September I guess, though the weather did seem wet and cold enough for significant snow (if the source I found wasn't in error).

Thanks Luke! I was admiring your night shots, you hauled some nice gear up that high. And yes, the left variation is much, much easier- though climbing up through the storm and descending would have been character building as well. The UW 4km forecast is often pretty accurate, and helps in avoiding such unpleasantness: http://www.atmos.washington.edu/mm5rt/rt/gfsinit.d2.html The 1 hr precip and column integrated water loops are the most helpful to me.

Deadman the tent corners to stuff sacks, tent pegs, plastic bags, anything. Losing a tent can be a big deal, and not because of the monetary value of the gear inside.

On 9/7/1973 Arlington WA reported 1.06 inches of rain with a high temperature of 50. No rain on either side for several days, though temperatures were cool....

It sounded like the weather turned for the worse during the latter part of the search. I'm guessing there was significant new snow at the elevation of the glacier, quite possible in early September, especially in the 1970's.

Nice work! We just missed you as we were coming around the circumnavigation. I think you talked to a portion of our party that elected to hang back. We heard that boom too, it was loud, loud, loud! I will try and post up a TR in the next couple of days....

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/pacificnw/2018223873_pacificpclimber27.html A well written article, and a poignant reminder about the familial cost of climbing fatalities. With two boys about the same age as Wally's sons were when he disappeared, the piece was a good reminder to always stack the odds in my favor. A photo from Mr. Scurlock as well!

I liked this part: Still, he mused, there was an odd irony to the situation – albeit one that was probably lost on his critics. "I've never had children; I made it specifically impossible to have children – and I'm being hassled by children," he said. "Maybe it serves me right." It is funny what the young 'uns get worked up over. The older I get the more I realize that "nothing matters" (to quote Paul Theroux), most especially school exams.

You will have to move fast to bag all the peaks that Lowell listed on his 1985 traverse. That is quite the 7 day tick list! Having spent a couple weeks on two separate trips in this area, I'm very impressed- I still have a few of those peaks left!

Thanks for the history Lowell. I saw the original summer line on the rib, but didn't know if it had been ascended in spring conditions. I should have known!

Had this face even ever been climbed before? Strong work!

Gunsight is a bit out of the way for the typical Ptarmigan, as is Sinister. Formidable and Spider are somewhat dangerously loose but offer spectacular views. LeConte, Sentinel, Old Guard, Spire Point, and German Helmet are all pleasant and pretty easy. Dome is probably the best of the main peaks along the traverse and well worth a visit. If you can leave a whole day for Dome, it is an amazing spot to sit and soak in the views for hours. Enjoy the trip, it is probably the best (most enjoyable) of the long Cascades traverses I've done. Of course, that was back when you could drive on the Suiattle Rd.

I think this is what you are looking for.

As a warm up, the NR of Whatcom may be a good way to approach after taking the boat and hiking to Whatcom pass. That's the way we approached Fury and it is a fun way into the range. It is a bit longer than the Access Creek approach. But you can tick Challenger on the way also.

Sweet looking climbing, thanks for the TR! I need to get to the Sierras....

Thanks for the conditions update! You probably didn't get a look at moraine lake? Wondering if the forbidden tour would still be in OK shape....

Thanks Lowell, I will have to go and take a look!

Excellent! That is a fun early season ramble, and one of the quickest ways to the top of a peak in that area. Glad the weather worked out for you Sean......keep your fingers crossed for Sunday!

Wow, that is quite a scrapbook! Can you look at it if you go to the Mountaineers?

Thanks for the extra detail Lowell! I seem to remember my dad and grandparents relating that Dwight was not fond of guidebooks. It makes sense, considering how he loved the thrill of discovery and exploration. Maybe somebody can ask Fred his recollections of why the guidebook wasn't written, but I suspect Dwight wanted others to discover the Cascades for themselves, as he had done.

This past Saturday, the Roman wall and upper Coleman were quite firm/icy still at 1300 and it was a very warm day. I think if you aimed to summit at noon that would be about right. Jordan's times from TH to summit are in the right range for your pace.