Tyson.g

Hell yeah! Seeing this weekends forecast has made me wish I had given her a shot, sick or not, while I had the chance. Oh well, maybe I will go back up there someday.

Wow, you guys walked on that snow? Rainman counted something like 52 ice/snowfall events from that pig in 24 hours. There is a hole the size of a semi in the upper 2/3 portion that was definitely not there when he went in on Friday and was when I got there on Saturday around noon. As I walked around on Sunday I threw a few rocks across and onto the upper edge of that field and caused a snow/ice fall event that was flipping huge. The break was 12/15' in depth and about 35' long where the semi truck sized piece came off from a mere bocci ball sized rock hitting it. A much better approach alternative is to skirt that field on the left (there is a rib) and follow solid ground all the way to the left edge of the toe, step across the creek make the one 5.3/5.4 move up and then scramble to the new anchor chains at the start. I will add a photo later showing the current conditions of that snowfield. YIKES!

Nope, I was and am still sick as a dog. I just rapped and jugged to do photos.

Trip: Waterfall Basin - Squire Creek - Roofer Madness Date: 10/6/2012 Trip Report: Three days of a brutal head cold did not prevent me from hauling gear and rope 5 miles to photograph my buddies as they worked the route "Roofer Madness" on the always impressive Martha's Place Boulder. I Shot pics while Rainman,RF, and Ben Murphy took turns on Roofer Madness. An impressive route on the down valley side of the enormous boulder. Flickr Set

Ah, it was I that met you on the trail that day on your way out. Nice photos. There will be more, was just out there this weekend.

Your anus? :kisss:

You dumb Canadian, I guess you could read it like that if you really, really wanted to.

Yeah and aside from the 30m aid part on the fourth pitch the route was climbed free? So technically it was not climbed free. It seems as though just pain old first ascents don't quite seem to be "cool" enough anymore?

dberdinka nailed it as it is cetainly Perdition. Page 280 in the green CAG. So would that be the NE rib on the left side in the photo?

"I didn't know Squamish wasn't PNW." It's not it is SW BC......get off our coat tails beyotch.

Nice job, that is a great route.

That's why folks here are steering you elswhere. You may be fortunate and meet a few on here to help you out minus the nefarious alternative motives but you are probably better off meeting folks at the gym, crag or generally in person where you can get a sense of them and feel out the situation/sincerity of thier interests before being a long way from the car or in a sticky situation. I think the comments thus far are looking toward your safety and best interests. That being said I have met some good folks on here and made some longterm friends with solid climbers, but I am an old guy and not a 28yo 5'5" female, so my partner requests may elicit a different response than one you may post. Good luck and be safe........

I agree. These are the creepy interwebs after all.

Curt - Yep,similar to Green Giant on the approach. A little longer though at 5+/- miles to Marthas Place Boulder. Indeed if one follows the standard route it only gets up to 5.9+, good for guys like me. Although if you are able to lead the 5.11-/5.10+ range then the third pitch variation we did is highly recommended.If your follower is weak like me they can easily french free the crux. The position is incredible. I can see the potential for more moderate multipitch routes(ranging from one to six pitches) in the basin all within a reasonable walk from the Boulder. I know of at least one more route that should be ready next season. Heading out again this weekend. I have the bug!

Nice! Super Trundle!

I think the approach, among other things would keep that from happening.

I do believe the variation is new. And I couldn't agree more that 1.) I do have the bug and 2.) It is one of the best places in the pnw.

Trip: Squire Creek Valley - Waterfall Buttress Date: 9/22/2012 Trip Report: On the weekend of 9/23 I had the pleasure of climbing in the Squire Creek Valley with Rainman and my buddy RF. RF and I left the TH on Saturday in low clouds and cool temps at the amazingly sloth like hour of noon.We did not lolligag and were able to reach Marthas place in a quick for us 2 hours and 15 minutes. Rainman had been in the valley since the day prior and was just returning from a hike when we arrived at camp. A quick beer and salutations were had and we all took a top rope turn on the route "Drilling Martha". This was my first time on this route and found it to be quite fun with a challenging start which I believe to be the crux. One can easily solo up the back of the boulder to reach a nice anchor set up on top for the TR.One can also lead the route. The weather was not the best although a nice break and lifting of the clouds was had around 7:00pm. The break was short lived and more beer and whiskey were consumed with optimism but little real expectations for the next days weather to improve. The next morning dawned grey and with more of the same low clouds. A leisurely breakfast and coffee around camp and then a decision to at least take a walk up to the Waterfall Buttress Route and see what happened. Around 15 minutes later we were at the base of the "approach pitch" which is an easy scramble with the exception of a single 5.4ish move where there is a bad landing in the creek if you miss it. The higher we climbed the better the weather got. It was just perfect temps and loads of fun. We stopped at the top of the fifth pitch. We were about five hours in climbing the route and rapping took about another hour or so. This route is really great. For one the setting is amazing with waterfalls all around and literally right next to you the whole time. The quality of the rock is perfect. The routes position and the line are asthetic and enjoyable. We did a variation on the third pitch that was out of this world. I was not able to free the crux moves on the lower part of the pitch and had to pull on two pieces but I am itching to go back and free that section. I was able to make the majority of this pitch and I can hardly describe how great the rock quality and position are. All I can say is WOW! I highly recommend this route it is worth every second of the approach. Thanks to Rainman and RF for an awesome adventure with great company! The route breaks down like this for the pitches: Pitch 1 5.9 Pitch 2 5.9 Pitch 3 5.9+ (variation 5.10+/5.11-) Pitch 4 5.4/5 Pitch 5 5.9 Pitch 6 5.7 Pitch One Pitch One Looking Down First Pitch RF Following Pitch 2 Rainman on the 3rd Pitch Variation Me Following the 3rd pitch What an amazing place! If you want to see more photos of the route and Drilling Martha: Flickr Set Approach: As per Roan Wall but go to the massive boulder (Marthas Place). From Marthas uphill to the left side of the buttress toe. Rack: Full Rack, 15 runners/draws, 2-60m ropes

You are on!

Intersting. Please post updates on your progress and where a copy can be eventually picked up. If you are looking for any additional resources for information PM me and I maybe able help out.

Wow, great pics Curt looks like a grand autumn romp in the alpine. Very nice.

Sweet!