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Everything posted by JasonG
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[TR] North Side of Yak Peak - Humbled Beginnings 02/14/2024
JasonG replied to AlexC192's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Glad you guys made it out safe @AlexC192! Sounded like quite an adventure, and very close to disaster. A tip from an old guy- when in doubt, it is usually best to go with the walk off (you were right to not bring skis up a route at the edge of your ability). Too many accidents happen on the descent when people are tired, mistakes compound, and darkness confuses things. And having just "skied" down from Yak yesterday to the highway, you def. didn't want to do that after a long day and in the dark! Lots of cliffs, brush, tight trees and mostly walking downhill after a few hundred feet of survival skiing at the top. The snow conditions on the south side of Yak are even worse that what found on the North side (we came up that way to climber's left of your line). Good luck on your alpine apprenticeship! And, if you don't already back up/extend your rap setup, please do. Lots of good tips at the parent site to that link too.... -
Best gps for mountaineering (hood, rainier, adams etc.)
JasonG replied to zhave's topic in Climber's Board
I have been using my phone and Gaia for 6 years or so and that does the trick. Way better than any GPS I've ever used, and I am already carrying it! People also really like CalTopo app. -
So great!! What a run you have been on of late. I was looking up at the hills Saturday, wishing I was up on the crest. Good on you for making it happen!
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Early March Conditions in the Enchantments, Route Suggestions
JasonG replied to mammothclimbs's topic in Climber's Board
All of those Enchantments routes come in their best shape with repeated melt/freeze. Otherwise it is mostly just scratching around on cold snow and dry rock.....so it will all depend on the temps. Early March is typically pretty cold up high, even on a year like this so I wouldn't think that you'll find much in great climbing shape. That said, all will generally be climbable with the right weather and avy conditions. The good news is that if climbing conditions aren't great, ski conditions usually are a lot better, so maybe look at what is in store right before your trip and plan accordingly. And, if you are casting about all over the Western US, that is another story. I am sure you can probably find something, somewhere to climb. But I only really know our backyard.... -
I can loan you mine @geosean!
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Woohoooo! Warrior with @olyclimber!
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And you still can @Steve McGee: https://www.chesslerbooks.com/item/10797-mountain-review-magazine-back-issues-4-8-1993-1994.asp I just ordered a couple, thanks for bumping this!
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I am 180% behind this renewal of the cc.com battle cage!
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This is amazing! What cool stuff are you working up now @dan_e? And, for the record, @Bronco is very reasonable when it comes to licensing rates.
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Indeed. It was vibrating pretty noticeably as I carefully kicked my way down. Hard to see in the photo, but it was both quite thin and quite narrow. She was tough!
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You are correct, thanks!
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Great to see! I'll have to organize another one on the north end soon. Looks like few turns to be had going into next week.
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I climbed the Pride Gl. on Kyes wither her and @Phil K many moons ago! I didn't realize she was on here.... And wow, didn't realize it has been 16 years since she passed.
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I have been checked for a permit by NPS Ranger Kevork at Ouzel lake. He came in from Canada, on foot, just like me. I have told border patrol that I have gone in and out via foot and they just shrug. I am sure you can find an uptight one that may give you a hard time, but I have yet to have it happen in doing it several times this way. Before the road washed out, I would go into north end of Ross lake once or twice a year via the same way (not officially crossing border). Nobody seems to care on either side of border when I relay where I have been or where I am going. And so I go with honesty, which my mom said is always the best policy.
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Ohhh....need to find the other!
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Thanks @Bronco! Commented tonight.... Also good to see Kurt fighting the good fight still.
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I guess maybe 2024 will have some pow pow? Today was a reminder that maybe skiing is still pretty fun, no matter what the season has been thus far.... A discerning eye will pick out @dberdinka and @Matt_Alford!
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It is worth getting excited about this winter, it would seem! Can't wait for the gong show this weekend.
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Indeed. Will the season be saved? I guess we should know more by the end of next week.