JasonG

And if you do want to go with a guide, hire Chris (or Kurt Hicks). You won't be disappointed.

OK, so he is scralping the gnar in the Olympics or Vancouver Island? Or maybe surfing in Hawaii?

It is very straightforward with minimal crevasse hazard. The only thing that might give relatively inexperienced climbers pause is the summit ridge, but that is often pretty beat in by August. You can always protect it with picket running belays, up and down. That said, I haven't roped up on Eldorado in many years, and have felt comfortable every time. I think most folks that have done some climbing and are familiar with crevasse rescue could do it without a guide (you really should rope up though). You'll want to be fit, it's a grunt! And it is worth the effort to camp at the base of the East Ridge, one of my favorite campsites in the state (complete with toilet). Not a bad view:

I really miss the insane reports he used to regularly post around these parts. I hope he is alive and well! This page goes dark after 2013: http://www.summitpost.org/dan-helmstadter-ski-resume/434097

What does it matter if it is generally safe below 9K, when the summit is over 11k? If you're going to the summit in the winter you are going into avalanche terrain and you'd be well served to have some knowledge of risk assessment. True, sometimes the upper mountain is mostly bulletproof, but you often won't know that until you walk up there and check things out.

C'mon Pete, I only asked for gas money to the Bugs last summer. And, I'll have you know, I sent the West Ridge of Pigeon exactly as planned! This is the new face of climbing!

Josh- the internet is also a good resource for advice from jackasses such as myself. Have a good trip.

Diepj gave you the polite response, but I think you may need something a bit more blunt. Seeking advice from the internet for a winter climb several days out isn't a great plan. The forecasts are quite prone to change this far out, and may change right before your eyes on the mountain. It is the winter, after all. And, if you didn't already know that....

First time in winter, or first time? If it is the latter, I'd suggest waiting until spring or early summer. And yes, NWAC is the place for up to date info. BUT, avalanche forecasts are typically for much lower elevations than the summit of Hood. You really need to have a basic understanding of what to look for in the field and not blindly follow a report. I'd suggest getting Tremper's book and taking an Avi Level I course. As Water said, El Nino means nothing as far as risk assessment on a particular trip. It is all snowpack structure and weather.

Simple solution Jake- buy used gear or make your own if you are really that hard up and don't want to "subsidize" others' climbs. And quit whining. The gear companies certainly don't care.

I've heard that there will be a climber's memorial for Doug, if anyone has the details please post them. Nice remembrance of Doug in the ST

True, it isn't like you went heli-skiing. A better "A" word would be adventurous, very adventurous. I bet the beer tasted good.

Not nearly as awesome as yours. thanks for that!

Good, on north aspects. Not amazing, but good, settled powder. I suspect that the inversion did a number on it the past couple days though. FL was supposed to hit 2700m! We missed you!! Skiing better in AK now?

I thought we just liberated resources?

Kim Jong-Un is an even better ladies man [img:left]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L4F9R2pcMq0/VogMWPIRmUI/AAAAAAAAE70/7J7KdAOFPHA/w530-h327-p/Kim2.jpg[/img]

Yeah, last time we were in there there were large sections of rotten ice (water at the surface) which made the ski across a bit more exciting than I would have liked. A few days ago, we cut holes with our ice axes- the ice varied from 2-4 inches thick within a few hundred yards of shore. From Panorama ridge, it looked much thinner near the Burton Hut and Sphinx Bay, though the whole lake was frozen.

I heard second hand that there were "40-50 mph" winds on Granite near the time of the avalanche, which would easily build windslabs pretty quickly.

....and former Board member of REI, etc., etc. But for any of you that knew or crossed paths with Doug, he was first and foremost the most energetic member of just about any outing. His enthusiasm was contagious and will be sorely missed.

We've lost quite the man. RIP Doug My condolences to your many friends and family.

Answer: Sort of, at least as of yesterday. You'll want to be lighter than me though. Too much cracking for my comfort level. Of course, the ice is likely thicker today. I don't know how fast it gains thickness . . . .

Wondering if anyone has first hand info....Thanks!

Excellent point Dru, I guess I hadn't bothered to look how close in elevation the two peaks are. This photo, taken from the summit of ABP, speaks to it:

Excellent, thanks for the report!

Thanks for the kind words guys, glad you liked the photos! I think this was one of the more unexpectedly spectacular trips I've been on. Pretty wild back in there, and lonesome.