JasonG

Trip: CA/OR road trippin'- Whitney, Russell, and Thielsen - East Buttress- Whitney, East Ridge- Russell, Standard scramble on Thielsen Trip Date: 06/28/2023 Trip Report: Since @Trent and @cfire were going to be gallivanting around Europe in July, we had to move our annual climbing trip up to June (John joined as well early on, but @cfire had to drop out unfortunately). Normally, June isn't the month to be climbing in the Cascades and so we picked the High Sierra many months ago, not realizing that they were going to accumulate the biggest snowpack in many decades. This would complicate things somewhat (more on that later), but the weather was solid, and so south we went.....and went. It is a long drive to Whitney Portal from the Skagit! We broke it up over two days, communing with the mosquitos in OR the first night, camping at Whitney Portal to start acclimating the second night (decent sites that are first come, first served at the TH, $20. camp closest to the river to avoid be woken by late arrivals). The next day found us sorting gear and hefting our loads to begin the slog to Upper Boy Scout Lake. Our plan was to hike up to UBSL the first night, resting in the afternoon of our arrival. Day 2 would be the scramble of the East Ridge of Russell (an excellent Cl. 3 route per Peter Croft, and I had no business jumping on Fishhook Arete so convinced Steve and John to set their sights lower) to further our acclimation efforts. Day 3 would be the East Buttress of Whitney, followed by a descent of the Mountaineer's Route, packing up camp and heading to the car. And that's what we did. I would like to spin some yarn about the pain of the approach, tricky routefinding, vicious wildlife, etc. but it pretty much went off without a hitch. We had a bit of avy debris/carnage to contend with low down on the climber's trail and a lot of snow up high, but it was pretty much a standard Cascadian approach, with a little bit of altitude thrown in. I think it took us about 3.5 hours or so to UBSL. And there we lounged for the rest of the day. The next day was clear (I think they are always clear in the Sierra) and we set off on a leisurely ramble up the East Ridge of Russell. It was extra leisurely since we had to stop and pant every few hundred feet. 14k was still 14k, but the grand views, good rock, excellent company, and zero crowds made for a pleasant day. Highly recommended! Then it was back to camp to ready for the main event. The East Buttress of Whitney! It definitely lived up to the hype, perhaps one of the finest alpine rock routes I've climbed. Eight engaging pitches, almost no loose rock, and no crowds (just one other guided party of 3). Plus an interesting descent in the Mountaineer's route (at least when snow and ice covered). Again, highly recomended! I'd also recommend two fine partners like @Trent and John who led two blocks to get us past the difficulties. I just sat back, took pictures, belayed, and enjoyed the view. Super fun! And just like that, in 3 days we were out of the Whitney area looking for a day trip on our way back to WA (we spent another night at the Whitney Portal TH campground). Lone Pine Peak (very close by) looked to be too big of a day for us after Whitney, Tuolumne was blocked by snow (Tioga pass closed) and so....what to do? I threw out Mount Thielsen in OR. We saw its impossibly steep choss horn and there was something poetic about the contrast between High Sierra granite and OR volcanics. Thielsen it would be. And so we drove up to Diamond Lake and gave a pint of blood. And wondered how Thielsen hadn't fallen over yet. But truly Thielsen turned out to much more enjoyable than expected (ignoring the mosquitos, bring DEET). Good trail and solid rock on the final 80' bit to the summit (exposed legit 4th class, you may want a rope to rap it but we scrambled up and down without mishap). Perfect weather too, and the summit to ourselves! What's not to like? And then, 11 hours after standing on the summit of Thielsen, we were home. Gear Notes: SuperTopo High Sierra Guide and Croft's The Good, the Great, and the Awesome has it all specified. We used a single rack to 3, crampons, ice axe, and helmet on Whitney. Crampons, axe and helmet on Russell, Helmet on Thielsen. Approach Notes: Git in yer car and drive!

This is a collection of high quality suggestions, thanks @brandnew! Do you know anyone in tech that could help @olyclimber out with coding for this page? He is having trouble getting someone competent for the gig that won't charge crazy amounts.

I liked this story detail. Indeed!

I still haven't been up Easy Ridge, thanks for the TR and reminder that I need to fix that!

Sheesh. I think @Kyle M needs some kids to reduce his focus.

Yes, true. Thanks for the reminder. It ain't all cute kittens and puppies.

Mountain Forecast is garbage, at least in my experience. NWS point forecasts are pretty good usually, esp. if you read the forecast discussion to get a sense for how solid they are feeling. I pair NWS with UW WRF-GFS 4km grid. Typically "1 hour precip loop for western WA" and the "column-integrated cloud water". Those two products are pretty nice to show you the evolution through the day and when to expect clouds and precip. https://a.atmos.washington.edu/wrfrt/data/timeindep/gfsinit.d3.6hr.html Of course, they are all all wrong to some degree, and you will win some weekends.....and lose others. But it is a lot better now than it was 25 years ago!

I thought it much better than expected! And I think pro was available when needed, or maybe my mind is going? Basically I thought that if NE Buttress of J'Berg is in a select guide, this should be. I thought it much better climbing, and you can't beat the position or the attitude it exudes as you drive by on Hwy 2. Don't look away!

Well done AAI and @Jason_Martin!

Anybody know any details about this accident? Incredibly sad. Condolences to his friends and family, especially his wife and kids. https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/obituaries/mountaineer-who-died-in-north-cascades-remembered-as-devoted-father-christian/

Yeah guys, well done!! The Index Traverse is about as wild a first date as there is! Glad I could play matchmaker for this and I am not the least surprised that you guys dispatched the trip in fine blue collar fashion. Love that bivy between the Middle Index summits!

so casual.

Ah, thanks @Trent, I should have guessed about the grandfathering that the Navy enjoys. And, to be clear, I love seeing those planes ripping around. It is amazing to watch. Drones, not so much. Thanks @rat, all good points.

Wow, @cfire, that looks a lot more fun.

All you tech wizards, PLEASE HELP OUT THE SITE BY CONTACTING @olyclimber!!!

Just please answer the question @sulinelanie.

Ha! Well, glad it worked out for you. And glad that somebody else is lugging a big camera around in there!

Indeed, a truly great shot, esp. at 70mm!

Think again. They have 4WD and built in crampons! I have seen them scamper across slopes in seconds that would take us ages with all of our fancy gear. GREAT report and images, thanks! Looks like you brought a fancy dSLR and some lenses up there?

That looks lovely! Never have camped there....

Well done salvaging the trip! Not easy to maintain upwards momentum on Rainier after something like that foray.

I didn't know this, but I guess I should have. In light of the Navy ripping around a few hundred feet off the deck (they commonly violate the 500' AGL rule) in Wilderness this prohibition seems a bit misplaced, but I guess the law is the law. Still, I can't help but admire the guts and skill it takes to climb a major peak in the wilderness and fly to safety. Totally incredible and has kicked open the doors of my mind as to what is possible in the North Cascades. But I am definitely in favor of the drone ban in wilderness areas, and I will hunt you down if you are flying one near me. 😄

Mid September you'll need to stay on the rock to avoid blue ice on the ice traverse, or so I've heard. I hear it goes fine though. You could have a bit of fresh snow here and there depending on the year, or it could be warm and dry. But this route is climbable across a wide season.

Black is a good one! Right on the edge of the park. Corteo is a fun scramble if you don't mind soloing exposed 4th class. McGregor out of Stehekin is a good scramble. Silverstar also, though not technically in the park.

Such a great route! One of my favorites for sure.....I need to go back. Thank you for the great TR and images! For folks reading this TR in the future though, it is pretty much high summer in the Cascades right now, about a month ahead of normal. So I wouldn't really consider it in early season conditions, more like normal early-mid July conditions. Though maybe that is changing!