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Tyson.g

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Everything posted by Tyson.g

  1. Of a Bob Harn or Mike Caryl, who would have been actively climbing in Washington around 1986/7? Anyone?
  2. Great shots as usual Mr. You lead a blessed life you ol' Dawg!
  3. Yeah, no disrespect intended Ian and again the book is great. I appreciate the effort you have invested. I was just curious about things like the large crack slab and I never fought with a tree on route. You certainly did hit the things like the downclimb and whatnot. Being who I am I could very well be misinterpreting the Topo.
  4. That third shot is superb!
  5. It's a cool book, at least in the e-version. I look forward to the hard copy because I feel there is no substitute for stoke fodder like a hard copy guide. I am curious as to the North Ridge, Cutthroat topo accuracy compared to what I climbed two weeks ago. It very well could be that we chose to stay on the ridge crest as much as possible but I found the topo to describe only a few of the main landmarks and some of the best climbing was not mentioned. It is only one of many topos and like I said I could have been off the traditional line. All in all I think the book is great and am enjoying it already. The photos are really good as well.
  6. Me too, man I wish I'd been there ....wait, actually I was Too true Curt you were indeed there and it would not have been half the trip if it wasn't for the company of good partners!
  7. Trip: Cutthroat Peak - North Ridge Date: 8/18/2012 Trip Report: Inspired by the TR by Leland, I had an overwhelming desire to chase Puppies and Rainbows of my own in the basin below Cutthroat Peak that he so eloquently described. Equally enticing to me was the thought of multiple pitches of solid 5 easy rock. ... I cannot add to Lelands route description as his panache with pros is far superior to mine and the beta he gave was impeccable. Well, maybe I would add two small items: 1) The amount of time on the PCT was probably less than a mile as it only took my sorry lardness a scant 15 minutes to the turn off. 2)I believe Leland and partner scrambled the descent from the false summit on thier way to the final pitch to the true summit so we followed suit. (please correct me if I was mistaken) I would call it the mental crux for me as there were one or two moves of some pretty exposed climbing with very little room for error. In particular one move that steps down onto a semi loose block and then a traverse to a easy but exposed slab. (I may have actually at this point, but I am bit of an old sissy) I would agree that the hardest moves were about 5.6 but you can definitely choose moves to make it a little harder. The approach took about 2.5 hours The ascent took us about 3 hours The descent took 2 hours The deproach about 2 hours All told we were 11 hours round trip including breaks,summit time and creek beers on the way down. Anyway, I cannot recommend this outing enough! Solid, Fun, Easy and the appproach is sweet like a sweet sweety thing. Enjoy some pictures: [ Gear Notes: Small rack of Metolius TCU's,a few nuts, a couple of fist size pieces handy for the offwidth crack. 8 mountain runners 60 meter double ropes (worked well for a team of three) Approach Notes: Rainy Pass TH. 15 minutes to first real creek. Into open woods and meadows on the North side and just follow the path of bliss.
  8. Gene the way my two year old has been acting this week I would love to! But alas if I can just pull this crux it will be easy sailing.
  9. Gene is a great partner, and as a friend of his, I second his plea to not "let him solo the route". You should reconsider trhee fingers though given the access issue.
  10. stunning photos, very nice TR.
  11. Then you win. Nice TR Keenwash.
  12. Looks great. A nice read as well. Thanks.
  13. That looks great! Thanks for sharing that.
  14. and what is the guarantee that your partner for this trip will not be impregnated by you? Kidding, good luck in your search.
  15. Nice one B! I am a little jealous
  16. Amazing photos as always thanks again...until the last one when I puked a bit. Always a pleasure to read/see your TR's.
  17. Wow, no problem buddy. Apologize for the drift but we all know your not a noob nor was it implied. Cheers and have fun out there. Tyson geBauer
  18. Rad - I think that is a great list of points that should be made in the assesment/decision process. Those ideals are paramount in responsible bolting whether it be with the advantage of a power tool or doing it the hard way by hand. Indeed the placing of any fixed gear should not be done without serious consideration. Very nice and great food for thought.
  19. Thanks folks.
  20. Looking to get a pair of them new fangled fancy mountaineering boots for three season use. I am sure there is a thread somewhere discussing the merits of said boots and wha favors what but alas I am lazy and do not want to go looking around so I pose the question: What are your preffered boots for three season alpine climbing that are compatible with semi auto crampons? Ice climbing will be minimal so I am looking for an all around performer. TIA, Tyson
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