Lodestone

What is this Yocum Ridge business? Nastia, is that you? Are you trying to replace your Specres? I saw a new pair of size 8 go on eBay recently for $40! That was right before your car got broken in to. I've been looking for a couple years now for a replacement pair in size 10. My old ones have been resoles over six time but now my toe is about to pop through the leather. If you want a replacement pair you can do what my g.f. did, call every (former) Acopa vendor listed on their website. She found some in 9.5 and 10.5 so finding a smaller (slightly more obscure size) might be easier. Good luck. Chad

A lot of people will balk at the price but I really like my Arc'terx C80 chalk bag. Nice and big, cinches closed well, and stays wide open when I want it. Has a little zippered compartment too (that's where people like to stow their weed I'm guessing). Chad

It's nice to have a local option though I prefer and have been using Ramuta's Resole for the last dozen or so pair of rock shoes in need. Chad

What type of Anasazi's? Most come with Onyxx from the factory (LV's, hightops and Blancos come with C4). Chad

After having roughly half a dozen pairs of shoes with XS Edge rubber I've noticed that it seems to be less durable (i.e. wears out faster) and without a doubt a little less sticky than Stealth C4. The result? I have all my La Sportivas resoled with C4 rubber once the original rubber is toast. For what it's worth, Onyxx rubber is slightly harder than C4 (and less sticky in my experience). That's a trade that many people are happy to make. Chad

I seem to recall that dogs aren't welcome at Carver Bridge Cliff. Or maybe that's kids I'm thinking of... Chad

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1009650/Re_Grigri_2#Post1009650 Chad

Anyone have a chance to strap on a pair of the Five Ten Eclipse hightops? Impressions? My feet don't normally like the anasazi lasted shoes but these have me intrigued. [img:left]http://www.campsaver.com/media/catalog/product/e/c/eclipse-angle_2.jpg[/img] http://www.campsaver.com/eclipse-climbing-shoes-men-s Chad

Joseph I've always wondered why the hanger+webbing+ring combination was chosen for the rap anchors(?). Why not use Metolius Rap hangers? More inconspicuous and no maintenance. Anyway, thanks for all the hard work. Chad

Looks like it might be a static rope in which case 110m is possible. Chad

Spoke with Mr. Rosenbaum briefly on Saturday. He let us know (very nicely I might add) that he’s wanting climbers to park somewhere other than the Stone Cliff In parking lot on Friday and Saturday evenings after 5pm. This includes the gravel back lot. That is unless you plan on having dinner at the restaurant. Chad

Take 'em to Broughton Bluff. The place dries out at the drop of a hat and it's a comfortable area for groups (a little more so than Ozone). But if you like rocks, cams and nuts dropped on you from fumbling newbies then Ozone is the place to be. Chad

What route? Chad

Why not buy a couple cams? Yes, nutcraft is important but having a couple cams would greatly simplify things. A friend (B.C.) showed me the light with his use of hexes on Smith tuff (specifically New Testament). Still, I don't find them to be very useful on basalt (Portlander). I'm rambling. Anyway, you can do well with what you've got but a #.75 to #2 C4 will go long way. Then again, if Shoes of A Fisherman and I Almost Died can be freed on nuts and hexes then it stands that just about anything else can. Rabbit Stew fits your request just about perfectly. I think it takes passive pro better than neighboring Lycopodophyda. Fun climb too. Chad p.s. Pass on the link cams.

What to city/town are you in? Chad

Looks like a slog to get up there. Then again so is Trout Creek. Never made the hike but have craned my neck countless times as I drive by. Any fixed anchors? Chad

Nastia suggested several good spots to drytool at Rocky Butte. Trivial Wall, the area between Trivial Wall and Silver Bullet Bluff, and the area to the right of Centurion. Additionally, there's a new swath of rock exposed just to the right of the Poodle Pinnacle that might make for a good drytooling area. Super easy access. Someone might want to throw some anchors in up there though. It bums me out to see the drytooling scars on some of the nicer older climbs out there. Vertical Therapy, Crack Warrior, Espresso among many others. Chad

Ontheedge, what I would like to see more of are cracks. Cracks that are fairly continuous. Not a finger crack that turns into a flared off-width then to a hand-crack. For practice (which is what a gym is all about, right?) there should several hand-cracks, each at a different (but constant) angle. Then a fist crack, finger crack, off-witdth, and a chimney. Lastly, I'd like to see a roof crack. This is something I've not seen in a gym. It would probably be a draw but would probably need to be in a bouldering area. The only 'frivolous' thing I'd like to have at a climbing gym is a sauna. Chad

Adam, that's funny you mention Red Dihedral. That's been on my need-to-clean list for two years. I guess I'm not the only one that thinks it's a worthwhile project. Chad

It does looks like the gate and nose were not in contact in any meaningful way before the carabiner broke. Look at all that blue anodizing on the nose. No apparent gouges. Chad

Mad Rock Super-Tech-Keylock, a.k.a. Mad Rock Don't-Use-Me-For-A-Slackline http://www.madrockclimbing.com/products/product.asp?_item=100093

On Sunday it was t-shirt weather at Smith Rock. Chad

A lot of good points made already. I might add that most of the ultralight/ultrathin harnesses have pretty shitty gear loops. Not having gear loops that I like would be a dealbreaker for me with a new harness. Chad

Probably not the best guide to have if that's all you've got. It is a fun read though. Portland Rock Climbs 4th edition by Olson is the go to book for Portland area rock. Watts's Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park is the bible for that place. Others have mentioned the best books for the rest of Oregon. Chad