JasonG

South Couloir on S. Early is all melted out. The easy side of Vesper is not slabby. I don't think you have much in the way of glide avalanches to be worried about. But this is internet advice so......

I think the one in telluride looks cooler.

Agreed. It gets tiresome. Of course, they've covered their bases: "Closed near junction with Icicle Road until snow melts and road dries out". Dries out? Do they close the road when it rains in the summer? In other words, when the permit season opens.

The Slot could be good for your purposes if there is enough snow. I'm not familiar with what it is like up there now. You could also go climb Vesper or Sperry. The boot to Headlee pass is pretty steep as is the finish to Sperry. Those are sure to be in pretty good shape. Also, the descent route on Chair might still have enough snow to be entertaining, depending on if the cornice is still there or not.

That looks like the real deal right there. Stout!

I'll second that Josh, you're an inspiring example of how to persevere in the face of pain and setbacks. You are already an Alpinist, certainly in attitude. That is the kind of mental strength and determination that fuels the strongest in the climbing community. I hope to run into you again in the hills, take care!

You can save maps for offline use AlpineK?

Worth the wait, thanks Lucas! I loved the bit about the fight, but you were wise to stay out of it. Lena lake is a haven for derelicts, and they were just speaking each others love language.

Thanks! I appreciate that you guys are working on it. TRs are vital, as you know.

Oh, that makes it all seem so much more reasonable. I had forgotten about that switch, thanks!

They're not completely similar, but the routes on 3 O'clock Rock, Green Giant Buttress, and Exfo Dome in Darrington (Clear Creek) should be in good shape about now. Condorphomine Addiction in Leavenworth Prime Rib on Goat Wall in Mazama

Expect several feet of snow above 4500'

No open crevasses perhaps. They're most certainly there, and conditions will be changing week to week throughout the spring. e.g.: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1148277/Re_Mt_Hood#Post1148277

I'm as big a Luddite as anyone, but I have to say that a smartphone app like Avenza or Gaia is the way to go. My S5 is waterproof so I just keep it in my pocket or pack in airplane mode and I can easily get a week out of it (including playing music at night). I tend to only turn it on when the weather is bad, however. Just got back from the Rockies on a big ski traverse and it worked like magic. Of course, your device can always crap out (or you can drop it), but I'm willing to take that chance. Plus, you always have Halen or Ozzy at the ready. This is key.

My personal favorite of the early TRs from Marc: Two White Boys on a Big White Hill Some of the spray is hilarious given what has transpired in the intervening years. Especially that SummitchaserCJB. In case you were wondering, here's CJB's list for 2016 : Since lists are fun, i'll do a top 5 of real, serious objectives from now until 2016. 1. Dragontail Triple C 2. Mt Stuart Sherpa Route solo. 3. Mt Colchuck 4. Prussic in winter. 5. Ski a technical line off a peak 6. Do a link up of three peaks (bivy allowed) 7. Do Stuart Glacier Couloir I'll leave it at that. The list may contract or expand. I'll keep you updated with videos and hopefully lots of photos. Bye for now.

Wait, he just started climbing in 2008??!! Marc's first TR on this site: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=790223 Just a wee bit of progress since then.

Great, thanks Jon!

Youth!

Wow. Seth, those are some incredible adventures on your Flickr page! Have you written up any of those anywhere? I would love to read some more, though the images are incredible. Taking an FX camera and lenses into those locations is no small feat.

Most years, by mid-July it will be snow free with the possible exception of the exit gully (this isn't a problem as you can work around the snow patches). A lot depends on the spring weather, but I would say you could plan on it being in fairly good shape. Have fun, it is a real classic.

Here is the photo from the mthorman's TR:

Can you fill us in on what is going on with the TR problems people are having? I'm sure you're working on a fix, just curious. Thanks for the thankless work you guys do behind the scenes, much appreciated!

Typically when you descend off the east side of Forbidden you use what is called the "East Ledges". Five 25-30m raps off the summit straight fall line, then scramble along nearly level until you can climb back up to the notch that starts the Direct East Ridge route. Warning: You must be comfortable traveling across loose, exposed, 3rd and 4th class terrain without much in the way of protection (best to do unroped). A slip here would most likely be fatal. For folks used to such things, the East Ledges aren't terrible, but they demand respect. This is why most descend the West Ridge.

No, I think the site is having issues.

The chimneys will be very snowy, wet, and generally unpleasant for climbing in April (unless it is cold). This is a route typically done once they melt out, usually sometime in June or July. If you do decide to go in April, bring pickets. But maybe you are looking to ski the chimneys?