Lodestone

If you're ever in Portland, the Sickle at Broughton Bluff is a nice, albeit extremely short off-width. You can walk to the top of it for an easy top rope. Chad

EDIT: Cam found by fellow climber and returned to me today. Thanks! I think that I left a cam sitting on the ground at Ozone today (Feb. 28). If someone picked it up, please let me know. The cam was a light blue Rock Empire like the one below. The carabiner attached to a was a new Mammut straight gate. I think that I left it at the base of Carrots For Everyone but am not positive about that. My e-mail is below or you can private message me here. Thanks. Chad cornfedcarp at yahoo.com

Thanks Frikadeller Chad

Where's a good place to go cragging near Arcata? I'm going to be down there with my girlfriend in March. Chad

Short Circuit - Broughton Bluff Pretty much a tall boulder problem but it climbs great. Chad

Both of these climbs get plenty of talk and attention. Chad

Learn something new everyday... Chad

I think the guide book is still being sold at the Portland Rock Gym. Yea, there's a crag nearby, called Beaconzone. Just a little east of Ozone. Other than that, you have Broughtonzone on the other side of the river. Chad p.s. OK, so there's no other crag near Ozone that has 'zone' in it name that I'm aware of. If you want to get together sometime and hit up one of the local spots, send me a PM.

This is exactly what I would do given the situation you described. Chad

Can't decide if you want bacon?: Chad

All carabiners have a part that flexes, I don't see a wiregate carabiner having any durability disadvantage. I have some Hotwire carabiners from the first year of that model's production. They still are snappy. I agree about the Ocham's razor comment; this new carabiner seems to be solving a problem that didn't exist. Chad

Where is this happening and at what time? I wonder if he will sign books brought to the event(?). Chad

I check eBay pretty often, but.....unless the thief sells everything as a lot or in separate listings simultaneously there is not going to be an easy way to identify this gear. Chad

Mtguide and W, thank you very much for the advice. It is greatly appreciated and well taken. I'll go see a doctor. Gym climbing isn't even all that interesting to me, I just wanted to "stay in shape". What a dummy. Mtguide, do you have a recommendation for a Portland area doctor that can deal with this type of issue? Dan, I had some great smoked salmon today. I'll have to make that a regular thing. Thanks again everyone. Chad

I was climbing outside about four days week until it started getting rainy. In October I switched over climbing in the gym quite a bit (often three times a week). My elbows have become increasingly irritated since coming indoors. Usually the day after I climb I feel some mild pain in my elbows. Sometimes the irritation feels like an itch. I don’t feel physically limited by this problem (yet) but it is getting worse. In the last month I’ve slowed down on climbing at the gym. Bouldering and climbing the steep gym overhangs has been cut. I want to get this issue taken care of or at least have a game plan before going into the climbing season. I did some web research as well as reading the applicable sections in Layton’s new book (Climbing Stronger, Faster, Healthier: Beyond the Basics). It seems that I have epicondylitis; Lateral or Medial epicondylitis, I’m not sure which, or if it matters. I’ve put together a little rehab and antagonist workout routine that I hope is appropriate (comments welcome). I have not seen a doctor about this. I have iced my elbows after climbing sessions and have occasionally applied heat to them the follow day. I do not take NSAIDs for the pain because of what I’ve read about their propensity to inhibit tendon recovery. I take Omega 3 pills instead (hoping for a miracle). Before and after climbing I massage my forearms and elbows sporadically. The only good thing I’ve done consistently is staying hydrated, warming up, and stretching a lot before and after climbing. Given the situation and my limited knowledge I have a few questions. 1) What would you add to/change about my workout routine? 2) Is it too early to be working out? Should I wait until I’m pain free? 3) Do I need to stop gym climbing? Lately I’ve been going about twice a week. 4) How important is it to see a doctor about this? I have insurance but am concerned about paying all the out-of-pocket expenses that come with basic insurance. 5) Are there any injections/meds I should me asking a doctor about? Cortisone, steroids? 6) When is it appropriate to ice or apply heat? How often? 7) Is it safe to massage my forearms and elbows while they are hurting? 8) What kind of recovery period am I looking at? Please feel free to comment about any part of this post. I’m particularly interested to hear from those of you who have been through or treated this issue. I’m 31 years old, if that has any bearing on the situation. Thank you. Chad

Very cool. What do the large green dots represent? Chad

Reading this thread got me thinking about a Friend that I removed from Madrone Wall about fourteen years ago. I though I might be able to date it using Wild Country's Friend Age Guide (http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/AboutUs/CustomerServices/FriendAgeGuide/) but there aren't any numbers on the thing except for the patent number. Does this mean that it was made before 1988? Chad

I climbed at Broughton Bluff twice in December. Between my schedule and the rain, that's all I could do. Some faces seem to be dry as soon as it stops raining. Finding a partner that can head out on short notice seems to be the hardest part. Chad

Wow. Is there a limit to the amount of resoles you can get on a shoe if they are taken in at the appropriate time? Chad

I just got my copy today from Amazon. Sadly, some of the route descriptions have been toned down or shortened. I guess that's what you get when you have 1800 route descriptions in a guide book. Anyway, I'm really excited about this edition. Good work Mr. Watts. Chad

Why is it that the "rope must be soaked in water and allowed to dry slowly prior to first use"? Chad

Flashing the first two pitches of Rights of Passage would one of my highlights. Nothing groundbreaking but a fun climbing year for me. Chad

The Ultra is water resistant so it is made to take anything but a prolonged immersion. From the 2009 catalog: These Petzl headlamps withstand the worst weather conditions: high humidity, snow, torrential rain, sudden immersion, etc. Still, $430 is a lot of money. I'd prefer the Ultra Belt which is even more money. Chad

Thanks everyone. I'm glad I asked. Chad

Awesome. When will they be in stores? Chad