Lodestone

I wouldn't buy the Dragon cams for a few reason: They don't have a thumb loop (my biggest gripe). They don't cover the range I want so I'd still have to buy C4's at the small and big end of the spectrum. The small ones are expensive. Chad

Without a doubt you need a Unimog 417: Chad

That's funny. I'd read that and assumed it was true. Tricked again! Chad

I came across this B&W photo a buddy took of me back around '95. Lets see some old pictures of you guys (and gals) climbing. I expect to see some great beards and haircuts. Chad, likely playing hooky, at the railroad crag. Chad

Mark J. and I are going to the gym in the afternoon. I'd be up for going outside, particularly in the morning. Wadya have in mind? Chad

What's happening that a name needs to be decided on? Some sort of deadline. Chad

Yes, they have been for a while. Tim is including a chapter on Ozone in the 4th edition of Portland Rock Climbs. Supposed to be coming out this winter sometime. Chad

If you're talking about rock climbing, I doubt there's going to be a dry day out there again this season. But if we get a nice weekend, I'll go out there with you. Chad

I'll be there. Chad

Trip:Coethedral Date: 10/17/2010 Trip Report: Josh G and I went out to Coethedral for the day with the hopes of adding a direct variation for the first pitch of Bewitched. We started by going up P1 of the standard version of Bewitched. I threw some SS quick-links and rap rings on this intermediate anchor. I hope that’s OK with you Bill(?). We were then able to TR Bewitched Direct. There was a bit more loose rock in the direct section than I had remembered. It got a pretty thorough shakedown and should be fairly solid now. Maybe still PG 13 rated. There’s a bit of a shelter that the belayer can duck into to dodge any errant rocks. Anyway, the direct route follows the Bewitched spine with the crux being a jug covered bulge 15’ below the anchor; instead of heading right after the seventh bolt, keep going, clipping four more bolts before hitting the P1 anchor. Couple knuckleheads. Me after leading Bewitched Direct. Most of P1. Another climber tried it out today too. Next we checked out Coecoenut Bridge. Very fun and unique route. Josh about to come through the hole in the rock on Coecoenut Bridge. Lastly we got on the Lava Flow (no pictures). We were running out of time so I tried to make this a half-pitch climb. I ended up running off to the left and used the first pitch anchor to Trench Warfare. There ended up being a fare amount of rope drag because of this. Not a very good way to do this route. Chad

Sweet, thanks for writing that up Bill. Chad

PM sent Shanan. Chad

Agreed, the first pitch of Reckless Driver is an overgrown mess. I brought a saw out there last month with the intention of working on it but didn't get to it before the sun went down. Chad

So do you think the R rating on Risky Business is warranted? Never tried the second pitch. I love the first pitch though, one of the hidden/forgotten gems at Broughton. Anyway, thanks for cleaning up P2. Chad

Bill I'll be of of work at 11am sharp. Let's get out. Jimmies, Farside, Beacon, Coethedral.....you pick. I even have my gear in the truck, ready to go. Chad

I'm up for it! I might get spanked pretty bad out there. I'll have to double check with my girlfriend to make sure I'm not forgetting any prior engagements and get back with confirmation this evening. Chad

For what it's worth, I'll be there at five today (Silver Bullet Bluff). Partners welcome. Chad

Wow, I gotta get out there. City of Rocks that is. How hard on the skin is this rock? Chad

Anyone want to join me for some climbing after work today at Rocky Butte, around 5pm? Send me a PM. If nothing else, I'll be up at the top on the retaining wall....but I'd much rather have company and climb routes! Chad

Anyone want to climb this weekend at one of the Portland crags? Sat, Sun, or Mon works for me. The weather forecast is looking good. Broughton Bluff, Carver, Ozone, trad, sport, leading, following, I'm game. Chad

Thanks for the info Bill. I'm looking forward to the new edition. Not going out tonight but I'll be out at BB after work if you'd like to meet up....Gandalf's Grip is calling....(FWIW it'd be a three-some ). Chad

I've also wondered about what temperatures outside of the approved range would do to the medicine. I have mine in my cragging pack and am hoping for the best. In cold weather one would probably want to keep it close to the skin. Chad

Anyone heard an ETA for a 4th edition? Chad

That's unfortunate that someone got hit by rock but not surprising at all. I have had several close calls from people knocking rocks down. Two weekends ago a guy sent a shoe sized rock down that landed eight feet from me. Later in the day I had another, smaller, rock graze my back. I think I'm on my last life. Chad

Wow, Pinhead seems like it would be a very dicey gear climb. Chad